Drop Pitman Arm
Drop Pitman Arm
- Thread starter bdpalace
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jeepboy45
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Back in the day my Dad (who is 84) had a tool to remove those. It is a nut cracker type. NOT the kind you strike with a hammer (those just tear up boots) but the type you insert into the gap, and tighten down a large bolt that acts just like a nut cracker... A few turns and BANG! .... it comes loos. Absolutely no damage to anything, except maybe needing to wash your shorts when it finally "pops"..
BusaDave9
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A high steer kit replaces the steering knuckle. Then it has an arm that attaches to the knuckle. That is expensive and a lot of work.
We are only talking about installing the steering linkages on the top of the existing steering arm (on the knuckle)
BusaDave9
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Az84cj7
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A high steer kit replaces the steering knuckle. Then it has an arm that attaches to the knuckle. That is expensive and a lot of work.
We are only talking about installing the steering linkages on the top of the existing steering arm (on the knuckle)
Yes, I understand that its replacing the steering knuckle but how is this better than what bdpalace did to his rig? Its alot cheaper to do it the way bdpalace did as long as it acheives the same goal. To get the steering linkage up top.
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Old Dog
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Yes, I understand that its replacing the steering knuckle but how is this better than what bdpalace did to his rig? Its alot cheaper to do it the way bdpalace did as long as it acheives the same goal. To get the steering linkage up top.
Thanks
with the high steer knuckles you move your steering to the top of the arms that mount to the 3 bolts you see on top of the knuckles.
when you just flip the ends you do it at the reg (stock) arms that mount in the middle of the knuckle.
you get about 5" higher with the high steer. you need this for a SOA set up as just flipping the ends puts the tie rod and drag link in the springs with SOA.
Old Dog
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I'd go with someone like this Welcome to PartsMike™ Online
he has a good reputation.
I don't think they offer a "kit" but he does have all the parts you need and can machine your knuckles if you scrunge your own.
he has a good reputation.
I don't think they offer a "kit" but he does have all the parts you need and can machine your knuckles if you scrunge your own.
Incommando
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Stock '91 MJ 4.0/2wd parts runner
You can save $12 each on those inserts...
Tapered Steering Knuckle Insert - RuffStuff Specialties
All you need is a good drill bit, not an expensive taper tool.
Used that in the upper arm on my cross-over steering. Dandy little piece.
Tapered Steering Knuckle Insert - RuffStuff Specialties
All you need is a good drill bit, not an expensive taper tool.
Used that in the upper arm on my cross-over steering. Dandy little piece.
gliryan
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That ruffstuff insert uses a 7/8 bit. I bet thats going to be much less fun than the already difficult 3/4 bit it takes to use the goferit kit.
Has anyone done this to an old cj with the closed knuckle d27? I'm thinking about buying the inserts, probably the ruffstuff ones, for the tie rod. And then, because the old steering was the bell crank with no drag link, I was thinking about making an arm to come off the top of the knuckle that would just bolt onto those 4 bolts. But for that I was thinking about using hiem joints. Those inserts would make it really easy to just use the tie rod ends though.
Has anyone done this to an old cj with the closed knuckle d27? I'm thinking about buying the inserts, probably the ruffstuff ones, for the tie rod. And then, because the old steering was the bell crank with no drag link, I was thinking about making an arm to come off the top of the knuckle that would just bolt onto those 4 bolts. But for that I was thinking about using hiem joints. Those inserts would make it really easy to just use the tie rod ends though.
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Gliryan,
I would take off those spindles and find someone with a Mill. Clamp them on the table find the center , put a proper sized two flute end mill in the collet and bore them out. About 10 minutes per side. That is a much better approach rather than trying to hand drill a big hole in something thats tapered. The other approach is finding someone with a large enough CAR Reamer. Thats a tapered drill operated reamer that is pretty easy to operate and has a short flat untapered section at the end with the proper size. There expensive if you go to buy one.
I thought the GOferit kit looked pretty nice. you have to tack weld them in once installed.
I would take off those spindles and find someone with a Mill. Clamp them on the table find the center , put a proper sized two flute end mill in the collet and bore them out. About 10 minutes per side. That is a much better approach rather than trying to hand drill a big hole in something thats tapered. The other approach is finding someone with a large enough CAR Reamer. Thats a tapered drill operated reamer that is pretty easy to operate and has a short flat untapered section at the end with the proper size. There expensive if you go to buy one.
I thought the GOferit kit looked pretty nice. you have to tack weld them in once installed.