Dana 44 swap?

Dana 44 swap?

BurntMoney

Jeeper
Posts
50
Thanks
0
Location
Memphis
Vehicle(s)
84 CJ7 4.2 engine
Im running 33's Im considering buying a set of Dana 44's from a 76 wagoneer to put under a 84 CJ7 with a AMC20 rear and I think Dana 30 front. The Dana 44 has a passenger side drop. What if any mods will need to be done to the cj to accept the Dana 44?

Only reason Im looking at this swap is Ive had to have the same rear passenger wheel seals changed at a shop 2 times now and they keep leaking after a few hrs of playing and not even really that rough on it. Ran a little dry last weekend. Could hear some noise from it and it was sizzleing water hot along with burnt smell. It has the flanged one piece axle shafts already in the rear. Any thoughts as to why it could keep developing this leak. I have seen these axles really flex more than once. Installer error twice? Faulty part twice? Other damage to the axle from flexing? Any thoughts here are appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like something is out of line. The axle tubes on the AMC20 are not fastened well and could have become slightly angled into the center section. Are the bearings showing any wear? Were they omix-ada brand 1 pc. axles you put in by chance? Do you have an axle shop or machine shop who deals with axles near you by chance? They could check it for mis-alignment.
 
Yep, that's possible too. But I would think the force to bend a tube would be enough to alter the slip fit to the pumpkin first. Either way though the axle / machine shop should be able to tell.
 
Im running 33's Im considering buying a set of Dana 44's from a 76 wagoneer to put under a 84 CJ7 with a AMC20 rear and I think Dana 30 front. The Dana 44 has a passenger side drop. What if any mods will need to be done to the cj to accept the Dana 44?

Only reason Im looking at this swap is Ive had to have the same rear passenger wheel seals changed at a shop 2 times now and they keep leaking after a few hrs of playing and not even really that rough on it. Ran a little dry last weekend. Could hear some noise from it and it was sizzleing water hot along with burnt smell. It has the flanged one piece axle shafts already in the rear. Any thoughts as to why it could keep developing this leak. I have seen these axles really flex more than once. Installer error twice? Faulty part twice? Other damage to the axle from flexing? Any thoughts here are appreciated.


Your seal problem is fairly common for the AMC20 rear. It is not the install it is the weakness of the design that is allowing this and it will only get worse. Ever notice how once you bend something it bends easier along the same path afterwards? It is an example of one reason many people who wheel frequently or hard modify or replace that axle. Many people who think their AMC20's are "just fine" would be surprised at what they would find with a careful inspection and measurements. Those who think you have to "jump" the jeep or something like that to bust up an AMC20 rear are not being realistic about how easily they get messed up. Frankly, in many folks' opinion, a L/P Dana 30 with 260 joints isn't that great of a set-up for off-roading, either, and you are at the ragged edge of its abilities. The later HP Dana 30's with 297 joints are noticeably stronger but their rep does not apply the the CJ unit. Dana 44's front and rear will be a solid upgrades over what you have and the locker availability, for just one example of the additional benefits of the swap, will be increased as well. Swapping in at least 1/2 ton rated axles like Dana 44's for the quarter ton factory CJ axles has been popular for decades for a reason.
 
which seal keeps going out, the inner or the outer or both?
If the bearing is getting hot enough to boil water as you say
the heat could be destroying the seals.
Is your preload set correctly? Are you packing the bearing before you install it?

As for the 44's you will need to outboard the springs (if you run them full width) or cut the long side.
as for the rear just reweld the spring pearches.
 
Geat answers, very thoughtful from everyone!! I took it apart again today and the new bearing (maybe 3 hrs run time) had just come to pieces, the retainer ring was broken and one of the rollers from the bearing had punctured the outer seal, could have been what happened to the inner seal as well though mot as obvious. The gear oil must get past both seals in order to run out.It has the aftermarket one piece axle and flange, not sure of the brand of the axles or of the bearing brand the shop put in. I do know they usually get their parts from Napa. Im not sure what "Preload" is sorry my noobness is showing:).The shop said the parts that the book called for(Bearing race seal kit) would not fit correctly. I will also be measuring to replace the bearing and seals myself this time.Im also going to check for slack and take some measurements tomorrow(axle angles) and hope that the simple solution like something being out of line will be the issue. This jeep is "New to Me" so really could be anything.

