Dana 300

[AOrangeWIP]

I currently have the QuadraTrac setup in my jeep, but I am planning on going with Dana 44 front and rear axles and SOA lift eventually. I have done enough reading to know that it is going to be a pain to swap axles with my current setup since the quadra trac is offset in the rear. My jeep is factory automatic, and I would like to keep it that way if at all possible, but I do want to change out the Transfer Case . Is it possible to put a Dana 300 or any other good gear driven Transfer Case in with the GM Turbo 400 auto tranny? I am new to the jeep world, but I am really enjoying my jeep so far, so excuse me if I am asking dumb questions. So far the only thing I've done to my jeep is the entire brake system and a little bit of suspension work.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Welcome to Jeeps.

I'll sneak it out there before some one else does, there's a search function in the tool bar. I'm sure if you type in Dana 20 GM Turbo 400 you will get some input. Also don't be afraid to use google the same way. Alot of folks don't like answering questions over and over.. I'm not one of them.

Im pretty sure that the Dana 300 will not bolt up to the 400 with out some adapters and changing output shafts.

If your adding this to your 78 in your profile then the answer should be that you can bolt the Dana 20 right up. Notice the should part. I've never done this but GM Turbo 400 's came from the factory with Dana 20 bolted up. The only thing you may have to worry about is the bull gear. They are a pretty strong T/C.. they came in FSJ running 360's.

Here's a link to Novak adapters
The Dana Spicer Model 20 Transfer Case - Novak Conversions

Beside trying to sell their adapter's they have alot of good info on motor/Transmission /transfer cases capability. Keep in mind you may also have to Change or lengthen you drive shafts. Hope that was a little helpful.

 

[Old Dog]

As jimbo said check out novak or advance adapters, I think you will need an adapter for the 300.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

As jimbo said check out novak or advance adapters, I think you will need an adapter for the 300.

I must have been editing my post when you posted about the adapter.. Novaks Dana 300 adapter is close to $600 shipped.. I would just run a 20.

 

[Petescj]

From what I saw on Novaks site you also need an adapter for the Dana 20 that comes in at $550 before shipping. Adapting the TH400 Transmission to Dana 18 & 20 Transfer Cases. I also think that while the Dana 20 is a strong Transfer Case I prefer the lower gearing of the Dana 300 .

You already know you'll need to swap out your offset AMC20 . In my opinion your best bet is to look for a 80s Tf 999. If you have the room Id look for a rusted out parts Jeep with the right driveline. That way you have all the little b.s. stuff you'll need as well. Sourcing all the parts seperately is doable but would most likely raise the cost along with being a p.i.t.a.

I bought my Parts jeep for $400. It was a friendly deal from a guy in my Jeep club that needed to thin the herd a bit. Even at $700 youd have the correct rear,skidplate,Dana 300 ,rear driveshaft,Transmission ,coolant lines...

Heres whats goin in my Scrambler one day.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Sorry.. Ive seen to many transmissions.. your right.. to swap a Dana 20 onto the CJ GM Turbo 400 you need the adapter. if you were working with one from a FSJ you are golden.. If you were able to get a GM Turbo 400 and Dana 20 from a FSJ im pretty sure you can swap the tail shaft and adapter plate to make em work. you can also mount a dan 300 to a 727 auto also.

 

[AOrangeWIP]

So if I'm understanding this correctly, it would probably be much easier and cheaper to just ditch the auto and quadra trac setup all together and find an entirely new drivetrain in a parts jeep or something?

Or should I just leave my current setup and do a one piece axle conversion on my AMC20 and SOA lift? The only problem I have with doing SOA to my current setup is that I have narrow track axles and I'm worried that the narrow track axles with SOA would make the jeep very top heavy and or roll over risky. Is there anyway to make the narrow track axles more stable when used in a SOA lift?

In your opinion which of these options would be the cheapest/newby friendly?

I am a pretty decent mechanic, so the wrenching/removing and rebuilding of parts isn't that big of deal. I'm just having trouble finding out which of the many Jeep drivline setups would be the best for me. There are so many different setups and it is kind of overbearing trying to figure out which one is the correct one.

Again I'm sorry for all the questions and I did search the forum first, but could't really find anything that was specific to my question. Like I said this is my first CJ and i'm very new to them.

