Fuel issue

[dtrojcak]

So far, he has added a small electric fuel pump on two of them....uses a toggle switch to turn them on a few seconds, then back off, vehicles start right up.

Remove the carb and remove the air horn, add fuel ( while on the bench ) and see if you have a leak. This way you will know. Then build the carb ensuring correct float height....can't hurt. Hang in and keep us posted. Many of us are curious....

Adding a small pump on a switch is what I was originally considering.
Turn it on for a few seconds, turn it off, then crank.
The engine would be running off of just the mechanical pump like normal after startup.

It may be a while before I have time to do anything to/with the carb.
I've got about a dozen different projects going, plus it's a little cold now, and I don't have a shop/garage yet(one of those projects, lol).

But I will update this thread with whatever I find at that time.

Thanks to everyone who gave helpful advice.
I greatly appreciate it.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do note, that the leak'n fuel out of the carb is going into the crankcase and mix'n with the engine's oil.
LG

 

[dtrojcak]

Do note, that the leak'n fuel out of the carb is going into the crankcase and mix'n with the engine's oil.

LG

I was under the impression that the fuel would leak into the intake manifold and possibly a cylinder.
Where would it make it into the crankcase?

 

[Hedgehog]

Here's a thought and Yes I know it's simply crazy, could you be actually flooding your engine? Occasionally I do it to my CJ. Usually I've been working on it, started it then shut her down. 5 minutes later I jump in pump the gas pedal a few times then she won't start. Once I realize it, the pedal goes straight to the floor she starts, white smoke and she stumbles for a few seconds then runs well from then on.

 

[Fastatv]

I was under the impression that the fuel would leak into the intake manifold and possibly a cylinder.
Where would it make it into the crankcase?

Lumpy is correct here ( or I agree ). If the fuel ( enough fuel ) leaks out of the carb and into the intake, it can then leak down into the crank case via the piston rings, then diluting the crankcase oil by decreasing the oil viscosity. Over a period of time, without an oil change, this could also damage an engine.

 

[dtrojcak]

Here's a thought and Yes I know it's simply crazy, could you be actually flooding your engine? Occasionally I do it to my CJ. Usually I've been working on it, started it then shut her down. 5 minutes later I jump in pump the gas pedal a few times then she won't start. Once I realize it, the pedal goes straight to the floor she starts, white smoke and she stumbles for a few seconds then runs well from then on.

Once it starts, it will start fine for about 24 hours. Hit the key and it fires right up. I can see fuel in the clear filter.
If it sits for 2 or more days, it takes a while to fire up. The clear filter is empty before the key is turned.

Lumpy is correct here ( or I agree ). If the fuel ( enough fuel ) leaks out of the carb and into the intake, it can then leak down into the crank case via the piston rings, then diluting the crankcase oil by decreasing the oil viscosity. Over a period of time, without an oil change, this could also damage an engine.

That makes sense, thanks for the clarification.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I kind of liked the idea of taking the carb off after running it and putting it on the bench and see if the gas is leaking out of it. Then if it is you can see where it's leaking from and it's already off for a rebuild.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Doesn't take much to leak past the ring gaps as 'thin' a fuel is.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

"Once it starts, it will start fine for about 24 hours. Hit the key and it fires right up. I can see fuel in the clear filter.
If it sits for 2 or more days, it takes a while to fire up. The clear filter is empty before the key is turned."


Yep, I do read what you write and have written. Having an empty fuel filter does not mean you have an empty carb. float bowl. I might have missed this though. Before starting, have you actually taken the cover off the float bowl to see if there is any gas in there? If there isn't any gas in the float bowl there are only a few possibilities. The fuel is leaking past the needle valve, there is a crack in the bowl or the fuel is leaking past the main jets. Have you changed the needle and the floats? Floats can become saturated with fuel.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The fuel that leaks past the rings is washing the oil off the cyl wall and filling the oil ring with gas. Bottom line is the cyl wall is DRY with no remaining lube.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Also, I'm not exactly sure why fuel would evaporate from your CJ any faster than it does from anyone elses. Sputtering for a few seconds means a flooded engine to me. But, I am thinking that you really want to put a fuel pump on your CJ. If that is the case Maybe it will fix your problem.

 

[Hedgehog]

Okay so I talked to Rob at Willys Works about your problem. He says that it is happening more and more frequently and at least some of it is related to the blend of fuel we are now forced to use. This causes rubber to fail and fuel to evaporate quicker than it used to. He has also seen carbs like yours have extremely small cracks in the float bowl. One interesting way to find out if you have a crack is to:

Remove your carb and clean it. Put down some white paper towels. Set up a stand of sorts to elevate the now clean carb. Fill the float bowl with ..... wait for it ..... Anti freeze. Anti freeze will find the cracks, if there are any, and leak. The white paper towels will show the green of the antifreeze. He learned this trick from a long time carb. man.

 

[hdgapeach]

Been reading the thread as it's progressed. Your problem is exactly what my '68 Chevy C10 with a 350 and Edelbrock carb had going on just a few months ago.

Long story short: Rebuild the carburetor! And I mean really do it right. Check specs on everything. My E-brock was so bad I ended up replacing it with another one I had sitting on the shelf in the shop. My shafts were wobbly and everything else was deteriorated. It was just wore slap out. After I rebuilt the original one, it would run but it also would puke gas out of everywhere possible. The new fuel pump (manual) probably didn't help that issue much. The replacement (also used) solved the problem instantly.

Runs like a champ with the replacement bolted on. Since then, I have added a fuel return line to the fuel line just before the fuel inlet on the carb (and after the filter). I'm hoping that'll eliminate the famous Chevy vapor lock syndrome (in summer).

Good luck! And don't be surprised if you need to replace the carb with a new one.