Fuel gauge and Temp gauge still dont work?

[peterb]

I just replaced both my fuel and temp gauges in the cluster. I had the fuel sending unit checked when the tank was dropped and they said that it worked that it was the gauge. just change both fuel and temp, neither works? What are next steps? thanks for any help. Peter

 

[jasonmark1993]

Make sure both have a good ground.

They both need key on power as well.

Depending on what year you have, there are some weird ground connections behind the dash. Mine were all goofed up on my 73'.

 

[gerth21]

I'm doing a dash swap with all new gauges this weekend, my current fuel and temp gauges don't work. If I find a reason why this weekend I'll be sure to post.

 

[gerth21]

So I wired up the new dash with all new OEM style gauges and I still don't have the fuel and temp. That is not a surprise to me but now my cluster light don't work when plugged in all the way. If I pull it half out the light right up. Will be working on it again tonight and will update later, hopefully I figure out the problem.

 

[IOPort51]

When I finely got the fuel gauge to work I discovered that my diagram had the wires switched. the pink was hot and the red was going to the tank. You may want to spend a little quality time with a volt meter and make sure everything is as it should be.

 

[jasonmark1993]

I think the factory lights ground through the socket. Must not be making a good ground when you push them in all the way.

A quick way to see if the gauges and wire from the tank/temp sender are intact is to remove the wire from the fuel sender/temp sender and ground it. If things are working right, you'll peg the gauge. You have to have the key on.

Make sure you have key on power at the back of the gauge. Check the grounds and use a voltmeter to check for continuity in the wires to the senders. Grounds are usually the problem so I'd start there, especially on those two gauges. On my 73, the grounds ran through a metal tab built into the gauge cluster; not sure if yours is like that.

 

[njdave]

Check the ground. Use a jumper to ground the gauges to the negative on the battery. If they start working there is ur problem.


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[Turbogus]

When I cleaned up the speedometer cluster (oxidation issues/bad ground) on 'Betty' I had a bad temp gauge so I swapped out the sender and gauge but still had an issue. Then I happened upon John Strenks writeup about the quirky gauges (a lift of the lynch lid to John Strenk)

Basic Troubleshooting for CJ gauges

CJ Gauge Specification Chart

CJ Speedometer Gauge Quick Test

The new Gauge Page

After getting into the fuel and temp gauges again, I found that it was the new, Crown gauges that were corrupt. So I went down to Mac's Jeeparts in Corvallis OR (Peoria Road) picked up a pair of NOS gauges, wired 'em in and wha~la they've been workin' ever since. I suppose either I goofed the original install or the Crown gauges were manufactured in Lower Slovobia or somewheres.

 

[bondo258]

I've installed Crown gauges and never had an issue (three different jeeps)

People hate crown/omix gauges because (unknowingly to many) they are nearly identical to factory parts. CJ gauge stuff was always pretty sketchy from the showroom floor.

Mis-center an OEM gauge in the speedo house, it can ground out and burn, same as "imports".

Install wires wrong, even for a second, same thing. or worse.

No ground to case when "testing" same thing.

Fuel sender not grounded, same thing.

Gauge isn't very accurate? Your 195 degree thermostat equipped motor reads hot on a sender that has to be compatible with years equipped with lower temp motors?

What did you expect?

Fuel gauge One part number for different size tanks. Same thing.

The final adjustment on a fuel sender is the Float linkage. PS it can take up to five MINUTES for the gauge to catch up to what the Sender is at. It takes a while to heat the bi-metal up, and to let it cool to the proper range. Have trouble with final adjustment? That's why.

The Venerable Mr. Stenk has saved me hours of heartache. I am eternally grateful for his procedures and descriptions. He knows his stuff. His stuff is accurate.

That said...

Some stuff is still hard learned.

 

[Turbogus]

I'm not knocking Crown just yet, but I am a bit dubious and as for me, if I can get NOS that's what I'll likely go with.

 

[bondo258]

If I had access to inexpensive, new Stewart-Warner gauges, I would have used them. aftermarket ones look different.

That said, I would never use a omix-ada fuel sender unless I HAD to. Bad out of the box, and short lifespans.
Crown gauges are OK. A little easier to mis-center in the speedo housing, than OEM, which causes a short. Take your time and check your work (it's electrical, I always try to check before powering up) and no problem.

Amazing how many people slam the gauges, when they wire stuff wrong.

Most gauge threads point to not knowing "The Stenk Method", or a PO's wiring nightmare. Nobody ever blames "stock gauges" when installed wrong. It's a "oh well, gotta buy another set of OEM's" deal.
Crown stuff is ok, IMHO, across the board. The plastic stuff sometimes need tweaking, the Asian Metric hardware on miscellaneous stuff like mirrors and steering shafts is a little odd, but can be remedied easily. They fit fine without altering anything.

12MM wrench for an 8MM thread? Not on my Jeep. Euro Metric 13MM is close enough to 1/2 inch for me and my purposes. Or I sawap in a Standard bolt on unthreaded holes. I yank every bolt and cover with anti-seize anyhow. A stop at the hardware store isn't too much of a hardship.

A new bolt and nut or re-tapping a thread is easy enough. I'd rather not have to do that, of course.

 

[OLD 9]

http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.strenk/Gauge%20web%20page/basic_troubleshooting_for_cj_gau.htm

http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.strenk/Gauge%20web%20page/CJSpeedometerGaugeQuickTest.htm

Red=12v in
Pink=fuel
Purple=Temp

 

[pmurray]

New at this forum stuff but I've been wrenching for 40 years. My 79 CJ7 doesn't have a gas gauge that works, tried to follow all of John Strenk's post on Jeep gauges and came to the conclusion that I have a freak. My gas gauge only has two post on the back not three. It has an S and an I terminal but not an A terminal. Can someone out there tell me anything as to why no A terminal. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[BusaDave9]

Common problem for fuel and temp to stop working together. They both use the voltage regulator in the fuel gauge.

If you fix the fuel gauge the temp will then work also.

concentrate on the power and voltage to the fuel.

You've already been given this link but here it is again.
Basic Troubleshooting for CJ gauges

 

[pmurray]

Thanks Busadave9 but I have that drawing but I only have 2 terminals on the back not 3 terminals. Can't figure out why. Any one ever seen a gauge like this ??

 

[BusaDave9]

Thanks Busadave9 but I have that drawing but I only have 2 terminals on the back not 3 terminals. Can't figure out why. Any one ever seen a gauge like this ??

Don't you have a short connection between the fuel and temp gauges like this?

 

[grozam]

Your gauge might not be stock and can work independently of a temp gauge, so it wouldn't need the third connection.

 

[pmurray]

My gauge has two terminals and the voltage reducer is connected between the I terminal on the fuel gauge and the A terminal of the temp gauge. Could this be wrong ??

 

[grozam]

My gauge has two terminals and the voltage reducer is connected between the I terminal on the fuel gauge and the A terminal of the temp gauge. Could this be wrong ??

The I terminal is supposted to be hot and the A is a ground, so that could be your problem>