• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

Dana 30 U-Joints (OEM vs. Spicer)

Dana 30 U-Joints (OEM vs. Spicer)

diddy2003

Old Time Jeeper
Posts
1,015
Thanks
10
Location
Western Massachusetts
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ-7
35x12.5x15 MTRs;
YJ 4 inch Skyjacker lift w/ Bilsteins;
rebuilt AMC 360, Patriot Headers, Holley Truck Avenger 670 CFM, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Flexalite Electric Fan; Griffin Aluminum Radiator, Dual Flowmaster Delta Flow 40s;
Dana 30 4.10s w/ Detroit Truetrac;
Dana 60-2 Narrowed, 11 inch Ford Drum Brakes, 4.10s Power-Lok LSD; T-176; Dana 300 LoMax 4:1 Twin-Stick; Navajo Power Brake Booster
I want to replace the U-Joints in my Dana 30 . Ones needs to be replaced, its clunking a little, and the other side just because I figured I should just do both at the same time. It has 4.10s, Detroit Trutrac, and the CJ7 is lifted 4 inches with 33sx12.5s. My question is, would you replace with a stronger U-Joint, and transfer the weak link to somewhere else, or just replace with the cheap OEM unit? I have heard both arguments and was curious to hear your thoughts. :cheers2:

Original Replacement Parts J8136616 - Front Axle 260X Series U-Joint Assembly for 76-86 Jeep® CJ, 87-95 Wrangler YJ & 84-99 Cherokee XJ with Dana 30 Front Axle & without ABS - Quadratec

5100-lg.jpg


Original Replacement Parts 8126637SP - DANA SPICER® 260X Series U-Joint for 76-86 Jeep® CJ, 87-95 Wrangler YJ & 84-99 Cherokee XJ with Dana 30 Front Axle without ABS - Quadratec

27099-lg.jpg
 
I would say it depends on what you do with your Jeep. If it's mostly street and lite trails OEM would be fine but if you do tough trails the stronger the better.
 
I want to replace the U-Joints in my Dana 30 . Ones needs to be replaced, its clunking a little, and the other side just because I figured I should just do both at the same time. It has 4.10s, Detroit Trutrac, and the CJ7 is lifted 4 inches with 33sx12.5s. My question is, would you replace with a stronger U-Joint, and transfer the weak link to somewhere else, or just replace with the cheap OEM unit? I have heard both arguments and was curious to hear your thoughts. :cheers2:

I have that job to do after just finishing refurbish of both driveshafts and Dana 300 . The job was needed because parts of two u-joints rusted out. The Spicer Greaseable 5-153X u-joints have a groove cut in the cup bottom flat surface to enable grease to reach the roller bearings in the cup. If that attention to prolonging useable life follows into the production of joints for the Dana 30 , I will stick with them.
 
I would, and just did, use the spicers (or their rebranded NAPA version) for the u-joints at the wheels. This is at a place you don't want to keep tearing apart to replace. These are the 260's I believe. The 153's are for the driveshaft and that's where I want my weak link to be. So if you want to get a cheaper quality u-joint, put it there, it's much easier to fix, at home or in the field.
 
ALWAYS use Spicer U-joints. :cool:
 
Never dealt with them or have any knowledge of anyone who has, but man, that price is cheap!! the wanted about $50 at Qtec and I think $37 at 4WDInc. If you order, let us know how it went and if there are any quality issues.
 
You might want to check around local, that's about the same price I pay at the driveshaft shop here in town.
 
Thanks fellas. Looks like I will be going with Spicer. Is there anything that should be replaced when doing the job, like wear items, or should I be all set? I've never done it before. Thanks.
 
You might want to check around local, that's about the same price I pay at the driveshaft shop here in town.


I probably should have. I have been studying for a promotional exam and during a quick break I ordered them up today. See how it turns out.

Found this:
Now through October 31st get 10% of any order of $100 or more!! Simply put DTA10 in the coupon code at checkout

I wasn't spending more than 100 bucks though. :cool:
 
Thanks fellas. Looks like I will be going with Spicer. Is there anything that should be replaced when doing the job, like wear items, or should I be all set? I've never done it before. Thanks.
It depends on what you find really, and also how much of a pain you consider it to be to pull the hubs. You could get a spindle bearing rebuild kit for cheap (+/-$14)(#BK1 @ napa) which has the new seals and dust shield also. And if your wheel bearing are worn now is the time to replace those (use Timken #SET45 & SET47; inner & outer, for about $13ea @ partsgeek.com). But at the minimum, at least clean out the old grease and pack in some new. The more space used by grease the less space to allow water to fill in.
 
^^I agree^^, now is a good time to change the spindle bearinga and seals and anything else that need replacing.
 
It depends on what you find really, and also how much of a pain you consider it to be to pull the hubs. You could get a spindle bearing rebuild kit for cheap (+/-$14)(#BK1 @ napa) which has the new seals and dust shield also. And if your wheel bearing are worn now is the time to replace those (use Timken #SET45 & SET47; inner & outer, for about $13ea @ partsgeek.com). But at the minimum, at least clean out the old grease and pack in some new. The more space used by grease the less space to allow water to fill in.


Thanks man. Do you mind providing a link to the exact stuff I will need? I was looking for the spindle bearing rebuild kit and thousands of stuff popped up on the drivetrain america website. THANKS!! :chug:
 
Yes, those look correct. It's just showing multiple vehicles it fits. You need 2 each of the SET45 & SET47 I believe the 45 is the outer, the 47 is the inner, but double check that. They have a Timken kit on there, not sure if it has the dust shield or not, like the SKF kit from NAPA does.
84 1984 Jeep CJ7 Spindle Bearing and Seal Kit - Driveshaft & Axle - Timken, Front - PartsGeek

Here's the one from NAPA. part #BK1. They show theirs as $22 but I was thinking I just paid $18 there 4 weeks ago.
NAPA AUTO PARTS
 
So do you think that I should go with the Timken kit or the Napa? The napa is more it seems, but they don't have a price on the website. I guess I could just call tomorrow. But, would you go Timken or Napa? I don't think it really matters, but I figured I would ask because the Napa kit appears to be more complete, if that makes any sense. I guess I will also need two of these kits as well. Thanks.:chug:
 
Yes, you will need one kit for each side. The piece that seems to be missing, based on the pic (which you can't always trust to be accurate on the internet sites), is the dust/rock shield and if yours is good then you really won't need it anyways. But then it could be included and just not shown. I'd grab the Timken kit from parts geek since your already placing an order there and I think it may have been a $7.95 flat shipping rate so you won't have additional shipping or tax (unless their from your state)

The NAPA kit is from SKF which I've been told is of equal quality when it comes to bearings. I've used their seals before when I can't find National brand and they also seem to be fine.
 
Yes, you will need one kit for each side. The piece that seems to be missing, based on the pic (which you can't always trust to be accurate on the internet sites), is the dust/rock shield and if yours is good then you really won't need it anyways. But then it could be included and just not shown. I'd grab the Timken kit from parts geek since your already placing an order there and I think it may have been a $7.95 flat shipping rate so you won't have additional shipping or tax (unless their from your state)

The NAPA kit is from SKF which I've been told is of equal quality when it comes to bearings. I've used their seals before when I can't find National brand and they also seem to be fine.

Thanks. I was just wondering where the price difference between the Timken and Napa. I assumed that the difference was exactly what you had mentioned. Timken seems like a good quality brand. I will order up two sets of everything and then install when I get a chance. Thanks :chug:
 
Your welcome. Glad I could help.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$40.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  20.0%
Back
Top Bottom