D30 passenger seal leak.

[Dan77CJ7]

Here's a pick of my leak. from what i can tell i need an axle shaft seal the one on the thrust washer?? or maybe inner seal? im not really sure? i dont like to tear apart my CJ untell i have a tight grasp. please any pictures or help would be much appreciated. I have FSM but it bounces around on the subject.

 

[lutry]

The only thing I can provide is this (no practical experience in this parts so far):



The only seal is in the red circle (front axle shaft inner oil seal).

Should be part no. 812 1781

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Inner Axle seal.
812 1781
Must remove axles & carrier, knock out seals and use installer to install seals.
If no installer, can use long bar and something the size of seal, and hammer seal in from other side.

 

[Old Dog]

^^ what he said ^^
I use a long 1/2" drive extension and a big socket.
Now would be a good time to change the spindle bearings and seals also.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

thanks guys, that's pretty much what i needed to hear,

To do list:

Pinion seal
inner axle seals
spindle bearings
wheel bearing
180 t-stat
valve cover gasket using Form-A :drool:

what about the thrust washer and the seal it shows? in MY FSM i shows a pic.

 

[Old Dog]

Yes would also change that seal, and anything else I could while I had it all apart.

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Yes get the 4 piece spindle set, bearing, seal, washer & seal. And check all mating surfaces for seal wear, and wheel bearing & hubs.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

1/2" dia. pipe and a lg washer works well for Dana 30 axle seal install.
LG

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Old dog you make a good point, Thinking that the shafts could use a rebuild. spicers? 5-260x? or does anyone know of a better U-joint?

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

You can get some CTR rebuildable.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

**CHEAP LOCKER**


What do you guys thing about the aussie locker? Im going to assume when i pop the diff, a spring from the quick lock should end up in the catch pan.. I need this Dana 30 rebuild to hold me over untell I hunt down the right T-18a....

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Designed by Bill Cole who also made the Chevy Small Block.
All I have heard is good things about it so far, but time will tell.
Not a rebuild a reseal.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Not a rebuild a reseal.

Axle and caliper are being rebuilt... new wheeling bearing,spindle bearing, synergy ball joints new locker(undecided) along with all the seals.... this friend is rebuild in my parts.

Also thinking about hubs.. I have cutlus hubs now, and they work perfect, and i like the vintage look.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Not a rebuild a reseal.

Axle and caliper are being rebuilt... new wheeling bearing,spindle bearings, synergy ball joints new locker(undecided) along with all the seals.... this here friend is rebuild in my parts.

Also thinking about hubs.. I have cutlus hubs(maybe stock???) , and they work perfect, but I havent found any parts or prints on them.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Sure like my Mile Marker hubs with run'n a DL up front.
LG

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Sure like my Mile Marker hubs with run'n a DL up front.
LG

If i could get a No-spin i would LG, But i dont see my self getting Crmo Axles and i hate to bust U-joints, Not that im saying you need Crmo axles, they tend to flex less at the eyelets. "A broken U-joint trail story...." Reason number 4 why I'll only roll on 32s

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Nice,
Stock was a drive flange or Warn. Cutlass is real strong, and easy to turn in & out.