Frame repair

Frame repair


South Jersey (yea, someone has to)
79 CJ7... 258 motor... T-18 trans... Dana 20 case... Dana 30 w/ lockrite... AMC 20 w/ detroit and 1 piece axles.
Here are some pics of this weekends frame work on my '79 CJ7. I kept whaling on it with the BIG thumper until I found where I had good metal.... and then went to work with the grinder and the heavy wire wheel. After coating it with POR 15 and then primer, the 1/4 plates were bolted into place and then stich welded. I didn't have time to take any pics last night after the application on 3 cans of rust killing primer and 2 more of rustoleum flat black, but suffice to say, she looks better. I took a pic of the back too. Note the "access holes" the PO made to get to the body mounts(I guess). Time for more aluminum plate. LOL Tonight we're gonna tackle the gas tank skidplate and patch that up with some galvanized.
I'll post a better pic of her when I get done installing the new stainless brake lines, wheel cylinders and brakes; and can get it outside. Oh yea, Thanks to this site, I was able to get the D@#M brake drums off:). I don't remember my '86 having those stainless screws holding the drum to the hub???... but that was many years and beers age.
On another note, The springs are 5 leafs with red eye bushings (rancho maybe) They are tapered on the ends with antifriction pads but have no degree shim. Would these be stock??? The shackles are not stock. I believe they are 3/4 " lift shackles and it looks like it has a 1" body lift. The Jeep sits on 31" tires now with MAYBE room for 32's. Does this sound right? I figured with stock springs, the 1" body and the 3/4" shackles, there should be more clearence than that???? Unless the springs are a stock replacement. I can take a pic of them if it would help.
Again, thanks for all your time :notworthy:
That is some serious frame rot ya had there. You did a heck of a job repairing it.

I :laugh:ed at the 'access' holes! That's just not right!!!

Sounds like Rancho springs, do any of the leafs have a military wrap or a semi one? I don't believe the stock springs had anti friction pads. My Rancho springs had a part number painted in white right in top of them, can you see any remnants of a #?

The body mounts look allot more then 1"! Anything over 1" is a body lift. What do you get when you measure them?

Are your trying to fit new tires and wheels under it or just looking to replace the suspension?
Wow ! That frame rot makes me feel alot better about mine. Nice job fixing that up. Did Rancho have a military wrap spring? I thought that was mainly BDS?
Wow ! That frame rot makes me feel alot better about mine. Nice job fixing that up. Did Rancho have a military wrap spring? I thought that was mainly BDS?
My replacement from a few years ago was a military wrap. I guess they started it a bit ago...
I'll measure the body mounts when I get home this afternoon. So the stock ones measured 1"? If so I'll subtract that from the measurement I get.
The springs (and everything else) are covered with surface rust from sitting outside for years. The eyes look like the ones on my skyjackers/superlifts on my chevy, just 1 wrap on the main leaf. Originially, I thought they were the stock springs with replacement bushings.... until I saw the tapered ends with the friction pads. I am pretty sure the shackles are 3/4" to 1" lift shackles, and with that body lift, I would think I would have more clearence than I do. I know rancho makes a stock replacement spring. I'll attach another pic of the jeep and try to get a better one tonight. I'ts kinda hard to get an accurate look at the front wheel with the back jacked up a foot or so.
My original plan (when I thought I had stock springs) was to put in add-a -leafs for now; as I assumed my springs were sagged from being 30 years old, but if they aren't stock, I don't think add-a-leafs will work with aftermarket springs. I know the right thing to do would be to swap them out for a set on 3" BDS springs, but money is tight and I know from experience that by the time I was done with springs, shocks, stabalizer, pitman arm, ect.... I would be into it for better than 5 hundred bills. That's waaay over my budget now. The jeep was free, and it runs good. My total investment so far is @ $75.00 at the local steel yard, and the $$ to change all the fluids (Oil, trans, tf case, rears, and radiator). I was hoping for 33" tires, but could be happy with 32's (maybe...LOL).
See what you think from the pic.... and I'll try for better ones tonight.
The Chevy used to look bad too !!! LOL
CJ, I measured the body mounts last night and they are 1 3/4". They do look bigger in the pics. The shackles measure 5" eye to eye. Does anyone know what factory shackles measure eye to eye?
Gas tank skid plate covered with galvanized last night, so that can go back in soon. My tank has two vapor hoses that go up behind the DS rear wheelwell to a plastic piece about the size of a baseball and then to what looks like a solonoid valve. From there, a hose runs forward up the frame rail, where it terminates near the brake block at a rubber hose that has been cut. I'm assuming that it used to go to a charcoal canister (which is non-existant now). My question is, can I take a piece of hose and connect the two hose nipples on the gas tank together, or should I put a long length of hose on each one and route them up near where they go now?(kinda like the vent for the axles) I'm going to remove and trash the solonoid and other plastic thing, as they are cracked and not salvageable and the hose running up the frame is waaay rusted.
Sorry for all the ????'s You guys are great !!!
I just sealed up the tank nipples on mine, I didn't bother to connect them together but that will work just as well if your not using the emissions system.

