External grill bolt

[FiNorman]

I just removed the radiator and what I think is the AC unit and noticed that at the bottom of the grill there is this large bolt that goes into the frame, but it looks unusually long.
I think the PO place it there to compensate for the body lift, but it has damaged the "lip" of the grill where it meets the bumper.
Is the grill worth saving? should I just cut the bolt off, and try to bend the "lip" back? Should I scrap everything and bite the bullet and buy another grill?

 

[alpha6]

That is where your frame bolts to the bushings and in your case where some spacers were added for the body lift.

 

[mtnwhlr]

If the rest of the grill is good I would keep it and fix the bottem part.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

If the rest of the grill is good I would keep it and fix the bottem part.

Agreed. It's pretty easy to bend that metal around if you are careful. If I straightened the rear of my tub somewhat, the grill shouldn't be a problem!


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[73CJ]

That sheet metal cover peels up, but don't go too far. There is a cage nut in there. They can be replaced. Google "cage nut"

The original had the bolt coming up from the bottom.

You must have a body lift by the looks of that spacer. Stock was about a half inch of rubber.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

The bolt that goes there was one of the two I broke dismantling the tub and body on my 1980. I got mine all the way out and plan on utilizing Never Seize when it goes back together. Wouldn't have been too much trouble to get a grinder in there to remove the caged nut from the inside if need be. Repairs would not be as evident that way.

My $.02.


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[IOPort51]

cut the bolt off so the spacer comes off and out of the way . Soak the bolt/captive nut in 1/2 and 1/2 ATF and acetone for a few days and you may be able to save the captive nut.

It has been my experience that captive nuts can , in general, be a real PITA.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

It has been my experience that captive nuts can , in general, be a real PITA.

And the fine engineering folks at AMC loved them apparently!

 

[IOPort51]

they did an excellent job of what they were designed to do. make it easy to thread the mount bolts into the body nuts and speed up the mounting of the tub.

Unfortunately they didn't hold up real well to being caked with mud and /or sand, salt or just water for 30 something years. It may have been a good thing if the cages were a bit heavier but even that is doubtful.

And the fine engineering folks at AMC loved them apparently!

 

[Barry2]

A good coating of anti_sieze compound will go a long way for any disassembly needed down the road.

 

[rr41mag]

I drilled mine out and just put a nut with a lock washer on it.

 

[FiNorman]

So not to sound like a cherry, but this sort of goes along with my next question... I have several broken body mounts in my yj donor tub that I need to remove and fix. Two are the ones that are located behind my back seat and slightly anterior to the roll bar mounts. I planned on cutting a square hole in the floor board, removing the old broken bolt.... can I replace it with this McMaster-Carr, as well as using this for the grill bolt? is the size of the bolt 3/8th?

 

[IOPort51]

So not to sound like a cherry, but this sort of goes along with my next question... I have several broken body mounts in my yj donor tub that I need to remove and fix. Two are the ones that are located behind my back seat and slightly anterior to the roll bar mounts. I planned on cutting a square hole in the floor board, removing the old broken bolt.... can I replace it with this McMaster-Carr, as well as using this for the grill bolt? is the size of the bolt 3/8th?

I guess this could happen.

I used a hole saw to get to mine, if you are really careful at spotting the hole you can be right on top of it. well, it sounds easy anyway. Measure three or four times and drill once. good luck. you will be able to grab the "nut" with vice grips or just knock it up to break the cage loose.

After you have a hole you can either penitrate oil the be-jeebers out of it and maybe it will break loose or just use a nut and flat washer to replace the cage nut. The idea is to put electric panel box plugs, hopefully SS, in the hole when you are done. once you have access to the nut it is not so important to have the nut attached.

 

[IOPort51]

rather than use anti seize, I would use Locktite. With any luck it will be 30 more years before they have to come out again.

 

[FiNorman]

I guess this could happen.

I used a hole saw to get to mine, if you are really careful at spotting the hole you can be right on top of it. well, it sounds easy anyway. Measure three or four times and drill once. good luck. you will be able to grab the "nut" with vice grips or just knock it up to break the cage loose.

After you have a hole you can either penitrate oil the be-jeebers out of it and maybe it will break loose or just use a nut and flat washer to replace the cage nut. The idea is to put electric panel box plugs, hopefully SS, in the hole when you are done. once you have access to the nut it is not so important to have the nut attached.

can you tell me more about the electric panel box plugs? The tub is a yj, so there are these conical bumps in the floor board that I think will outline the location.