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Fuel Pressure Issue

Fuel Pressure Issue

flyer92

Jeeper
Posts
40
Thanks
2
Location
California
Vehicle(s)
'80 CJ-5, 258, T176, D300, AMC20, D30
I have been tinkering around with the fuel tank vent system for the past 25 years or so. Having made various changes to try and simplify with poor results. I installed the DeLorean rollover check valve to replace the oem version also, even going as far as having one for each of the fuel tank vent lines. I am finally back to the complete oem vent system which seems to work best. I think that the oem liquid check valve is the critical item in that system. Fuel tank venting is pretty critical for me as I have throttle body injection with an external fuel pump.
 
Thanks, Torx. To be clear, what other components are installed in the venting system, other than the check valve?
 
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Well for starters, a fuel tank vent system layout will be in a fsm or most repair manuals, even online. I think that the charcoal cannister would be better bet than what you have pictured. Going up the line is the rollover check valve, like what you already have. I am pretty sure that it is a back up to the liquid check valve. The LCV has two hose inlets for the fuel tank vent tubes and an outlet to the rollover check valve. I have filled up my charcoal cannister with gas a couple of times during a few of my vent system "modifications". With the oem setup, I did tip my CJ on its side and found out that it works quite well. With a few helping hands, I was able to put the dirty side down and it fired right up.

Edit: The LCV and rollover check valve are located next to each other up underneath the left rear quarter panel. Where they work best.
 
Are you sure it's not coming from the fuel filter?
May I ask-how do you get that SMOG'D every 2 yrs, with that setup? :confused:

LG
 
Lumpy...luckily, my vehicle is registered in Florida, where we don't have emissions inspections. If that were the case, my CJ would fail miserably!

Thanks, Torx. I am familiar with the fuel system layout, and have the requisite schematics/manuals. Was just curious what you have in your specific configuration, so apologies if i wasn't clear on that.

Unfortunately, I can't find a new LCV, and the used ones I got from a local junkyard and JW's were brittle, cracking, and not very reliable. If you or anyone else have an idea on where I can find something suitable, I'm all ears!
 
Or these folks should have what your looking for too: mtscompany.com
I haven't ordered from them yet but will when I start working on my fuel system.
 
Thanks, Torx. I think I will keep that setup in my back pocket as a last resort, as I'd prefer to keep it simple and stick with an original configuration (or as close to it as I can get). Looks like the aftermarket LCV I had in my last pic is the same thing that MTS is selling, so perhaps that solved the problem.

Although not installed, I actually have the original charcoal canister, but I'm sure it needs new innards. That may be my next project, but need to solve the valve issue first, or I'll risk having fuel drip inside a newly-refreshed canister. Ugh...the horror never ends!
 
As expected, Willysworks didn't have the LCV in stock and directed me to MTS. Although I already have the valve they are selling, I called them anyway and learned that the valve is intended to replace both the LCV and RCV. Unfortunately, that valve alone just didn't work out, which is why I am now using it along with an OEM RCV, per my last photo. All seems to be OK for the moment, but there's no knowing if the valves are working as intended, or just serving as a place for fuel to collect. Will continue to monitor this before adding the charcoal canister to the mix, and will also need to refresh the internals on that too. I'd appreciate any advice or links on that project, as I'm sure many of you have already done it. Thanks in advance, and will keep you posted on how this valve config works out.
 
Looking at YouTube, there seems to be a lot of postings on rebuilding them. I am sure those valves are designed just to let the gas fumes through and not the liquid gas which can happen if not set up right. Then the charcoal takes over, on my oem cannister, there is a vacuum port that does draw the fumes into it also. I once sent my cannister to a guy who rebuilds them. The smog guy I go to says the oem cannister is required, although he has passed me using an aftermarket one.
 
Thanks, Torx. Agree that the valves should only be allowing gas fumes thru at a specific PSI, but I'm not certain that they aren't just collecting liquid gas. Each valve by themselves let liquid thru, so who's to say that using both of them in series is really any better? Good to know that the original canister is required too. I once (foolishly) considered selling mine on eBay, but so glad I held onto it, even though it is serving as a paperweight right now!
 
Another thing is that they should be mounted as high as possible underneath that left rear quarter panel. So that gravity can help keep the liquid fuel out of the valves.
 
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