H.E.I. swap problem

[sapulpa cj]

can someone help please.


i swapped out the distributor for a hei and now it will run fine with the vacume advance unhooked but wont run for snit with it hooked up?


i have the vacume hose hooked to the same spot as the original distributor?


any help or thoughts will be appreciated.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

well i'd say its not the distributor, at idle the port for the advance shouldn't pull any vacuum, not affecting the timing in any way. i think you might have hooked it back up wrong or the po had it hooked up to the wrong port. you need to get a vac gauge and check the ports on your carb to find out which one pulls a vac at higher rpms, and none at idle.

 

[sapulpa cj]

well i'd say its not the distributor, at idle the port for the advance shouldn't pull any vacuum, not affecting the timing in any way. i think you might have hooked it back up wrong or the po had it hooked up to the wrong port. you need to get a vac gauge and check the ports on your carb to find out which one pulls a vac at higher rpms, and none at idle.

gonna do that tommorow,do you know what port on the carter carb is supposed to be the timed port?

other than this problem the throttle is a lot more responsive with the hei and it does start a lot faster now.

thanks for the help,this poor ol' jeep has been hacked on by the previous owner/owners and there really is not a good base to go by.

gonna be doin a bunch of rewiring tommorow along with doin away with a bunch of unused wiring stuff on the jeep also.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

no man im not sure which it is. i took mine off bout 2yrs ago, haven't messed with one since.

 

[Old Dog]

Are you sure your timing is set right ?
There's people that run full manifold vac. with no problems.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

i was thinking that to. the po might have set the timing with full manifold vac to the old dist. when he set it to the right timing after putting in the hei, and ran full vac to it, it made the vac advance go crazy.

why would anyone run constant vacuum for the advance anyway?

 

[Old Dog]

why would anyone run constant vacuum for the advance anyway?

I can't speek for the jeep I6, but my sbc likes it that way. But you have to set the dist. up a little different.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

never ran one like that before.

 

[sapulpa cj]

got it all worked out today


found the timed port and it runs like a top now,the hei swap is a great mod for shure.


fires right up even when fully cold and even seems to rev a lot better.


thanks for the help fellas,i pulled a lot of ol' unused wiring outta the cj today also.


fixin to start on my custom harness tommorow,who can tell me were the best deal on a universal fuse box is?

 

[73CJ]

Are you sure your timing is set right ?

You have to check the timing when changing the distributor.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

Painless wiring makes a universal harness

Sent from my DROID2

 

[sapulpa cj]

Painless wiring makes a universal harness

Sent from my DROID2

thanks, this jeep has a custom dash with just guages and switches so i am gonna build my own harness for it.

is the painless fuse box about the best bet?

i am also lookin at some marine type boxes that are sealed from moisture.

 

[73CJ]

Check these folks out - http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/46343/MINI FUSE AND MICRO RELAY RTMR/

 

[Cheepjeep85]

hey thats pretty nice, i'm guessing building a wiring harness can get pretty complicated.

 

[sapulpa cj]

hey thats pretty nice, i'm guessing building a wiring harness can get pretty complicated.

it could on a street jeep, but the one i am working on is more aimed towards the trail.


i just have a tach,guages,and switches for things that need to be turned on and off in a custom dash face.


thanks for the link above i will check them out.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

ah thats cool. that won't be to bad then.

 

[73CJ]

Just take on one circuit at a time. Draw them out. Waytek also so has all the terminals, plug ends etc to replace the ones in the harness. You end up doing that anyway with a Painless. All they give you is the fuse panel with one end connected. The easy end. You get $50 worth of product for $200. Not bad profit margin.

There are so many different options when you start modifying a with FI and HEI and 1-wire alternators. Put relays on where needed that the factory never had.

Check it out http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10106.pdf

 

[sapulpa cj]

Just take on one circuit at a time. Draw them out. Waytek also so has all the terminals, plug ends etc to replace the ones in the harness. You end up doing that anyway with a Painless. All they give you is the fuse panel with one end connected. The easy end. You get $50 worth of product for $200. Not bad profit margin.

There are so many different options when you start modifying a with FI and HEI and 1-wire alternators. Put relays on where needed that the factory never had.

Check it out http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10106.pdf

i went ahead and used a 50 amp distribution block to act as the fuse box by using a heavy input wire to make it hot and inline fuses every were a circuit came off the distribution block.

the fuse holders have rubber covers that snap on over the fuse makin them waterproof and the distribution block is made for marine use so it has a weatherproof cover also.

spent most of the day with a soldering iron ,silver solder and weatherproof epoxy filled shrink tubing getting the wires run to were they need to go.

will connect to everything tommorow.


took 15 different colors of wire to make the three harnesses for the rear,underhood/front and dash.

came out really nice and i have them loose bundled with zip ties right now and will cover with split loom once all finished.

this setup is so much simpler than factory,and will be 100 percent weather proof from now on.

only thing is i now have switches for lowbeam,highbeam,left turn,right turn,and dome/dash lights. nothing runs thru the steering column anymore.

i have a main power key switch for security still and two switches for ignition and auxillary power as well as a weather proof push button to start it.


as far as gauges i have a tach,water temp,oil pressure,gas gauge,volt meter,and a hour meter to keep track of service intervals.


i will get pics when i get the dash panel back in and the project wrapped up.

 

[73CJ]

I prefer a fuse panel, not in-line fuses. They remind me of the stock 73 harness. It took forever to figure out which fuse was really bad.

But there are many ways to skin at cat. . .

 

[sapulpa cj]

I prefer a fuse panel, not in-line fuses. They remind me of the stock 73 harness. It took forever to figure out which fuse was really bad.

But there are many ways to skin at cat. . .

yeah a panel would of been great,but weatherproof ones are hard to find and REALLY EXPENSIVE! when ya do find them.

these holders actually work really good as they all come out of one side of the block and are lined up side by side for ease of checkin if neccessary.

the guages i am using are also weatherproof and from murphy guage,these also have minimum settings that can be set so they will shut the jeep down if it getts too hot,looses oil pressure or it getts too low,or it getts below a certain voltage in the battery.

overkill prolly but the guages i had a backdoor source for so i used them,the peace of mind will be nice when out runnin around in the woods so ya dont have to keep watchin what is goin on,the jeep will now self protect itself.