thanks TM,
can you give a run down/parts lists, of a proper Hei install and tune, my Cj didnt have any ignition parts. the main harness is all there, i can trace all the wires, some are cut short, all in ok shape. Im not shy to the idea of doing the motor craft. i like the cap and wire set-up, My live wires are like a beehive of lost spark! In the long run my goal is reliability, then construct validity.... thanks again.
I have a little test I do with the 'Super Duper' wires in pretty colors...
I raise the hood, get the engine running, then at night I mist water over then engine...
YOU SHOULD SEE THE LIGHT SHOW!
That's all LEAKING SPARK ENERGY, and the water just shows it up as glowing, the water doesn't have anything to do with the leaking spark energy, that's all on the wires...
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For my money, and I'm a cheap skate...
The MSD 8.5 mm 'Cut To Fit' sets of wires are what I use.
You can pay TONS for 'Pretty' wires that are
,
You can buy Discount 'Sore' wires for cheap that are
,
But the MSD 8.5mm wires work the first time, every time.
I've had sets last more than 10 years without 'Leakage' to speak of,
And that includes the boots, connectors, conductors.
(The MSD 'Street Fire' brand is made in 'China' and they are about the same quality as the Discount 'Sore' brand name wires, I won't use them)
*IF*...
You are going to use a HEI/Clone, then get an MSD Rynite distributor cap and 'Blow Proof' rotor set.
I don't often recommend 'Proprietary' parts, but that blow proof rotor should be ordered in PAIRS, so you have an extra just in case...
There simply isn't anything else like it on the market,
And probably won't be until the patents run out.
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This is probably more than anyone needs to know about this, but here goes...
Dupont Rynite was developed for the space program, They use some INSANE high voltage applications, and anything going into space had to consider STRENGTH, along with dielectric (Electrical Insulation) properties.
Charged atmosphere, charged particles, extreme heat/cold, this material had to keep things we'd call millions of volts of 'Static' from happening, and still deliver the CORRECT electrical signals at the correct time...
So, MSD used it for distributor caps...
WORKS GREAT!
There is a REAL issue with 'Ionization', Ions cling to everything, and Ionization is the first step to a spark jumping a gap.
Since Rynite repels ionic charges, the path for your spark energy to jump to the WRONG PLACE doesn't happen.
The bad news is, Since MSD got bought out by some conglomerate corporation, I don't know if they make the I-6 caps anymore. I haven't been able to find them lately...
But for the popular V-8 engines, they are still available, and for the quality of cap materials, center button material, terminal materials, they are a GREAT DEAL and the best 'Bang For The Buck' you can hope for without going to a $250 full on racing application, which you DO NOT need with these single coil ignitions.
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What people don't distinguish is,
The DISTRIBUTOR is the MECHANICAL component,
The Coil, Wires, Cap & Rotor are COMPLETELY HIGH VOLTAGE COMPONENTS, and should be regarded SEPARATELY from the distributor.
The rules for high voltage/spark energy are COMPLETELY CARVED IN STONE,
And cap 'Color', 'Brand Name' or 'Price' don't mean anything.
This is OBJECTIVE, and the objective is to get that hard won spark energy from ignition coil to spark plug gap...
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With that in mind,
THE DISTRIBUTOR YOU USE IS YOUR BUSINESS.
If you use an 'HEI', Delco or Clone, there are some safety checks you MUST do to limit the things that *CAN & DO* go wrong.
Depth in the block, binding the oil pump, drive gear mesh, drive gear materials, gear/shaft to rotor timing, ect.
If you use a Jeep/Motorcraft distributor from the parts store, that's all a non issue, it pretty much drops into place since it was DESIGNED to work with your engine.
Once the distributor is in place, the mechanical is done,
Then it's time for ELECTRICAL...
Cap, Rotor, Wires. Doesn't matter which distributor.
I went over this above, and if anything better comes along, or the same quality for a better price, I'll endorse it.
Right now, MSD cap, rotor, plug wires are well worth the money since they give you the ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES you need, and at a *Reasonable* price...
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*IF*...
You will be 'Happy' with the spark energy the smaller E-core coil produces working with the HEI style module in an HEI/Clone distributor,
And it's usually 'Adequate' to get an over rich gasoline engine firing reliably,
Then use an HEI,
Just don't think the cap, rotor, plug wires that come with that distributor have nearly the thought gone into them that MSD put into (select) products.
If you want to upgrade later,
Get just a little more spark energy out of the more powerful Ford style E-core coil, be able to use any module that comes along later,
Then use the Jeep/Motorcraft distributor since it's a modular ignition, you can change parts as newer/better comes available.
AFTER the cap, rotor, plug wires,
It's a game of INCHES, not feet anymore.
SLIGHTLY higher spark energies from better coils,
SLIGHTLY higher spark energies from deleting the ignition resistor wire,
WORKING CORRECTLY is one thing, and it's a big jump in some cases for these Jeeps,
But 'Increases' once you get that spark energy going where it should be are small and hard won, and COMPLETELY your choice...
I have all the major concerns mentioned about the clone HEIs. where would a good starting point be? I would like new parts if available. Im running a "bare bones" set up, only because i didnt know any better.