 

[Old Dog]

IMHO since we are going to be spending big bucks on Dana 44 's all around with a SOA the price of an adapter is a drop in the bucket. I'd go with a TH350 or TF727 with the GM Turbo 400 comming in 3rd, all are stronger than a TF999 .
If I may ask what kinda wheeling are you planning on?

 

[Petescj]

If I may ask what kinda wheeling are you planning on?

Answering this will definately be helpful. The set up I mentioned is all just bolt in , no adapters required. Its probably going to be the cheapest way also. The TF999 isnt a bad tranny but as Old Dog said there are stronger units out there.

When you mention "cheap" and s.o.a. that kinda throws up a red flag as well. A proper s.o.a. isnt as cheap as people like to believe. You may be better off with some 4 in. lift springs , or a smaller lift and body trimming. what are you looking for??

 

[Old Dog]

I'm worried that the narrow track axles with SOA would make the jeep very top heavy and or roll over risky. Is there anyway to make the narrow track axles more stable when used in a SOA lift?

You should be worried with NT's. If you want SOA find an older chevy that already has high steer knuckles and cut it to the width you want. I'd go somewhere around 60" at least. If your lucky the rear will also be a 44 and you can cut it to match.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Im a big fan of swapping drive train into CJs. For $1000. I was able to find a wagoneer with 360 727, 44 front and rear, 4:88 gears, lockers,hydro assist steering on newer 37's. Ill be adding my Dana 300 to it. Imay have gotten a little lucky on that. you should beable to to find old rotted waggies with 44 front and rear all day for 500-1000. swap the complete drive train. the front will need to be outboarded but it will also upgrade your front springs to 2.5" instead of the 2 inch the CJ's come with. It may be a bit more then your looking for but its an option. waggy axles are 4 inches wider then stock CJ wide tracks.

I would also go with a good quality spring lift before I dump money int oa SOA>

 

[Petescj]

Im a big fan of swapping drive train into CJs. For $1000. I was able to find a wagoneer with 360 727, 44 front and rear, 4:88 gears, lockers,hydro assist steering on newer 37's. Ill be adding my Dana 300 to it. Imay have gotten a little lucky on that. you should beable to to find old rotted waggies with 44 front and rear all day for 500-1000. swap the complete drive train. the front will need to be outboarded but it will also upgrade your front springs to 2.5" instead of the 2 inch the CJ's come with. It may be a bit more then your looking for but its an option. waggy axles are 4 inches wider then stock CJ wide tracks.

I would also go with a good quality spring lift before I dump money int oa SOA>

I have a hard time arguing with this for sure. The biggest problem with this I highlighted in red. I love the drivetrain you mentioned but it does cost him some bucks to narrow the axles and get the correct length driveshafts.

One other thing on the rotted out Waggies. Many times people do alot of cheap fixes to the rusted clunkers until KABOOM a Transmission ,Transfer Case , or engine lets loose finally sending the previous owner over the edge. Check everything as thoroughly as you can before grabbing a great deal.

Search search and research also , deals like Jimbos76cj are out there, its just up to you to find them First.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

For the amount of trouble it takes to cut down an axle I just out board them. I think help with body roll also. I've got less then $200 tied up into the out board job I'm doing now. Waggy's come with double cardans front and rear so I would just cut them down

We can all throw our opinions at the original poster but the truth is he didn't really say what his final plans are for his jeep. Daily driver? Mud slinger? Rock crawler?? All of that needs to be taken in when it comes to building some thing up. I think the best non opinionated advice I can try to give any one that plans on getting a jeep is plan your build.. Sit down and draw up an outline of what you want in the end.. Motor, Transmission , axles, etc,etc, I've spent a ton on cash swapping axles trying to get stronger as I went along instead of just going for the 1tons in the beginning. Try to do it once..

And if it makes my score any better it came with a 12k winch,00 battery cable from front to back, the 10cfm York, electric pusher fan, and a bunch of high power electrical fuses, relays, and bus bars.


It had no title and the frame was rotted and cracked.. But it started right up.

 

[Petescj]

Sit down and draw up an outline of what you want in the end.. Motor, Transmission , axles, etc,etc, I've spent a ton on cash swapping axles trying to get stronger as I went along instead of just going for the 1tons in the beginning. Try to do it once..

Preach on!! Its the smartest way to go overall , yet so few of us do it.

 

[Petescj]

And if it makes my score any better it came with a 12k winch,00 battery cable from front to back, the 10cfm York, electric pusher fan, and a bunch of high power electrical fuses, relays, and bus bars.

