Drilling Bolts

[C dubya]

Bullseye mentioned this in my build thread but I had not recieved a response so I will put it here. He stated that he had drilled out his stuck roll bar bolts. I don't quite under stand the process and was wondering if anyone could shed some light on the how-to. I mean, oversized or under. Do you hollow it out then beat out the leavings? Thanks in advance.

 

[PaRenegade]

He probably drilled thru with a smaller bit and used an eze-out (bolt extractor). Or possibly followed the smaller hole with an equal sized drill.

 

[C dubya]

I guess I will have to read up on an ez out. Seems to me the bolts are frozen, I don't understand how that would make them turn.

 

[tarry99]

I guess I will have to read up on an ez out. Seems to me the bolts are frozen, I don't understand how that would make them turn.

The Easy out when trying to remove it bites into the metal of the bolt in the reverse direction aiding in the removal.

Drilling a hole in the center of the bolt, and will just say half the diameter of the shaft.........relieves the static pressure built up against the walls of the thread.........sometimes just drilling the hole and then putting a wrench back on it is all that's needed to remove it............of course the bolt is now junk................If your going to drill make sure you get a nice center punch mark in the center and start small and progressively work your way up. Also make sure your drilling straight.
Pay attention if this is a blind hole so that you do not damage anything at the bottom.

A picture would be great to see what your doing.

 

[mtnwhlr]

The Easy out when trying to remove it bites into the metal of the bolt in the reverse direction aiding in the removal.

Drilling a hole in the center of the bolt, and will just say half the diameter of the shaft.........relieves the static pressure built up against the walls of the thread.........sometimes just drilling the hole and then putting a wrench back on it is all that's needed to remove it............of course the bolt is now junk................If your going to drill make sure you get a nice center punch mark in the center and start small and progressively work your way up. Also make sure your drilling straight.
Pay attention if this is a blind hole so that you do not damage anything at the bottom.

A picture would be great to see what your doing.

And go just big enough that you don't damage the threads then you can run a Tap thru to clean out the threads. If you do use a EZout be real careful not to break it the are super strong and a real bitch to get out. They also sell reverse drill bits that work real well soak it with something like PB blaster and then drill it with the reverse drill bit it will bind and back the bolt out. I bought a set of the reverse drill bits and it has the matching EZout as a set.

 

[C dubya]

I'm not going to be able to get to it until next week, but looks like I will be ordering some more tools. I doubt my 18v cordless drill will handle this job, I need to get a corded drill?

 

[DHugg]

The Easy out when trying to remove it bites into the metal of the bolt in the reverse direction aiding in the removal.

Drilling a hole in the center of the bolt, and will just say half the diameter of the shaft.........relieves the static pressure built up against the walls of the thread.........sometimes just drilling the hole and then putting a wrench back on it is all that's needed to remove it............of course the bolt is now junk................If your going to drill make sure you get a nice center punch mark in the center and start small and progressively work your way up. Also make sure your drilling straight.
Pay attention if this is a blind hole so that you do not damage anything at the bottom.

A picture would be great to see what your doing.

I had a rounded-out screwhead in the Dana 300 Transfer Case I rebuilt. Here are saved photos of the removal with an EASY-OUT. Your problem is the same, just bigger by scale.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

The Easy out when trying to remove it bites into the metal of the bolt in the reverse direction aiding in the removal.

Drilling a hole in the center of the bolt, and will just say half the diameter of the shaft.........relieves the static pressure built up against the walls of the thread.........sometimes just drilling the hole and then putting a wrench back on it is all that's needed to remove it............of course the bolt is now junk................If your going to drill make sure you get a nice center punch mark in the center and start small and progressively work your way up. Also make sure your drilling straight.
Pay attention if this is a blind hole so that you do not damage anything at the bottom.

A picture would be great to see what your doing.

To understand the “pressure” referred to by Terry99 on a bolt it is important to know about bolt “torque”. When a bolt is torqued to spec the action causes the bolt to “stretch” which in effect actually distorting the bolt to some extent. The bolt then tries to return to its original shape which puts “pressure” on the threads creating a tighter bond. Drilling a hole in the bolt helps to relieve that tension although sometimes a bolt is rusted in to the point a complete drill out is the only remedy.

 

[tarry99]

I'm not going to be able to get to it until next week, but looks like I will be ordering some more tools. I doubt my 18v cordless drill will handle this job, I need to get a corded drill?

C dubya,

Still not clear on the application your working on .....be it a bolt & a nut or a blind bolt in a case?
Once you have it out if it's something that may see moisture or dissimuilar metals between the two Items think about using some anti-sezze on the threads......makes it a lot easier to come apart the next time.

 

[C dubya]

C dubya,

Still not clear on the application your working on .....be it a bolt & a nut or a blind bolt in a case?
Once you have it out if it's something that may see moisture or dissimuilar metals between the two Items think about using some anti-sezze on the threads......makes it a lot easier to come apart the next time.

