• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

DUI dustributor problem

DUI dustributor problem
The PCV valve itself could be bad.
Pinch the hose going to the PCV when the engine is running. If the idle speed goes down the PCV valve is good. If the idle speed stays the same you have a bad PCV valve.

Better yet just replace it anyway. The PCV costs $3 and they are a standard maintenance item.
 
Dave
I tried pinching the hose and there was some difference in the idle, but it wasn't a huge difference. I think i will replace it anyway.
With the hose being clear and the valve apparently being OK, this most likely isn't the problem, right?
 
Looking at an hei distributor with the coil removed I see that the rotor brush can be removed leaving a hole in the top of the cap where possibly dirty dielectric grease or oil could leak down and deposit on top of the rotor. So a bad seal at the rotor brush, if there is one, could be the cause of the problem.
 
I'll check that too, but it is happening with the new coil and cap too.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
The spot of oil probably doesn't have any thing to do with the problem , I've taken hei's out of running sbc's with oil caked inside of them. But I have seen hei modules go bad and do the same thing ,"intermittent start" and they test fine , until you hit them several times with the tester then they fail. Swap your spare mod.in and see what happens.
 
Are you talking about the module below the rotor? The small black box?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
Tinman,
You could be on to something!
Maybe the spot of oil doesn't have anything to do with it. May be there is a short or a bad wire somewhere that fixes itself when i remove the cap to clean the oil off. Maybe just that simple moving of the cap gets everything back in line. Come to think of it, the last time this happened, i had to remove the cap 2-3 times before it fired up again.
Could it maybe be the main power wire? I'll check that.
Is there any other connection to the cap that you could think of?:confused:
 
Tinman probably solved it. Other electrical connections to look at would be the battery cables and ground contact between the distributor and engine block. Replacing that icm would be a good plan.
 
A good batt hot is very important with hei . I've had them run on less than 8 volts but not start . If you don't have a backup mod. Get one . They will fail and more often than not they will run but not start allowing you to get far from everywhere before you know its bad. I run an hei module with a ford e-core coil using the stock 440 pickup to trigger it and have a backup mod mounted next to the first one and one in the glovebox . Also the oil could not have come from your coil as it is like the ford e-core , also a dry e-core coil ' no oil' your only concern for wiring would be 12 volts hot , make sure your ign hot doesn't dip on crank much below batt voltage also make sure a good ground exists to the motor and body. Also I've had people accuse the Capacitor under the cap claiming its "bad" it is there for radio noise suppression not for running the ignition also good heat sink compound on the module NOT dielectric grease that comes from the parts zone it will boil out causing corrosion and failure.
 
Tinman22 said:
A good batt hot is very important with hei . I've had them run on less than 8 volts but not start .
Click to expand...
Good point. You can wire up a relay to get full battery voltage to the distributor.
HEIrelay02.gif
 
Ok. I have rewired the power wire as shown. I have a new battery connector, and i have replaced the module.

So far, so good. I'll let you know what happens.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
Still happening. It did it again yesterday after sitting for about 5 days. I removed the distributor cap twice and it finally cranked after spitting and sputtering for a few seconds. Any new ideas?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
I'm beginning to doubt it's an ignition prob. When it won't start have you checked for spark at the plug. Before taking the cap off.
 
I know you checked the hot how about the ground ? You might try running a temporary ground wire to the batt. From the dist. Is the ground spade seated in the connector correctly ? Maybe it's not making good contact.
 
Under your coil cover there should be a tin strap that goes from o coil mounting screw over to the middle slot for the three wire connector that goes under the cap that black wire screws to the dist. Body usually attaching the noise suppressor /capacitor from there a good ground from the intake manifold to the battery and body should do it . If they all check good and you know you have good power and you have replaced the coil and module also assuming the carbon pin spring and rubber washer are intact under the coil The only thing left would be the pickup but I don't think I've ever seen one go bad.
 
Also on a side note (Tecref5 hei distributors) google it very informative and clear explains HEI and diagnosis HEI like he invented it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$40.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  20.0%
Contribute
Back
Top Bottom