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Dynamat on the firewall

Dynamat on the firewall

TroyaCantrell

Old Time Jeeper
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1,455
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Location
Orangevale, CA
Vehicle(s)
1966 CJ 6, Buick V6 Dauntless,
Dana 44 rear, Dana 27 front

Trans GM SM 420
First Gear ....... 7.05
Second Gear ... 3.57
Third Gear ...... 1.70
Fourth Gear ... Direct

Dana T-case (twin stick)

1970 Glass dune buggy. Short pan 1600
2008 Chevy HHR SS
So has anyone used dynamat on the firewall on one of our older rigs? Seems like it would keep noise, heat, fumes, out of the cab.

It is a great sound deadening product to keep the pings and rattles at bay.

Anyone try to paint it?
 
It looks like it would work great. I really need to stop the exhaust heat from the head pipes and mufflers on the tub floor. Might get me some and experiment.

Dynaliner
 
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I have used the roll on stuff (used a roller to apply the mat), never painted it though. The mat is very thick, not sure how you could paint it, :)
 
I thought about using this type of product on the firewall when I was thumbing through a Summit Racing catalog, but there are several different types, all claiming to be the best. How does one make a selection?

AND...will this tend to make the underhood environment hotter? Not good for us carb guys. The engine may be water-cooled but the engine compartment is air-cooled.

I really need to stop the exhaust heat from the head pipes and mufflers on the tub floor.http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_dynaliner.html

Many years ago it was popular for street rodders to wrap their headers. As I recall it was to squeeze another couple horsepower out of the engine. It seems that underhood temperatures were also lowered, which reduced chances of vapor locking. Does this make any sense?

A couple decades ago I installed a wood stove in my tiny house. Code called for 36" between stove and wall. Instead, I installed a piece of sheet metal about 1" off the wall and then the stove was about a foot away from the sheet metal. The chimney effect of the sheet metal kept the wall cool. Could you do something similar on the floor--bolt a sheet of tin or fiberglass under the tub with a gap of 1/2 to 1 inch?
 
AND...will this tend to make the underhood environment hotter? Not good for us carb guys. The engine may be water-cooled but the engine compartment is air-cooled.

Many years ago it was popular for street rodders to wrap their headers. As I recall it was to squeeze another couple horsepower out of the engine. It seems that underhood temperatures were also lowered, which reduced chances of vapor locking. Does this make any sense?



:)Heat shielding can be difficult and may require a little of everything to get suitable results.........in the Race cars a thin stainless shield between the floors and the heat source with an air gap works will..........the Dynamat also works well in areas that are away from any foot traffic like your firewall or under some carpet.

For all Jeeps I would suggest louver's of some sort in the hood to exhaust the heat from the engine compartment.....and yes if rain is an issue position them to accommodate that.......and if your concerned about cool air to your Carburetor do a cool air intake to the outside...........and header wraps are simply done to contain the heat in the pipe and send it to its exit point which helps with the temp under the hood or close to your floors.

:D:D:D:D
 
Heat shields are common on cat converters so yes that would work well. I plan to run the dyno mat on my inner firewall as well for sound reduction.
 
A couple decades ago I installed a wood stove in my tiny house. Code called for 36" between stove and wall. Instead, I installed a piece of sheet metal about 1" off the wall and then the stove was about a foot away from the sheet metal. The chimney effect of the sheet metal kept the wall cool. Could you do something similar on the floor--bolt a sheet of tin or fiberglass under the tub with a gap of 1/2 to 1 inch?

Yes it makes sense but boy oh boy, that would be A LOT of bending/angles/cutting. Thus wrapping or shielding made more sense to me if there were a product that could do the job.
 
Yes it makes sense but boy oh boy, that would be A LOT of bending/angles/cutting. Thus wrapping or shielding made more sense to me if there were a product that could do the job.

:)I still say the best way to cool those Jeeps down is a system that allows the Hot Air trapped in the engine compartment to be exhausted out of that area by either louver's or?.......

Obviously when driving along the issue is mostly non existent..........but when Idling off road the problem is more pronounced not only for the occupants but also the motor.

Of course when its cold outside we welcome the heat...........Maybe a Louver system that can be opened or closed or simply doing a removable slide in panel under the hood Louver's that allows either full open , partial or closed.

And for the exhaust that travels under the floor either wrap it or shield it until it gets beyond the driver / Passenger area......

:D:D:D:D
 
:)I still say the best way to cool those Jeeps down is a system that allows the Hot Air trapped in the engine compartment to be exhausted out of that area by either louver's or?.......

Obviously when driving along the issue is mostly non existent..........but when Idling off road the problem is more pronounced not only for the occupants but also the motor.

Of course when its cold outside we welcome the heat...........Maybe a Louver system that can be opened or closed or simply doing a removable slide in panel under the hood Louver's that allows either full open , partial or closed.

And for the exhaust that travels under the floor either wrap it or shield it until it gets beyond the driver / Passenger area......

:D:D:D:D
When I'm on the trails you can see the hot air waves boiling out of my hood louvers. I think I could cook my lunch on them.:D
 
Hey good stuff guys. The main reason I was thinking of the matt is that I already have it.

Painting, just to make it less visible up high under the dash. It put a coat of primer on a piece the other day and it looked good I will paint it and take a look.

On the hood louvers, are these the ones I have seen in the Mags or you having the hood punched old school low rider style!
 
mine are the ones you see in the jeep mags. But any of them would wook.
 
Those are nice, I have been thinking about add those at some point.

Where did you get that bumper?
 
It's a Warn, it's about 9 years old so I don't know it they still make the samething or not.
 
When I'm on the trails you can see the hot air waves boiling out of my hood louvers. I think I could cook my lunch on them.:D


On the hood louvers, are these the ones I have seen in the Mags or you having the hood punched old school low rider style![/QUOTE]


:)Hey Dog................What's for Lunch?

Troy , you can buy pre punched and put them on top or go Old school and have it punched...........I'm thinking I'm going to punch some on the hood and also look at doing a small channel underneath to slide a piece of sheet metal in to close them off if needed...........I also think I'm going to do the inside fender panels. I have a friend with a die so it's just labor.

:D:D:D:D
 
This is one instance where boat parts might be cheaper than Jeep parts. I was looking at louvers on eBay today, for cars and boats.
 
"mine are the ones you see in the jeep mags. But any of them would work."



Old Dog, are those just stock rubber CJ fender flares? They look different, aftermarket. I'd love to see a better pic of them if possible and what the underside of your hood looks like with those louvers on it. Any chance?
 
been figuring when I do my 4.0 heap swap that i'd wrap the header to help reduce heat.
 

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