Tarry I am working on roll bar and seat belt bolts. I took some pics last night to post, they aren't the hidden variety. I think I can get at them straight forward. So they are torx bolts. Beleive me, i will be all about the anti-seize when it comes back together.

 

[PaRenegade]

I guess what I'm picturing and maybe some of the others are, is a broken bolt where the head snapped off. That's typically when the drilling and ez-out come into play. But if it's not broke off and just being a bit*h to turn, then I'd first try soaking it and some heat. Heat can do wonders on stuck bolts.
If the head is stripped out and you have a welder, I'd weld a nut to the top for a better grip. If you have no welder, those rollbar bolt heads are big enough that you could grind two flats opposite each other, to allow you to put a wrench on it and turn.

And if you should go the drilling route and you accidentally damage the threads, you could then just drill out the threads with a 3/8" drill and then use a longer 3/8" grade 8 bolt and nut, using the new nut on the bottom side of the existing nut since it's welded fast to the body support and not easily removed.

ps. If you do get the bolts out, don't worry about replacing them with the same type torx head bolts. Hex head will be fine, just add a washer under the head.

 

[C dubya]

I guess what I'm picturing and maybe some of the others are, is a broken bolt where the head snapped off. That's typically when the drilling and ez-out come into play. But if it's not broke off and just being a bit*h to turn, then I'd first try soaking it and some heat. Heat can do wonders on stuck bolts.
If the head is stripped out and you have a welder, I'd weld a nut to the top for a better grip. If you have no welder, those rollbar bolt heads are big enough that you could grind two flats opposite each other, to allow you to put a wrench on it and turn.

And if you should go the drilling route and you accidentally damage the threads, you could then just drill out the threads with a 3/8" drill and then use a longer 3/8" grade 8 bolt and nut, using the new nut on the bottom side of the existing nut since it's welded fast to the body support and not easily removed.

ps. If you do get the bolts out, don't worry about replacing them with the same type torx head bolts. Hex head will be fine, just add a washer under the head.

That's exactly what I have had going on. I do have some broken seat bolts, but these rollbar bolts are not broke. Some Are stripped. I have done the welding nuts on and only got one out. Did the PB blaster and some heat. That's why I am now considering the drilling route. I don't even think I could get these to turn if I did grind flats and gat a wrench on them.

 

[rr41mag]

Speaking from experience those roll bar bolts would be better off drilled out. Your going to destroy them anyway since they won't come out with a torx driver. Find out what size they are and just drill then tap them. Start small EX:1/8 bit and drill all the way through. Step up to a 3/16. Some times and I mean "sometimes" the heat from drilling will loosen them so that you can use an EZ out. I personally don't like "EZ OUTS" I saw too many times in my career with the Air Force someone trying to use an EZ out and they break it off. I had to get dental burrs and grid the EZ out , out.

 

[Duhwhat]

Tarry I am working on roll bar and seat belt bolts. I took some pics last night to post, they aren't the hidden variety. I think I can get at them straight forward. So they are torx bolts. Beleive me, i will be all about the anti-seize when it comes back together.

I took a grinder and made flat spots on each side of the torx bolt, heated it with a propane torch and put vise grip on it. The seat belts got damaged, but I knew when I started that I would be replacing them anyway.

After they broke loose they came on out with the torx wrench

 

[BrockGrimes]

Show me a pic of which bolt is stuck.
But you can try this first.
Heat the bolt really freaking hot, then stick wax on it like a candle in the thread area.
The wax will be sucked into the thread area and the bolt will come right out.

Depending on which bolt it is I have other methods to remove it.

 

[mtnwhlr]

Show me a pic of which bolt is stuck.
But you can try this first.
Heat the bolt really freaking hot, then stick wax on it like a candle in the thread area.
The wax will be sucked into the thread area and the bolt will come right out.

I have never heard of this. Its stuff like this that make being a member of this site so great. You can bet I will be trying this the next time I cant get a bolt out. I learned something new today

 

[C dubya]

Show me a pic of which bolt is stuck.
But you can try this first.
Heat the bolt really freaking hot, then stick wax on it like a candle in the thread area.
The wax will be sucked into the thread area and the bolt will come right out.

Depending on which bolt it is I have other methods to remove it.

BrockGrimes, I did take pics of them before I left this weekend, I will get them up tonight.

 

[C dubya]

I know I am late, but my drill arrives thursday. I hope to get the show back on the road this weekend.

 

[C dubya]

Show me a pic of which bolt is stuck.
But you can try this first.
Heat the bolt really freaking hot, then stick wax on it like a candle in the thread area.
The wax will be sucked into the thread area and the bolt will come right out.

Depending on which bolt it is I have other methods to remove it.

What I am working with. 9amp drill arrives Thursday. Hope to have alot of progress this weekend.

 

[BrockGrimes]

If you can try and drill them from below it'll spin it the right way as it drills.
You can cut the ears off the bolt head using a dremil so a cresent wrench will be able to turn the head.

I've been away on business and just got back to this thread, sorry.