Trash what solenoid? Have a pic?
I'll take one tonight. The whole assembly is laying on my bench. It looks like a small electric fuel pump(with no wires) but it's got to be some kind of check valve that lets the vapors go to the charcoal canister....which is long gone. It was up inside by the DS taillight. Was bolted to back side of wheelwell. Definitely factory. 2 hoses from fuel tank to round black plastic thing, then 1 hose to this thing, then 1 hose up frame rail towards engine.
Just joined and know this is an old post but this is exactly what my frame needs! I was wondering if those are the plates they sell at MORE? My frame is a little more rusted than yours was though and I was thinking of cutting the whole back end off right at the rear hangers. BTW I drive this Jeep every single day rusty frame or not!
I love my 2 desert Cjs. You know I can say that the work you eastern guys have to put into your jeeps is really a testament of love. I was under the 67 all day today replumbing the brakes and was amazed at how great of shape the frame is in for a 42 year old Jeep. no stressed areas or cancer at all.
Tell me about it! Mine is actually a pretty good one as far as unrestored daily drivers go. It wont stop running so I just keep driving it. The strange thing is that the frame is perfect all the way back to the rear spring hanger, but after that the rest is just junk! I know guys are cutting off the rear section that I need to make buggies and such. Also I was looking at rear frame rails at Competition Engineering. My father is an old school hot rod builder/damn good welder!
Also I was looking at rear frame rails at Competition Engineering. My father is an old school hot rod builder/damn good welder!
sounds like you have it under control then. I think every CJ owner should weld, these things always need this and that done to them.
Great work, I just purchased a 79 cj7 V8. I was sooo eager when I saw it that I did not look at the frame. My frame looks just like yours and I am not a mechanic or welder. I thought that I only had surface rust, but I had no idea of "what lied beneath"!!!! I've done the basic tune up and it runs great, but what I thought was just surface rust turned out to be frame, pan and body rust. I really need help with this CJ that i love despite the cancer. Does anyone have any suggestions on a welder and/or body guy that doesn't charge the bogus (astronomical) prices that I've been receiving over the phone??? I need to find a true jeep lover, not a jeep capitalist!!! I want to do as much of the work as I can, but I know my limits….
I think I still have the templets I used to make my frame plates out in my shop. Between my Dad(he's 86 and can still outwork my ***) and I we fabbed all the metal to fix her. Waaay cheaper than buying the premade chrome stuff. How far are you from Phily. I'm 15 mins from the Walt Whitman on the SJ side. Currently working on a 69 K2500 for my son, but I would do some welding for ya over the winter. Here's a current pic.

***old enuf to remember when gas prices were low, octane was high, a computer was something the astronauts used, and there was no replacement for good ol' displacement !!***

***injection is nice...but I'd rather be BLOWN***
I live about 35 miles (30 mins) from the bridge. Wow, I live 1 mile from The Jeepshop, and that guy didn't even return my call after I spoke with him and told him that I needed an estimate. He immediately started shooting prices and numbers without even seeing the jeep, that is the type of people that I keep running into. (It really sucks!!!) I will send you the pics of the rust. I don't have a top for it. It blew off during the tow to my garage. Would you be able to keep it inside if we strike a deal? I'm in the process of cleaning up the engine and anything else that may give me a little more clarity on the journey in front of me. Nothing major, just using engine and oil cleaner sprays.
I tried to upload the photos, but I can't seem to attach them in the forum. Do you have an email address that I can try to send them to? If you send me an email address I'll try to send them to you immediately, because i want to get my CJ7 on the road/trail as soon as possible. I work hard, and I want to be able to play harder w/ my CJ. It's just sitting in a garage now. My email address is I live in Glenmoore pa, and its hard to find guys who do jeep frame welding and repairs out here w/ the exception of commercial shops, which I am trying to avoid.

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