engine stalls when slowing stopping
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engine stalls when slowing stopping
- Thread starter jaquo2
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CJ007
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Do you know what carb it is? It could be a vaccum, or the carb may just needs rebuilt. If its the carter 2bbl, do this
amc carter carb fix;
I rebuilt and still had issues, did this and has been fine for the last couple years.
amc carter carb fix;
I rebuilt and still had issues, did this and has been fine for the last couple years.
Oldyellowcj
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I have a simular issue. Carter 2bbl, nutterbypass, carb rebuilt 2 years ago and ran fine until 1 month ago. Idles fine at first fire up. Hard idle after driving around when I come to a stop. Stange thing is if you shut it down when its idling badly and fire back up a min later all is good for awhile. I followed same carter carb fix and seemed to be better for a couple days then back to the same old thing. the only step i did not do is drilling out the idle tubes because i was afraid if it did not correct my problem that is now a reversible mod.
Is their any adverse effects to drilling these tubes if the carb is not the ultimate issue????
Sorry to tag on to this post with another question but Im fighting the same Gremlin....
Is their any adverse effects to drilling these tubes if the carb is not the ultimate issue????
Sorry to tag on to this post with another question but Im fighting the same Gremlin....
CJ007
Old Time Jeeper
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- 83' CJ7-35's, granny T18, clocked, locked, 456s, D30 20 trussed- stitched-heim traction-1 piece shafts, CV dshaft, quick discos, xtended shock mounts, SOA, revolvers rear, braided lines, herculined, hand throttle, AMC saddle bags, rebuilt 258, D300.
That is the main part of the fix. There are no issues that I know of and it was very easy, I didn't use a press or anything. Just a hand drill and the bit. It was a recommended fix by Jeep as the inside diameters of the tubes are so small they always plug up.
I can't speak for anyone else but I have not had an issue in over two years since I did it. Even if it isn't issue and it is a vaccum or needs a complete rebuild, I would recommend doing it.
Oldyellowcj
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Thanks CJ007, I went back cleaned carb again and drilled the tbes to .032 and so far idle has greatly improved.
Now I just need to fine tune the idle mixture screws. Mine are 5-1/2 turns out, that is where the original PO had them set. I see in other post that to start at 2-1/2 so mine seem pretty far out. Any tips? It idles good now and I dont want to mess up a good thing. How do I check for too rich or should I leave enough alone?
Anybody?
Now I just need to fine tune the idle mixture screws. Mine are 5-1/2 turns out, that is where the original PO had them set. I see in other post that to start at 2-1/2 so mine seem pretty far out. Any tips? It idles good now and I dont want to mess up a good thing. How do I check for too rich or should I leave enough alone?
Anybody?
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- 1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
you can try starting low and adjusting out as needed... most of the time you'll need to adjust the idle screw too.
If you know the timing is correct, you can skip that step although i start there first normally.
You can tell if it is running too rich a few ways i am aware of... Though these might not be the best ways...
1 Check the exhaust pipe for excessive fuel unburned coming out. Especially at idle.
2 you can inspect the spark-plugs. I think if it is sooty black, then running too rich, or weak spark. If white-ish burn marks, then may be running too rich. There are other posts areound that list the inspection results (what means what) i am just going off my memory...
Depending on your budget, you can sometimes clean up the plugs good with emery cloth / fine grit sand paper, but after a few times, it is better to just replace them. If re-using them, double check the gaps before putting them back in
If you go this route (#2), it can also tell you more things. if one plug is a whole lot different than the others, you may have a head problem etc. so good to check it from time to time to get an idea how everything is running.
To answer your main question: I am not very familiar with the type of carb you have, but 5+ turns seems to be quite high for me. I would wager you are running rich. At this point, the plugs may be so dirty you need to check them before trying to re adjust carb.
~ JR
If you know the timing is correct, you can skip that step although i start there first normally.
You can tell if it is running too rich a few ways i am aware of... Though these might not be the best ways...
1 Check the exhaust pipe for excessive fuel unburned coming out. Especially at idle.
2 you can inspect the spark-plugs. I think if it is sooty black, then running too rich, or weak spark. If white-ish burn marks, then may be running too rich. There are other posts areound that list the inspection results (what means what) i am just going off my memory...
Depending on your budget, you can sometimes clean up the plugs good with emery cloth / fine grit sand paper, but after a few times, it is better to just replace them. If re-using them, double check the gaps before putting them back in
If you go this route (#2), it can also tell you more things. if one plug is a whole lot different than the others, you may have a head problem etc. so good to check it from time to time to get an idea how everything is running.
To answer your main question: I am not very familiar with the type of carb you have, but 5+ turns seems to be quite high for me. I would wager you are running rich. At this point, the plugs may be so dirty you need to check them before trying to re adjust carb.
~ JR