Gearing and lockers mod

[derf]

Well I just ordered my Aussie lockers both front and rear; still trying to find a T-18 but at least now I'm on my way. I would say I'm an average shade tree mechanic but have never dealt with gears; what am I in for with putting these lunch-box lockers in?

I used to have some pictures of when I did mine but I can't find them.

It's pretty straightforward.

First, drain the diff by removing the cover with a catch basin underneath.

Second, you have to pull the axle shafts. On the front, this involves pulling the spindles off which is time consuming but not difficult. It's a good time to repack the bearings when you put them back together. On the rear, you have to pull the brake backing plate bolts on either side. You may need a slide hammer to pop the axles free or they may slide out easily. You don't have to pull them far.

You don't absolutely have to pull the differential to put the locker in but it's so much easier.

Before you take off the bearing caps, mark them so you get them put back exactly the same way you took them off. I used a silver sharipe marker.

Undo the bolts and set the bearing caps aside.

To get the diff to come out, I put a wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and a screwdriver end between two teeth. It didn't take much force to get the carrier to slide out.

When they do come out, be very careful to not drop parts everywhere. The bearing races and shims will fall everywhere. And being steel, the carrier is heavy for its size. Not terrible but if you're at an awkward angle it's uncomfortable to hold up. It does help to have a second set of hands to catch everything. Make absolutely sure you keep the shims on the correct side so you can put them back exactly how they came out.

Now is a good time to use brake parts cleaner to hose out the differential and clean off the carrier. Don't be afraid to use too much.

Take your carrier to a bench to work on it.

You have to remove the pin that holds the spider gears in. On the Dana 44 it was a bolt with a really small head. On the AMC20 and Dana 30 it may be a pin you have to drive out with a drift. I don't know for sure.

Once you push the main pin out, the spider gears will rotate around and come out of the hole.

Follow the instructions that come with your locker to put it in the carrier.

Take the carrier back to the axle. Put some gear oil on the bearings before you put it back together, put the bearing races and shims back in place the way they came out. Put the carrier back in. You may need a rubber mallet to convince it to seat. Don't smash it but don't just tap it lightly either. Put the bearing caps back in place and torque them to spec. I don't have a factory manual on me but a quick internet search says that Dana 30 bearing caps torque to 50-60 ft lb depending on the source. The AMC20 gets 87 ft lb. Be sure to torque them in stages. I do it in 10 ft lb increments. So for the Dana 30 I'd start at 30, do all 4, step up to 40, do all 4 again, step up to 50, etc.

With the Transmission in neutral, spin the drive shaft to make sure everything spins correctly. If the carrier is not in straight, it won't spin right. If it is, it will spin with some resistance but not too much. This is why you put a little gear oil on the bearings, so they don't grind when you try them out.

Slide the axle shafts back in and make sure they engage fully. For the front, you have to put the spindle back on and re-mount the brakes/drive hubs with fresh grease in the bearings. For the rear, you may or may not have to pack the bearing with grease depending on whether or not it had an inner seal. Once you get that figured out, it is easy to just bolt the brake plate and everything back on.

Once you get everything back together, make sure again that it all spins correctly before you get the tires back on the ground.

Don't forget to fill the differential with gear oil.

Once you have it back on the ground and filled with oil, take it for a test drive.

 

[Mr Twisty]

I used to have some pictures of when I did mine but I can't find them.

It's pretty straightforward.

First, drain the diff by removing the cover with a catch basin underneath.

Second, you have to pull the axle shafts. On the front, this involves pulling the spindles off which is time consuming but not difficult. It's a good time to repack the bearings when you put them back together. On the rear, you have to pull the brake backing plate bolts on either side. You may need a slide hammer to pop the axles free or they may slide out easily. You don't have to pull them far.

You don't absolutely have to pull the differential to put the locker in but it's so much easier.

Before you take off the bearing caps, mark them so you get them put back exactly the same way you took them off. I used a silver sharipe marker.

Undo the bolts and set the bearing caps aside.

To get the diff to come out, I put a wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and a screwdriver end between two teeth. It didn't take much force to get the carrier to slide out.

When they do come out, be very careful to not drop parts everywhere. The bearing races and shims will fall everywhere. And being steel, the carrier is heavy for its size. Not terrible but if you're at an awkward angle it's uncomfortable to hold up. It does help to have a second set of hands to catch everything. Make absolutely sure you keep the shims on the correct side so you can put them back exactly how they came out.

Now is a good time to use brake parts cleaner to hose out the differential and clean off the carrier. Don't be afraid to use too much.

Take your carrier to a bench to work on it.

You have to remove the pin that holds the spider gears in. On the Dana 44 it was a bolt with a really small head. On the AMC20 and Dana 30 it may be a pin you have to drive out with a drift. I don't know for sure.

Once you push the main pin out, the spider gears will rotate around and come out of the hole.

Follow the instructions that come with your locker to put it in the carrier.

Take the carrier back to the axle. Put some gear oil on the bearings before you put it back together, put the bearing races and shims back in place the way they came out. Put the carrier back in. You may need a rubber mallet to convince it to seat. Don't smash it but don't just tap it lightly either. Put the bearing caps back in place and torque them to spec. I don't have a factory manual on me but a quick internet search says that Dana 30 bearing caps torque to 50-60 ft lb depending on the source. The AMC20 gets 87 ft lb. Be sure to torque them in stages. I do it in 10 ft lb increments. So for the Dana 30 I'd start at 30, do all 4, step up to 40, do all 4 again, step up to 50, etc.

With the Transmission in neutral, spin the drive shaft to make sure everything spins correctly. If the carrier is not in straight, it won't spin right. If it is, it will spin with some resistance but not too much. This is why you put a little gear oil on the bearings, so they don't grind when you try them out.

Slide the axle shafts back in and make sure they engage fully. For the front, you have to put the spindle back on and re-mount the brakes/drive hubs with fresh grease in the bearings. For the rear, you may or may not have to pack the bearing with grease depending on whether or not it had an inner seal. Once you get that figured out, it is easy to just bolt the brake plate and everything back on.

Once you get everything back together, make sure again that it all spins correctly before you get the tires back on the ground.

Don't forget to fill the differential with gear oil.

Once you have it back on the ground and filled with oil, take it for a test drive.

Thanks for the great info, I will definitely take this post out in the garage with me

 

[Mr Twisty]

Well I said I would give a step by step process for installing the Aussie lockers and I am keeping my word:

Step 1. Take jeep to local 4x4 shop
Step 2. Hand them the keys and the lockers to be installed
Step 3. Take the remainder of the day and enjoy a couple cold ones and watch some late season baseball.

Step 4. Head back to local 4x4 shop
Step 5. Swipe credit card for $300.00
Step 6. Head to the mountains with a big smile on my face.

Honestly I did start the install myself but quickly realized though I could more than likely do it I felt for the price of the local shop I might as well have them do it and know it was done correctly.

Sorry guys, maybe the next mod I will take on in the garage

 

[Old Dog]

Honestly I did start the install myself but quickly realized though I could more than likely do it I felt for the price of the local shop I might as well have them do it and know it was done correctly.

At least you hope they were done correctly.
Thats why I do it myself, that way I KNOW it was done correctly.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[derf]

Well I said I would give a step by step process for installing the Aussie lockers and I am keeping my word:

Step 1. Take jeep to local 4x4 shop
Step 2. Hand them the keys and the lockers to be installed
Step 3. Take the remainder of the day and enjoy a couple cold ones and watch some late season baseball.

Step 4. Head back to local 4x4 shop
Step 5. Swipe credit card for $300.00
Step 6. Head to the mountains with a big smile on my face.

Honestly I did start the install myself but quickly realized though I could more than likely do it I felt for the price of the local shop I might as well have them do it and know it was done correctly.

Sorry guys, maybe the next mod I will take on in the garage

As long as you can trust your local garage, that's not a bad option. Still, I have everything I need to do it right myself and I prefer that option.

 

[Mr Twisty]

Well I got my T-18 tranny today; confirmed it has the 6.32 ratio. It has the 1" adapter plate on the back end to mate up to the Dana 20 . Any hints, tricks or tips on making this an easy swap from the T-150 with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ? Also going to change out the clutch while I'm at it since I cooked it on the last rock crawl trip, any suggestions on a decent clutch. Shouldn't have to worry about slippn the clutch so much now with the T-18 gearing.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Well I got my T-18 tranny today; confirmed it has the 6.32 ratio. It has the 1" adapter plate on the back end to mate up to the Dana 20 . Any hints, tricks or tips on making this an easy swap from the T-150 with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ? Also going to change out the clutch while I'm at it since I cooked it on the last rock crawl trip, any suggestions on a decent clutch. Shouldn't have to worry about slippn the clutch so much now with the T-18 gearing.

This about sums it all up:

http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/cjt18/

The adaptor at the back of the Jeep T-18 is really a part of the Transmission

 

[BusaDave9]

For a clutch get a Centerforce II. It's a very heavy duty clutch that will stand up to many years of abuse.
Centerforce makes several good clutches. Other choices they make are the Centerforce I but that not as heavy duty. They also make the Centerforce DualFriction that is popular with hot rodders. The DualFriction clutch is a high performance clutch for high horsepower engines and the strip. I think it would be overkill for what you are doing.

 

[Mr Twisty]

Thanks for the info guys. My plan is to pull the motor while I'm at it and put a new oil pan gasket on and other odds and ends so I'm going to take my time especially since I need to save up a couple bucks again to have the driveshafts resized. Again thanks for the info

 

[Mr Twisty]

Not to stir up a hornets nest or anything but I was just wondering if anyone has heard of rather than modifying the drive shafts if instead there were fabricated motor mounts to move the motor forward to make up the size difference of the T-150 to the T-18 swap.. Just a thought, nothing more.

 

[BusaDave9]

No
You dont want to move the motor. That will be more work and expense.
In your case you would have to move the motor 3.5 inches to the front.
Move the radiator. Move the grill. Extent the hood and fenders ect. ect.
Go to Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts for heavy duty drive shafts at a very low price.

 

[Mr Twisty]

No
You dont want to move the motor. That will be more work and expense.
In your case you would have to move the motor 3.5 inches to the front.
Move the radiator. Move the grill. Extent the hood and fenders ect. ect.
Go to Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts for heavy duty drive shafts at a very low price.

That's what I was thinking, just thought I would see if it was even an option. I put a v8 into a older s10 and the main mod I had to fab was new motor mounts.

 

[Mr Twisty]

Ok I've got my old T-150 and Dana 20 out, couple questions I have to start (I know there will be several more to come).

This T-18 is the ford version with the 6.32 granny, 6 1/2" shaft, I know I can get the pilot bushing for the difference but..

1. Do I use the Transfer Case input gear from the T-150 or do I need a different one, common sense says I can use the T-150 one.

2. The back of the T-18 has the 1" plate and the holes line up for the tranny and Transfer Case but just checking to see if things were going to mate up but it seems not to be cooperating; one issue I see is that the shifter on the Transfer Case is hitting the side of the tranny not letting it line up properly.

These are just a couple questions that I see right off the bat here

 

[BusaDave9]

The Ford T-18 won't bolt up to your Dana 20 TCase.
I put a Ford T-18 into an '82 CJ7 but I had to rebuild the T-18 to install a new main shaft from Advanced Adapters. I had a Dana 300 . The important difference is the Ford T-18 has an output shaft that fits into the Transfer Case . Your Dana 20 needs a gear sticking out of the tranny to drive the TCase.
A Ford T-18 can be installed into a Jeep with a Dana 300 if you buy an adapter and the T-18 main shaft. A Jeep T-18 would have been much easier since you have a Dana 20 TCase.
Call up Advanced Adapters.
Another option is to get a ford TCase that mates up to the T-18 you have. A ford T-18 will bolt up to a Jeep bellhousing. You just need a ford clutch plate and a jeep pressure plate.

 

[Mr Twisty]

The Ford T-18 won't bolt up to your Dana 20 TCase.
I put a Ford T-18 into an '82 CJ7 but I had to rebuild the T-18 to install a new main shaft from Advanced Adapters. I had a Dana 300 . The important difference is the Ford T-18 has an output shaft that fits into the Transfer Case . Your Dana 20 needs a gear sticking out of the tranny to drive the TCase.
A Ford T-18 can be installed into a Jeep with a Dana 300 if you buy an adapter and the T-18 main shaft. A Jeep T-18 would have been much easier since you have a Dana 20 TCase.
Call up Advanced Adapters.
Another option is to get a ford TCase that mates up to the T-18 you have. A ford T-18 will bolt up to a Jeep bellhousing. You just need a ford clutch plate and a jeep pressure plate.

Well your just full of good news Not sure why I was so dead set on keeping the Dana 20 , I do have a Dana 300 so I guess that will be my route; I think I'll have to do a little mod to the tunnel but nothing major

 

[BusaDave9]

Well your just full of good news

Look at it this way: with that Dana 300 you will get lower gearing - 2.6 to 1 instead of 2 to 1. And lower gearing was your main concern at the beginning of this thread.
A T-18 mated up to a Dana 300 makes for an excellent drive train. Strong, durable and low gearing.

 

[Mr Twisty]

Look at it this way: with that Dana 300 you will get lower gearing - 2.6 to 1 instead of 2 to 1. And lower gearing was your main concern at the beginning of this thread.
A T-18 mated up to a Dana 300 makes for an excellent drive train. Strong, durable and low gearing.

Before I go grab this Transfer Case out of our shop in Neb. is there a particular year or such I should be looking for in regards the Dana 300 mating up with the Ford T-18 . Ours is out of our wrecked 81 scrambler and the Transfer Case is about all that's left on that rig

 

[BusaDave9]

An '81 scrambler will have a Dana 300 TCase. That's the same as what I mated to a ford T-18 . But I'm not the expert. The experts are at Advanced Adapters. Call them at 800-350-2223.
When I put in a ford T8 I bought an Advanced Adapters kit. There are other companies that make such a kit. You could also call Novak at 435.753.2513. The kit includes a new main (output) shaft for the T-18 plus an adapter to mate up to the Dana 300 .
Tell Novak or Advanced Adapters what you have and what you want to do. Make sure you have all the facts strait before you spend any time or money. These guys will make sure your project completes without any surprises.

 

[Mr Twisty]

An '81 scrambler will have a Dana 300 TCase. That's the same as what I mated to a ford T-18 . But I'm not the expert. The experts are at Advanced Adapters. Call them at 800-350-2223.
When I put in a ford T8 I bought an Advanced Adapters kit. There are other companies that make such a kit. You could also call Novak at 435.753.2513. The kit includes a new main (output) shaft for the T-18 plus an adapter to mate up to the Dana 300 .
Tell Novak or Advanced Adapters what you have and what you want to do. Make sure you have all the facts strait before you spend any time or money. These guys will make sure your project completes without any surprises.

A thousand thanks I'll give them a call tomorrow. From my research on their sites they both have the kit I'm after, just have to save a couple more dollars that's all.

 

[Mr Twisty]

Man talk about a can of worms, I talked with Novak today and they seem to think that I have the T-18 out of a cj; the bellhouse bolt pattern lines up and so does the bolt pattern to the Dana 20 and it came with the 1" plate on the back; but I am concerned that it may be that of a scout but get conflicting data on this. Some sites say the scout T-18 never had the 6.32 ratio and others do, my T-18 has it. Also my reverse is up by 3rd and has a reverse ratio of 7.44. Any thoughts???