Doesnt sound too hard to install the Dana 44 if it isnt being cut down but to cut it may be beyond my skill and equipment level. I had just seen a set on craigslist for 300 and considering it. I had heard about an 8.8 AMC20 swap to run with with a Dana 30 in front and I do have a 98 explorer with 8.8 in it but it is 3.55 gears and my AMC20 is 3.13 Im no expert but Im guessing the gears have to be identical to work right.
 
Last edited:
"The shop said the parts that the book called for(Bearing race seal kit) would not fit correctly."
That's a bit scary there. What book were they looking at, because this is a fairly common issue that many folks remedy with not too much trouble. If your getting new parts, make sure the bearing are Timken brand and the seals are National brand. this is typically what napa usually sells but you could just verify they are. I've also heard of some sub par 1 pc axles coming from omix-ada so while your checking measurements you might want to check those.
 
another option for a rear axle is a Dana 44 from a early to mid 90's isuzu rodeo. same bolt pattern as a front waggy Dana 44 and it has disc brakes. it's worth reading up on this option. i have a waggy AMC20 rear i was going to put in my CJ but found a isuzu Dana 44 for $100. so now i can't decide what to go with. good luck with whatever you choose. personally i have not had a problem with my CJ AMC20 and i run 36's but like other people say on here, it's just a matter of time.

yours truly.

Steve.
 
Im not sure what "Preload" is sorry my noobness is showing:).The shop said the parts that the book called for(Bearing race seal kit) would not fit correctly. I will also be measuring to replace the bearing and seals myself this time.

Preload is the amount that the bearing sticks out of the axle housing, if you go the the superior axle web site they have instructions on how to install them.
The reason the shop probally said they would not fix right is the one piece takes a special bearing retainer that is narrower than the stock retainer.
 
Preload is the amount that the bearing sticks out of the axle housing, if you go the the superior axle web site they have instructions on how to install them.
The reason the shop probally said they would not fix right is the one piece takes a special bearing retainer that is narrower than the stock retainer.
I feel a little clarification could help here, preload is a force that is applied to bearing in a free state. It is the amount of force that is needed to be applied to something for a specific requirement.

Example, your pinion bearing requires a ten inch pound load while turning the pinion shaft. The shim would be adjusted to accomadate that load.

Axle bearings require the same adjustment but the tolerance is usually much greater and don't usually need such precision.

Just want to make sure that it's clear that it isn't always sp easy... :)
 
Example, your pinion bearing requires a ten inch pound load while turning the pinion shaft. The shim would be adjusted to accomadate that :)

The correct pinion preload for a AMC20 is 15-25 in-lbf. Not a load but torque. A load is only a lbf.

The axles have .004- .008" end play, not preload. (all data is for AMC20)/
 
Last edited:

Having just gone through and still sorting out a few little things I would go waggy front and rear and keep the 6 stud

I went to the hassel of scout rear and waggy front with CJ outer knuckles brakes etc all to keep 5 on 5.5 and next time I would sell my wheels and buy new ones :chug:
 
OK so I worked out what the 20 yr experiaced mechanic did wrong - twice. He used the SKF brand bearings for a stock AMC20 axle instead of the set 9 timken brand bearings. He also did not shave the spacer to get the correct preload on the bearing. I guess it goes to show if you want something done right on a jeep, consult your friends on "jeep-cj .com " and then do it yourself :) Thanks to all who replied to this thread.
 
Glad to hear you figured it out.:chug:
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$110.00
This donation drive ends in
Back
Top Bottom
AdBlock Detected

I get it, I'm a Jeep owner and ad-block detectors kinda stink but ads are needed on this site. This is a CJ site, all the ads are set for autos (some times others get through.) I cannot make them just for Jeeps but I try.

Please allow ads as they help keep this site running by offsetting the costs of software and server fees.
Clicking on No Thanks will temporarily disable this message.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks