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It seems to me we don't spend so much time fixing broken things as we do trying to prevent it from breaking. It also occurs to me than there is a difference between some thing that is broken and something that is worn out.
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
I have found my CJ to be like my old Shovelhead Harley.Old and always in need of TLC and upgrades.
We expect it and LOVE doing it.That is why we own old toys
Heck, even parking it wears stuff out on mine.
It seems that every time i drive my CJ something new pops up that need attention. I'll fix it when it breaks.
1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, Super Lift Springs and 33s, a 1997 BMW 328i, and a 2010 REDLINE CONQUEST TEAM Cyclocross Bike. :)
Words to the wise. My CJ5 is very reliable and I basically just tune it up once in a while. I have a glass tub, small block chevy, T-18 , Dana 20 , stock model axles but very built. Everything is just solid and reliable.
1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, Super Lift Springs and 33s, a 1997 BMW 328i, and a 2010 REDLINE CONQUEST TEAM Cyclocross Bike. :)
Words to the wise. My CJ5 is very reliable and I basically just tune it up once in a while. I have a glass tub, small block chevy, T-18 , Dana 20 , stock model axles but very built. Everything is just solid and reliable.
That's right! Ya can't beat simple. I'm running a T-18 /Dana 20 combo which is way stronger than it needs to be to handle my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . The only weak link mine has is the AMC20 rear axle, and I plan to beef that up with 1 piece axles and have the tubes welded. It should be pretty much bullet proof then for the demands I place on it.
1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, Super Lift Springs and 33s, a 1997 BMW 328i, and a 2010 REDLINE CONQUEST TEAM Cyclocross Bike. :)
The way I see it, with an over kill Transmission , new axle bearings, a one wire distributor, a super simple carb, new crank and rod bearings, and decent oil pressure, I won't be getting stranded any time soon.
If I have a flat, I'll put on the spare tire. If my distributor stops making spark, I'll swap out the module or coil for spares that I plan to keep in my tool box. There's not a lot of things that can go wrong to keep me from driving it home under normal driving conditions. I'd drive it to California tomorrow and not give reliabillity a second thought. If I'd gone with fuel injection, I would have a maze of wires, a computer, and an electric fuel pump that could give me problems at any given time without warning. I love my setup, it runs great, and I trust it.
1978 CJ7
Silver paint with black hard top on 33" radials & eagle alumium rims. Good looking ride and have done lots of work to make it look and run great.
Stock equipment is 258 carb, power brakes, power steering, hard top & hard doors (per vehicle gross weight) tilt steering wheel, big brake package with large rotars & drums, T18 Trans with low 6.4 granny gear, Dana 20 transfer, Dana 30 front axle, Dana 44HD rear axle with 3.73 gears. True Trac ft & rear.
I was around jeeps in the 70's and drove a 1973 Jeep Truck. My family had 4 jeeps at the time. We also joined a jeep club back then too. So about 6 years ago looked for a Jeep CJ and found the vehicle above.
I tried that park it... it will not break.....
The E brake kept poping up, I push with foot and would go back down and few seconds later it poped back up. Kinda like a little kid NO I want to go!
I recut the teeth 2-3 times and better but would still pop. Got one from local jeeper that had some nice parts... works great now.
I guess replace and upgrade till its new... is the only path to reliability. The CJs are 33 yr old or so.
AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , stock T-18 , stock axles with big brake packages front/rear, power bakes / steering, tilt wheel. Thats pretty decked out for CJ equipment... all stock and the hard top too....Added: Borla Header, jeep alum intake, Weber, MSD Ignition, TeamRush Upgrade & Fixes. Jeep Dana 44 Axle going in the rear.
So Far more work fixing than hours wheeling. The nice spots to wheel here need 1-2 lockers. So to make it need to horse / force more than I would like to ... but it made it.
I have driven 4 hrs into Iowa then back with a trailer and not a single hick up.
Drove 5 hrs up north, wheeled at Gilbert 4 days all day, 5 hrs back work flawless. A friend in his 4 cy fuel injected jeep use 1 less gallon than I did on the way up. He was impressed a 30 yr old CJ could work well and not break.
I did collasp my rusty spring perches on the back AMC20 axle some. I guess even the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l can put some torque out back there. Will be replaced with the Dana 44 new perches in a few wks.
This summer will take a trip out west central US or to east coast and maybe second trip to U P MI. These are 1000 mile trips one way.... so I guess I trust my set up. When I purchased my CJ from Sioux Falls SD it ran out of gas twice on trip to Twin Cities.... that was 8-9 mpg. It now get 23/24 mpg hwy if I am careful with the skinny pedal and drive like the vac gauge is hooked up.
I drove a 1973 Jeep Truck for 5 years or so. Never broke... great truck. I bent the tie rod when stock in ditch once... other than that never broke and never stranded me. So new it could be done... it got 23 mpg hwy
Rescue... I have a 3.54 AMC20 , new moser axles, new bearings & seals, new brake drums and shoes. I was going to use and purchased complete. I am going with 3.73 gears so its for sale..... would like to get $ the axles are $250, brake parts $100. So for all at $ good deal. New parts... there is no rust , dirt, or discoloration on the brakes parts or moser axle flanges exposed.
see classified here on forum http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/classifieds/viewad-224
1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, Super Lift Springs and 33s, a 1997 BMW 328i, and a 2010 REDLINE CONQUEST TEAM Cyclocross Bike. :)
I tried that park it... it will not break.....
The E brake kept poping up, I push with foot and would go back down and few seconds later it poped back up. Kinda like a little kid NO I want to go!
I recut the teeth 2-3 times and better but would still pop. Got one from local jeeper that had some nice parts... works great now.
I guess replace and upgrade till its new... is the only path to reliability. The CJs are 33 yr old or so.
AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , stock T-18 , stock axles with big brake packages front/rear, power bakes / steering, tilt wheel. Thats pretty decked out for CJ equipment... all stock and the hard top too....Added: Borla Header, jeep alum intake, Weber, MSD Ignition, TeamRush Upgrade & Fixes. Jeep Dana 44 Axle going in the rear.
So Far more work fixing than hours wheeling. The nice spots to wheel here need 1-2 lockers. So to make it need to horse / force more than I would like to ... but it made it.
I have driven 4 hrs into Iowa then back with a trailer and not a single hick up.
Drove 5 hrs up north, wheeled at Gilbert 4 days all day, 5 hrs back work flawless. A friend in his 4 cy fuel injected jeep use 1 less gallon than I did on the way up. He was impressed a 30 yr old CJ could work well and not break.
I did collasp my rusty spring perches on the back AMC20 axle some. I guess even the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l can put some torque out back there. Will be replaced with the Dana 44 new perches in a few wks.
This summer will take a trip out west central US or to east coast and maybe second trip to U P MI. These are 1000 mile trips one way.... so I guess I trust my set up. When I purchased my CJ from Sioux Falls SD it ran out of gas twice on trip to Twin Cities.... that was 8-9 mpg. It now get 23/24 mpg hwy if I am careful with the skinny pedal and drive like the vac gauge is hooked up.
I drove a 1973 Jeep Truck for 5 years or so. Never broke... great truck. I bent the tie rod when stock in ditch once... other than that never broke and never stranded me. So new it could be done... it got 23 mpg hwy
Rescue... I have a 3.54 AMC20 , new moser axles, new bearings & seals, new brake drums and shoes. I was going to use and purchased complete. I am going with 3.73 gears so its for sale..... would like to get $ the axles are $250, brake parts $100. So for all at $ good deal. New parts... there is no rust , dirt, or discoloration on the brakes parts or moser axle flanges exposed.
That's not a bad deal at all. I already have new brakes, seals and everything else besides the axles though. An Minnesotta is a really long way to drive to pick one up.
1978 CJ7
Silver paint with black hard top on 33" radials & eagle alumium rims. Good looking ride and have done lots of work to make it look and run great.
Stock equipment is 258 carb, power brakes, power steering, hard top & hard doors (per vehicle gross weight) tilt steering wheel, big brake package with large rotars & drums, T18 Trans with low 6.4 granny gear, Dana 20 transfer, Dana 30 front axle, Dana 44HD rear axle with 3.73 gears. True Trac ft & rear.
I was around jeeps in the 70's and drove a 1973 Jeep Truck. My family had 4 jeeps at the time. We also joined a jeep club back then too. So about 6 years ago looked for a Jeep CJ and found the vehicle above.
Yes it is long way... midstates are big.
I was in NE a few wks ago.
Thats why they make pallets, ship would be cheaper than gas..
I have a T-18 /Dana 20 and the AMC with solid moser axles... going to put on ebay shortly... could update someone to the point... will not break this most likely.
I have everything break before it has a chance to wear out... i have tried parking it but things just quit working instead of breaking when i park it. Dont get me wrong i love working on the ole cj but sometimes i just want to ride dirt roads for hours and not have to carry parts with me lol
The other day i had to replace my ignition coil to go ride well i was going down the road not far from my house and heard a loud pop so i pulled over to advanced autoparts and my ignition coil EXPLODED.. never heard of such a thing. well i cleaned up oil off of everything and trashed the busted open ignition coil and checked all my wiring and all was good so i got a new ignition coil under warranty and so i was putting along again then she started to run kinda hot so i pulled into autozone and i didnt have any pressure in my radiator hoses so i had to replace my radiator cap and so i got back on the road and decided to just head home.... well she is was running much cooler but still not right so im going to replace the thermostat now and pray its not the new water pump thats going wrong. well on the way to the jeep place to pick up a few desired parts and a thermostat i got in a wreck and totaled my tahoe... all is well now but that was a terrible day.
Yes it is long way... midstates are big.
I was in NE a few wks ago.
Thats why they make pallets, ship would be cheaper than gas..
I have a T-18 /Dana 20 and the AMC with solid moser axles... going to put on ebay shortly... could update someone to the point... will not break this most likely.
1978 CJ7
Silver paint with black hard top on 33" radials & eagle alumium rims. Good looking ride and have done lots of work to make it look and run great.
Stock equipment is 258 carb, power brakes, power steering, hard top & hard doors (per vehicle gross weight) tilt steering wheel, big brake package with large rotars & drums, T18 Trans with low 6.4 granny gear, Dana 20 transfer, Dana 30 front axle, Dana 44HD rear axle with 3.73 gears. True Trac ft & rear.
I was around jeeps in the 70's and drove a 1973 Jeep Truck. My family had 4 jeeps at the time. We also joined a jeep club back then too. So about 6 years ago looked for a Jeep CJ and found the vehicle above.
This is a CJ5T-18Transmission , square top cover & short input shaft. Still attached with the Dana 20Transfer Case . These are not easy to get the real CJ ones.
$ .............for the CJ T-18 & Transfer Case
............... for axle, AMC20 3.54 gears, new mosers $, Newdrums & Shoes $, new seals & bearings
Total..... for $25 get a pallet, will put on pallet, strap down, and deliver to trucking location here in metro. They charge too much to pick up or pallet it. I have gotten pretty good ship rates in past... usually about half what other guys come to me with their quote. These are heavy... est $500 or so to the terminal and pick up there with you truck and they put on with a fork lift.
On ebay.... the T-18 CJ Combo could go for $1000 to 1200 alone. Saves a guy lots of work not to change the input shaft and a few internal gears. That change is $450 parts or so, and if the adapter is needed for the non jeep CJ version the adapters are $475 new...
