Drive line angle

[jakeh937]

I'm really not sure how long the u joints will last. I know the higher the angle the shorter the life, but that's about all I know.



Is the other tcase also a Dana 20 ? 2 different rear output shafts were used on the Dana 20 . I don't remember the spline count, but one was a coarse spline (around 10 i think) and the other was a fine spline (around 26/27). You'll have to check the splines to see if the DC yoke will work for your tcase. Or if the rebuilt one is a Dana 20 , you could just use that tcase.



As far as the rear, yes, cutting the perches and rewelding them would actually be preferred over using shims, especially large ones. If you go this route, I would remove any current shims and just have the perches set correctly.

The rebuilt one is a Dana 20 . That one has the 10 spline count and I bought the yoke for that so I know it will fit if I swap it out with the Transfer Case that's in there now. Is there a maximum angle for tilting the rear Pinion?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Idahododgeram]

I have my Dana 44 pointing directly at the t case and am using a double cardan from Drivelines NW. I have a 4" Pro Comp spring under lift with a 1" Transfer Case drop. I did have to go to a different Diff cover since the stock fill hole was below the axle line after I clocked the rear axle. So far, no problems (wood knocking).

 

[jakeh937]

I have my Dana 44 pointing directly at the t case and am using a double cardan from Drivelines NW. I have a 4" Pro Comp spring under lift with a 1" Transfer Case drop. I did have to go to a different Diff cover since the stock fill hole was below the axle line after I clocked the rear axle. So far, no problems (wood knocking).

Awesome. I would like to do the CV but I've never cut and welded perches before. I could do it but I'd rather wait until the winter time if I can get by with what I have now. I just don't want to snap one as it is now way out in the back country [emoji53]do shops do that sort of thing? If I tell them the angle I want?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Torxhead]

Idahododgeram, I would think you could remove that Transfer Case drop. Since you have the CV setup correct. Jake, if you have a local 4wd shop that does fabricating, you should go in and ask them if they could set up your pinion angle.

 

[jakeh937]

Idahododgeram, I would think you could remove that Transfer Case drop. Since you have the CV setup correct. Jake, if you have a local 4wd shop that does fabricating, you should go in and ask them if they could set up your pinion angle.

Perfect. I asked this question in another post but what is the most * in shims one can use that is safe? I talked to a guy at tom woods and he said they sell shims up to 12*. Maybe I can get away with shims?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Idahododgeram]

I could remove the t case drop, but everything is working and I just got to drive my Jeep for the first time in over a year.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Torxhead]

Perfect. I asked this question in another post but what is the most * in shims one can use that is safe? I talked to a guy at tom woods and he said they sell shims up to 12*. Maybe I can get away with shims?

I am not a fan of using shims. One issue is that they cut down the lift that you paid big bucks to buy springs for. You also have to install longer axle locater pins. You can also get some help from 1" over stock length spring shackles. If you are going to install them I hear to get the ones made out of steel.

 

[jakeh937]

Perfect. I asked this question in another post but what is the most * in shims one can use that is safe? I talked to a guy at tom woods and he said they sell shims up to 12*. Maybe I can get away with shims?



I am not a fan of using shims. One issue is that they cut down the lift that you paid big bucks to buy springs for. You also have to install longer axle locater pins. You can also get some help from 1" over stock length spring shackles. If you are going to install them I hear to get the ones made out of steel.

I just measured my rear shackles. About 6.5" bolt to bolt. I'm REALLY confused on my setup and definitely need some help figuring it out



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jp360cj]

Stock shackles are 3" bolt to bolt. On CJ springs, the every 1" of increased shackle length gives you 1/2" of lift, so your 6.5" shackles are 1.75" lift. That's a LOT of shackle lift and is the reason your rear axle is tilted.

 

[jakeh937]

Stock shackles are 3" bolt to bolt. On CJ springs, the every 1" of increased shackle length gives you 1/2" of lift, so your 6.5" shackles are 1.75" lift. That's a LOT of shackle lift and is the reason your rear axle is tilted.

I should be able to run a shim with that until to run the CV I get some money saved up for a nice OME lift?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk