Ford EFI Engine...
poppatello
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Ford EFI Engine...
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Peanut Butter
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Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
No experience, but here is a link to an article: The Ford Windsor V8 Engines - Novak Conversions Rod
Morris4x4Center
www.jeep4x4center.com
Depending on the year engine, an AOD Transmission shifts by a sensor I believe on the EFI. Rather than a mechanical or cable linkage. I'm not sure how that would be worked around. (?) Unless you used the AOD.
poppatello
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Looking at one with an obd 1 harness and has the ecm accessories. I plan on running a T-18 fir the tranny no matter what motor I swap. I already have the Transmission . Just need to have the output shaft done on it...
Neuner
Old Time Jeeper
Not for certain but I thought one of the issues with the 351 was there were too many variations? The 302 had less and there were more produced of a certain version so it was cheaper and easier to find parts was the impression I got.
My dad had a 351. Beast of an engine block and head. It was all of the other components that had it constantly in repair.
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The 351 the OP was referring to is the 351W. It's a great truck motor with the same bore as a 302 but with a 1/2" more stroke. I run a hot rodded one in my Bronco. It's pretty easy to adapt the ford sefi to a 351W using a mustang cobra upper and a 351W lower.
I have a 65 Mustang with a 5.0 SEFI. Runs very strong.
I have a 65 Mustang with a 5.0 SEFI. Runs very strong.
poppatello
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Yup. That's what I meant. I know folks are running Chevy's but I really like the looks of a Ford motor in the engine bay. You have the same work either way and I can get a Ford engine the same as a Chevy in cost. I already have the Ford T-18 . Still have driveshaft issues with either engine. The AMC 304 I have is not complete. It is a low mileage engine so they told me but the cost to get the components I need would be about the same to dropping in a EFI motor. At least that is what I'm thinking. I was just looking for someone on this site that might have done a Ford swap that I can use as a mentor. Folks on Pirate aren't as forthcoming with help...
poppatello
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The AMC 304 I have. Supposed to have 25,000 on the rebuild...
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poppatello
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Neuner
Old Time Jeeper
Even if there isn't anyone on here who has, I think this is the site to post your build/swap thread and inquire about any particular issues that may come up. If these guys can't help you through it (and keep their snide comments to themselves) then no one can.
Peanut Butter
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Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
Poppatello, What TC will you use with this setup? Please be sure to post all of your results. The build section of this forum is great. Rod
poppatello
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HackFabrication
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poppatello
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Hack, sorry for wasting yours and everyone else's time here. I've looked over your awesome post on the Jeepforum. The Ford 302 I was trying to get didn't work out. Guy played hard to get and ended up selling it after I told him I would take it.
Not sure what the year of the motor was. It was a Ford 302 EFI OBD I with low miles. Supposedly he had everything needed to drop in a Cj. He ended up selling the jeep so the motor was left.
So I had a buddy of mine tell me he has a stock 97 5.7 Vortec with lower then normal miles. Complete with everything less Transmission . He's keeping the Transmission out of the truck. He is looking for 350 for it.
I told him that I thought the TBI motors were better for the swaps. He has a few jeeps and he is telling me the Vortec motor is the better motor. He even told me that the OBD II's are better then the OBD I's. I've heard or read different but who is to believe?
Everything I read states the TBI is the better motor. Meaning easier to get it to do what you want because the PCM is not as smart.
Now I'm just about to say screw it. I currently have an AMC 2.5 and upgraded to a Weber carb. It never did run 100%. Now the thing spits oil out like a dirty seaman. I catch it in a plastic coffee can.
I currently have a 72 low miles AMC 304 . But it isn't complete. PO took most of the external components to mate it to his 401 he got. I'm thinking it will run me about 1200 bucks to complete the motor and I never heard it run. It was a jump the gun type of deal. It was cheap, clean, and even had a reman tag on it.
However, I just really don't want to go with another carb set up. It actually scares me. I've been up some deep inclines in the jeep with the family in it and the carbs stall out. That was enough for me to want to go the FI route.
I just don't know enough about engines to make an educated decision on which one I want. I just want reliability as well as longetivity with some power to turn my 35's and get me through anything. I've done a lot of reading on the Chevy TBI's and Fords and you need to look for this type of vehicle and year and intakes and so fourth. It really doesn't make much sense to me.
I have a perfect goal. I have the Ford T-18a that I plan to rebuild and install the correct output shaft. Mate it to my Dana 300 with twin stick. Running 4:56 gears.
If I go the Chevy route I don't have an issue with running an SM435. Rock crawling is just dead last on my list of adventurer.
I do like the looks of a Ford in the engine bay. I'm not really partial to either. Hell, I've even looked into diesel swaps. Again, don't know much about them. I just want the easiest with the lest mods and running some type of NoN carb intake (I know most folks do). I'm willing to take the time and collect what is needed. Just need to know what to collect.
I'm even thinking of just letting the Cj go @ this point and trading for an Xj that is lifted with 33's. Who knows...
Not sure what the year of the motor was. It was a Ford 302 EFI OBD I with low miles. Supposedly he had everything needed to drop in a Cj. He ended up selling the jeep so the motor was left.
So I had a buddy of mine tell me he has a stock 97 5.7 Vortec with lower then normal miles. Complete with everything less Transmission . He's keeping the Transmission out of the truck. He is looking for 350 for it.
I told him that I thought the TBI motors were better for the swaps. He has a few jeeps and he is telling me the Vortec motor is the better motor. He even told me that the OBD II's are better then the OBD I's. I've heard or read different but who is to believe?
Everything I read states the TBI is the better motor. Meaning easier to get it to do what you want because the PCM is not as smart.
Now I'm just about to say screw it. I currently have an AMC 2.5 and upgraded to a Weber carb. It never did run 100%. Now the thing spits oil out like a dirty seaman. I catch it in a plastic coffee can.
I currently have a 72 low miles AMC 304 . But it isn't complete. PO took most of the external components to mate it to his 401 he got. I'm thinking it will run me about 1200 bucks to complete the motor and I never heard it run. It was a jump the gun type of deal. It was cheap, clean, and even had a reman tag on it.
However, I just really don't want to go with another carb set up. It actually scares me. I've been up some deep inclines in the jeep with the family in it and the carbs stall out. That was enough for me to want to go the FI route.
I just don't know enough about engines to make an educated decision on which one I want. I just want reliability as well as longetivity with some power to turn my 35's and get me through anything. I've done a lot of reading on the Chevy TBI's and Fords and you need to look for this type of vehicle and year and intakes and so fourth. It really doesn't make much sense to me.
I have a perfect goal. I have the Ford T-18a that I plan to rebuild and install the correct output shaft. Mate it to my Dana 300 with twin stick. Running 4:56 gears.
If I go the Chevy route I don't have an issue with running an SM435. Rock crawling is just dead last on my list of adventurer.
I do like the looks of a Ford in the engine bay. I'm not really partial to either. Hell, I've even looked into diesel swaps. Again, don't know much about them. I just want the easiest with the lest mods and running some type of NoN carb intake (I know most folks do). I'm willing to take the time and collect what is needed. Just need to know what to collect.
I'm even thinking of just letting the Cj go @ this point and trading for an Xj that is lifted with 33's. Who knows...
HackFabrication
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I can't provide any 'hands on' input for GM engine swaps into CJ's. If you are looking to upgrade to 90's technology, you have a lot of options.
Ford built the 302/5.0L in various configurations, for various cars/trucks/suv's/etc., for a long time. Carb'd, TBI, MPI, SEFI. Lot's of acronyms when going EFI. Also the Ford 351W/5.8L is a viable option. It is only slightly bigger in overall size. Most popular source for an engine is the V8 Mountaineer/Explorer. IIRC, the last year for the 5.0L in either of them was 2001. So you are looking at a 14 year old engine. Ford Racing still offers them as crate engines: https://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp#smb
The Ford 5.0L, I and a number of other's have used, is based upon the 93 Mustang MAF SEFI engine. Mine is a Ford Racing crate engine, similar to this one: https://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10271. I purchased it used from someone who had it installed in his 87 Mustang, then got rear ended (total) two weeks after. It had very little miles. Everything from the intake manifold up is Mustang. I'm running 24# injectors, 65mm TB, and MAF. I'm using F150 headers, but there are a couple options available. Ford rates this engine at 345hp set up like I have. There are a couple of aftermarket sources for engine mounts. I'm using M.O.R.E. mounts.
The SEFI uses the EEC-IV computer. Most common are the A9L (manual Transmission ) A9P (auto Transmission ). There are others that will also work. Lots of options with wiring, depending on your particular skill set. It uses OBD-I. For $29 you can get a plug in scanner that will give you the trouble codes. Simple and effective system for a CJ, IMHO.
EEC-V/OBD-II systems are a bit more 'Techy', using more sensors, and providing more feedback. This also means there are more wires to connect. The people I know that have done the 5.0L swap are all using EEC-IV/OBD-I.
If you are going with Ford powertrain, and the CJ will see a lot of street driving, consider using the T-176 /177 4 spd. If extended highway use is planned, then I'd recommend the AOD (Overdrive auto). The T-176 came with the Dana 300 , so adapting isn't an issue. THe AOD will need an adapter. Advance Adapter part # AA50-2901/2 depending on Transmission year.
On my CJ, I am basically all Ford from the Contour dual fan setup, 5.0L engine, flywheel, clutch, bell housing, starter, and T18a Transmission .
Send me a PM and we can swap emails if you have any specific questions.
Ford built the 302/5.0L in various configurations, for various cars/trucks/suv's/etc., for a long time. Carb'd, TBI, MPI, SEFI. Lot's of acronyms when going EFI. Also the Ford 351W/5.8L is a viable option. It is only slightly bigger in overall size. Most popular source for an engine is the V8 Mountaineer/Explorer. IIRC, the last year for the 5.0L in either of them was 2001. So you are looking at a 14 year old engine. Ford Racing still offers them as crate engines: https://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp#smb
The Ford 5.0L, I and a number of other's have used, is based upon the 93 Mustang MAF SEFI engine. Mine is a Ford Racing crate engine, similar to this one: https://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10271. I purchased it used from someone who had it installed in his 87 Mustang, then got rear ended (total) two weeks after. It had very little miles. Everything from the intake manifold up is Mustang. I'm running 24# injectors, 65mm TB, and MAF. I'm using F150 headers, but there are a couple options available. Ford rates this engine at 345hp set up like I have. There are a couple of aftermarket sources for engine mounts. I'm using M.O.R.E. mounts.
The SEFI uses the EEC-IV computer. Most common are the A9L (manual Transmission ) A9P (auto Transmission ). There are others that will also work. Lots of options with wiring, depending on your particular skill set. It uses OBD-I. For $29 you can get a plug in scanner that will give you the trouble codes. Simple and effective system for a CJ, IMHO.
EEC-V/OBD-II systems are a bit more 'Techy', using more sensors, and providing more feedback. This also means there are more wires to connect. The people I know that have done the 5.0L swap are all using EEC-IV/OBD-I.
If you are going with Ford powertrain, and the CJ will see a lot of street driving, consider using the T-176 /177 4 spd. If extended highway use is planned, then I'd recommend the AOD (Overdrive auto). The T-176 came with the Dana 300 , so adapting isn't an issue. THe AOD will need an adapter. Advance Adapter part # AA50-2901/2 depending on Transmission year.
On my CJ, I am basically all Ford from the Contour dual fan setup, 5.0L engine, flywheel, clutch, bell housing, starter, and T18a Transmission .
Send me a PM and we can swap emails if you have any specific questions.
Neuner
Old Time Jeeper
I couldn't find an engine with OBDI in my area so I'm having to go with the OBDII. I don't have a lot of experience in this but I did study both before moving forward to determine how much more effort I needed to apply to looking for version 1. For my model and year the OBDII only has one more sensor that is used for the engine operation so I went with it.
I got the engine and PDC harness with the engine purchase and have traced every wire that I need to make sure they were correct/existed. The connections that I have left to make are the same I'd have to perform with version 1.
OBDII doesn't have the same check engine light simplicity as 1. Instead it is interpreted by some other board/computer and then displayed. HOWEVER, for me as an extra bonus, the OBDII on mine has a SCSI interface with the PCM which can be connected to a bluetooth device. With the right app, you can read the codes, speed, pressure, temperature, RPMs, etc (anything with a sensor attached) right on your phone or computer in real time, all for $30-50 on the low end! This is what brownrxmd is doing with his LS and an ASUS tablet.
I have found that you have to research the best model year in which performance was peaked before the more stringent emission regulations were applied to the system. From what I read, the more stringent it was, the more sensors, processing and restrictions.
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poppatello
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Sent you a PM Hack...
HackFabrication
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Never got it.
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As a Ford guy I just have to say that is a thing of beauty... love the tubular GT40 intakes.
poppatello
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I love that intake look too Jim.
Hack, I sent you my email like you asked. Here it is here. poppatello@comcast.net.
I also sent you this link of an engine. It's out of a town car and I was wondering what you thought about it? Should I be looking for an Explore or Mountaineer engine over any 5.0 and if so what is the difference? Is it the gt40 heads on them???
Ford 302 5.0 V8 Engine
Then at this very moment I just saw this!!!
Ford Mustang 5.0 302 gt40 engine
Hack, I sent you my email like you asked. Here it is here. poppatello@comcast.net.
I also sent you this link of an engine. It's out of a town car and I was wondering what you thought about it? Should I be looking for an Explore or Mountaineer engine over any 5.0 and if so what is the difference? Is it the gt40 heads on them???
Ford 302 5.0 V8 Engine
Then at this very moment I just saw this!!!
Ford Mustang 5.0 302 gt40 engine