Now your just bragging

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Now your just bragging

I know.. I can't help myself. A friend grabbed 2 for $1000 one had the 36O/727/208 and the other had 360/400/20.. Both had 44's front and rear and they both ran good.

 

[AOrangeWIP]

Well there will definitely be no cutting of the tub whatsoever unless its flat fendering. My Jeep has the original steel tub and it is in great shape with a perfect paintjob. This will be an ongoing project for me, but I do have a picture in my head of what I want it to look like when I'm done. Right now it looks like a pavement queen and I hate that. I will be doing some moderate to heave wheeling in it, but I also want it to be roadworthy enough to drive a decent distance on the pavement. I would like to get hold of all my components first and rebuild/modify them before anything goes on the Jeep. The engine is not going anywhere because of a recent rebuild. I cant justify swapping engines when the one in it has no problems.

That being said we are talking from the flywheel of the AMC 360 back. I want it to keep fairly stock characteristics, but be able to climb a tree if the occasion arrises. I can't stand the axles that stick out way past the fender wells so I want something that will be wider but not too wide. I would also really like to go with SOA for articulation reasons instead of spring lift.

I was a diesel nut before it got too expensive to have one so I switched over to Jeeps mainly because I have always wanted one. Like I said before Im a decent fabricator, and I know I can do this I just don't have the mix and match knowledge that you guys have when it comes to Jeeps.

Money isn't a huge deal, but I don't want to blow a bunch of it buying trannys, t-cases and axles that wont fit together.

Great responses so far guys. I'm already loving this site. Now that you know what kind of looks and off road capabilities I am going for what would be the best option?

 

[Jimbos76cj]

If I had you rig this is what I would do with your plans in mind

#1-27/300. the 727 is a really strong Transmission and if you were to build one once it should last you a long time. You already wan a 300 and the bolt right up with only a little fuss.

#2- if you plan on going with 44's in the future I wouldn't spend my money polishing the 20 unless you get a great deal on one peice axles. I would keep it to buy and build a set of 44's. The problem is (at least in Florida) it very hard to find CJ width 44's. You would have to cut down waggy axles. That's where the out boarding come in to play. You don't have to cut the body or frame but build hangers to move the mounts to the out side. If you cut down waggy axles and you brake a shaft you now have to pay to cut down another. If you leave it the regular length you can find the shafts all day in jy so replacements are cheap and easy.

#3-SOA.. I'm not a fan. Every one does it because they think it's quick cheap and easy... Which it is until you have to deal with axle wrap and spend a couple hundred on anti wrap bar for the rear axle. Then you steering linkage is going to hit the springs so you will try the cheap fix and put a few bends in the rod that hooks the pitman arm to the pass side knuckle but that will cause some horrible bump steer. Since she wille be a road queen also you won't like the steering then drop another 3-500 on high steer. So in the end you looking at 300 for the initial SOA, 200-300 for the anti wrap bar and 3-500 for the high steer so your into it for a grand with out labor and little parts like seals and bearings to replace. You can pick up a good quality nice riding SUA lift for less then that and in my opinion it will ride better then the SOA. I've never heard of a SOA articulating better the spring under.

Like I said.. That my opinion and would be.. And is my plan for mine.

 

[1986cj7]

I currently have the QuadraTrac setup in my jeep, but I am planning on going with Dana 44 front and rear axles and SOA lift eventually. I have done enough reading to know that it is going to be a pain to swap axles with my current setup since the quadra trac is offset in the rear. My jeep is factory automatic, and I would like to keep it that way if at all possible, but I do want to change out the Transfer Case . Is it possible to put a Dana 300 or any other good gear driven Transfer Case in with the GM Turbo 400 auto tranny? I am new to the jeep world, but I am really enjoying my jeep so far, so excuse me if I am asking dumb questions. So far the only thing I've done to my jeep is the entire brake system and a little bit of suspension work.

MY grandpa told me the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask about, these are the ones that get you into trouble.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Collecting, repairing and modifying every thing before your ready to start is the best way to keep it on the road. Normally some one rips out their axles to swap em with out doing all the checking and fixing first so it sit on jack stands for a few weeks, then they run out of money and it sits for a few more weeks then they ge angry because it's now becoming a project and after 6-12 months on stand they get tired of looking at it and sell it off as a project... And I buy it.