fuel injectioning the AMC 304

[GatorBate]

Ya, Howell wanted me to buy a harness from them for $325.00. I do the protective relying and control panels for the local power co. A small 36 wire, wire harness didn't seem worth $325 to me. But that's just me.
As for the VSS, I have not got to that yet. From what I understand It cut the fuel when you decelerate and leans it out when you are cursing at highway speeds for better mileage and something about Idle mode and a few other things that have not been able to find any info on. I don't mind a little back firing through the glass packs as I slow down (I am a noisy child after all) and I don't do a lot of highway traveling with the CJ5 , so gas mileage is not that big of an issue to me. Oh, and I don't have cruse control. However I see JTR makes one for $75 that works with the Dana 300 that I am looking at.

 

[tmkyle]

the alternative with the wiring was more for everyone following the thread I assumed that since you already had yours running you figured it out. I think it was a great write up, someday i will convert mine to efi not sure if i will go with tbi or some sort of a pieced together multi port setup either way thanks for all the great info.

 

[speedextreme]

Awesome write up! In fact after searching for days this is the only Jeep AMC 304 write up I have found. I am doing this mod very soon. So hopefully I will remember to do a write up and take many pics.

THANK YOU!!!!!!

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

Ya, Howell wanted me to buy a harness from them for $325.00. I do the protective relying and control panels for the local power co. A small 36 wire, wire harness didn't seem worth $325 to me. But that's just me.
As for the VSS, I have not got to that yet. From what I understand It cut the fuel when you decelerate and leans it out when you are cursing at highway speeds for better mileage and something about Idle mode and a few other things that have not been able to find any info on. I don't mind a little back firing through the glass packs as I slow down (I am a noisy child after all) and I don't do a lot of highway traveling with the CJ5 , so gas mileage is not that big of an issue to me. Oh, and I don't have cruse control. However I see JTR makes one for $75 that works with the Dana 300 that I am looking at.

Gator, how many pulses does the VSS need to be? I have a 4k pulse vss from my failed TPI project. It is JTR and will work with your Dana 300 . I can get it to you for half the price as it is doing me no good.

I also have a new APU1 programmer set up from Moates.net I will no longer be using, it should be the kit you need to eventually do your own programming and chip burning, they go for 330 new but like I said I have no current or future need for the TPI stuff.

TPI and TBI are very related systems and have alot of interchangeable parts.

 

[GatorBate]

Gator, how many pulses does the VSS need to be? I have a 4k pulse vss from my failed TPI project. It is JTR and will work with your Dana 300 . I can get it to you for half the price as it is doing me no good.

I also have a new APU1 programmer set up from Moates.net I will no longer be using, it should be the kit you need to eventually do your own programming and chip burning, they go for 330 new but like I said I have no current or future need for the TPI stuff.

TPI and TBI are very related systems and have alot of interchangeable parts.

Thanks Guy, But it looks like in 89 they used the 2k pulse then changed to the 4k in 90. Mine came off an 89 GMC 2500 so I think I need the 2k Vss. After I rebuilt my AMC 304 the ecm makes very few corrections so, I not sure if I will bother reprogramming it. But I will keep you in mind. I will probably find a reason the day after you sell it to someone else.

 

[bzahler]

This thread is great! I just picked up everything from a 1987 full size van for $20.00. :drool:

 

[dschwab]

I just picked up the TBI and Computer this weekend. I am very interested in pictures. Ill be watching!

 

[GatorBate]

I've been running this TBI setup for a while now.I actually did this two years ago. If you want pictures pm me. I can always take new ones if I need to.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I've been running this TBI setup for a while now.I actually did this two years ago. If you want pictures pm me. I can always take new ones if I need to.

This something that you should post so everybody can benefit from it.

 

[GatorBate]

Give me a few days and I will put together some pictures.

 

[GatorBate]

Here are a few pictures of the "finish product". Is it ever really finished?

The first picture is just a view of the TBI setup.

Second picture, This plate was on the 89 GMC in the same spot. It held only the MAP sensor. I moved the MAP back and put my ignition module out of the GM distributor on it too.

Third picture, from left to right. I have the knock sensor module behind the battery. The donor truck had a power distribution bar. It came in handy. Next to the drain pipe is the fuel pump relay ( it has a white tab on it) and on the right is the fuel pump fuse.

Third picture, you can see where I removed the [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Thermo Valve next to t[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][FONT=&quot][FONT=Arial, Helvetica][FONT=&quot][/FONT]he oil filler tube and replaced it with the temperature sensor. Also note that I used the GM coil. The green wire from the coil goes to the tech.

The last picture shows where I found power to run the system. This is the plug for the old ignition system. The red wire is ignition power for the system. (C16) The blue wire is hot while cranking. (C9)on the ECM.
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

 

[GatorBate]

The first picture is the knock sensor. There is a drain plug in the block behind the starter. I drilled it out and retreaded it for the knock sensor. There is one on the other side of the engine too. I wanted to keep everything on the right hand side of the engine so I used this one.

Second picture. The O2 sensor. Because it is so far from the exhaust valves I had to use a three wire sensor. The two extra wires are for a heater. Apparently it has to be 600° to work. The connector is a four wire trailer light plug. I stopped by a muffler shop and ask for a bung for an O2 sensor. That turned out to be easier than the auto part store.

Third picture. I put my fuel pump in the that hollow between the rear inner fender and the tail light with a fuel filter between it and the tank.

Forth picture, This is where I came through the firewall with the wire harness from the ECM. I used a heat gun to soften up the glue inside the plastic wire guard that I took from the donor truck so I could clean it out and reuse it.

Fifth picture, The ECM mounted on top of the heater

 

[GatorBate]

I have the ECM controlling the ignition and spark advance. So I striped all the vacuum advance stuff out of the distributor and welded it all together. Pictures one and two.

Third picture, Removed the vacuum advance and filled up its hole with silicone. Then drilled a long hole in the distributor sensor plate so I could adjust the rotor phasing.

Forth picture, cut a hole in a cap so you can see the rotor. Connect the wires to it and start the engine. use a timming light check where the roter is when it fires. Move the distributor sensor plate until the rotor is on lagging side of the post and moves to the leading side as engines RPMs increase. Rotor Phasing. I think TeamRush did a write up on that subject. http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/problems-931/


This wiring diagram of the 1227747 ECM came in handy

 

[bzahler]

I like how you mounted the map sensor and ing. module. Don't you have problems with the fuel pump that high? I thought they had to be low so they have more head pressure?