E - Brake not holding enough

[JR74CJ5]

So I replaced my 3 cables, adjusted the tension at the split, and my ebrake will still not hold my jeep tight enough in my opinion...

Has anyone had issues with pedal assembly or know of any tricks?

The tension is set to where the splitter will hang loosely slightly when no pedal is all the way released, then tighten and pull when the cables as the pedal is pressed in.

Pedal probably gets around 6 to 8 clicks in before can't go any further.

Reluctant to tighten the tension much further as I snapped one of the cables last time I tried to get this working, and it does hold, just not as good as I think it should (holds jeep on medium slope driveway, but I can manually push the jeep forward with it on still).

any suggestions?

Would like to have a operational e-brake one day, been years of not having one... Makes starting and warming up on incline a manual sit in the chair task, or have to find a wheel chalk laying around...

 

[Torxhead]

JR, was that cable ready to snap anyway? I don't seem to have any issues with mine. Your cable does sound a bit loose though. I am sure if you keep at it you will come up with something. Make sure the rest of the system is up to snuff. I have seen a couple of guys use the older Volkswagen between the seat e-brake handles that work great as hill holders.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Cable was new when snapped - just installed.

I've been thinking of a hand pull style "upgrade" but the problem is that space is used for center console normally - though I'm sure I could adapt it into a console type system...

I may try a new pedal assembly, but besides being bent around to clear the roll bar tube, nothing I can tell is wrong with my current one... Think I'll try to tighten the slack up a bit more and see what it does again...

 

[Posi]

Are your rear brake shoes adjusted properly? If you don't have enough drag the ebrake won't work as well.

 

[HackFabrication]

Are your rear brake shoes adjusted properly? If you don't have enough drag the ebrake won't work as well.

First thought that crossed my mind..

 

[JR74CJ5]

They have the "auto adjuster" in them, but have had them apart while putting in the rear ARB and changing out that broken cable and haven't moved it yet since...

I'll try to auto adjust them a bit when running on the road again.

I manually adjusted them by spinning the wheel and turning the adjuster gear / sprocket or whatever it's called until i noticed the drag and backed it back off slightly...

Is there a better way to adjust them?

 

[Torxhead]

That's how I do it, So maybe you could develop a way to get more travel out of the pedal that operates it.

 

[Posi]

I manually adjusted them by spinning the wheel and turning the adjuster gear / sprocket or whatever it's called until i noticed the drag and backed it back off slightly...

If all internal parts are in good working order sounds like you did the proper manual adjustment to the service brakes.

The tension is set to where the splitter will hang loosely slightly when no pedal is all the way released, then tighten and pull when the cables as the pedal is pressed in.

I do this differently.

With the parking brake off
I loosen the lock nut on the equalizer and loosen tension on the cables
I then tighten the cables until there is a slight drag at the wheels.
Then I loosen the cables until there is no drag at the wheels.

 

[gr8dain]

I've been thinking of a hand pull style "upgrade" but the problem is that space is used for center console normally - though I'm sure I could adapt it into a console type system...

I did this last year. I used a handle from an XJ. Worked great. Moved my console over just a smidge and fit it between the driver seat and the console. I even used the stock CJ cable all the way up to it.

But I think your issue is at the tensioning nuts at the equalizer.

 

[JR74CJ5]

I'll try looking at the tension a bit more at the equalizer, and looking at making sure the pedal assembly is working free and correctly.

If still doesn't work, I'll probably try a new pedal assembly or hand pull deal...

Who woulda thought a simple ebrake system would stump me...

 

[Posi]

I'll try looking at the tension a bit more at the equalizer, and looking at making sure the pedal assembly is working free and correctly.

If you do the above, along with adjusting the ebrake as I imperviously mentioned I think you'll be good to go.

 

[Belizean]

So I replaced my 3 cables, adjusted the tension at the split, and my ebrake will still not hold my jeep tight enough in my opinion...

Has anyone had issues with pedal assembly or know of any tricks?

The tension is set to where the splitter will hang loosely slightly when no pedal is all the way released, then tighten and pull when the cables as the pedal is pressed in.

Pedal probably gets around 6 to 8 clicks in before can't go any further.

Reluctant to tighten the tension much further as I snapped one of the cables last time I tried to get this working, and it does hold, just not as good as I think it should (holds jeep on medium slope driveway, but I can manually push the jeep forward with it on still).

any suggestions?

Would like to have a operational e-brake one day, been years of not having one... Makes starting and warming up on incline a manual sit in the chair task, or have to find a wheel chalk laying around...

I think you need your cable a little tighter. Mine is snug but not tight. Mine also clicks to about 10-11 positions. I do like the idea of a center console e-brake handle

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The AMC/CJ e-brake was far from the best when new.
I would first adjust both drums to where you just hear a bit of brake shoe rub when you turn the drum.
Then try to spin the wheel when you set the brake.
Use silicon spray where the cable passes through the shielding.
LG