Heater box
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Heater box
- Thread starter rambo
- Start date Start date:
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elwood blues
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 1978 CJ7 4.2L Comp Cam & valve train, MC2100 carb, MSD ignition, Dana 30 front, T18 trans, Dana 20 txfr, AMC 20 rear.
dslywalker
Full Time Jeeper
Anyone have a cure for why the Air-Temp control cable pulls so hard?
Thanx in advance Mike
Sorry about stepping on your thread but you might want to know this also.
Thanx in advance Mike
Sorry about stepping on your thread but you might want to know this also.
IOPort51
NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)
2006 Toyota Tacoma
I have found Triflow lubricant improves the operation of the cables in general, do you have problems with the air -temp damper it self?
I once had a family of mud daubers nest in mine and had to pretty much dismantle the box to clean them out.
I was going to offer pictures of my 77 heater but I am glad EB jumped in because it has no resemblance at all to the 84.
elwood blues
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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There is a second cable that runs from where the dash cable connects to the fresh air vent bypass. That could be seized or the vent door could be seized... Or the pivot point where the air temp cable from the dash connects could be seized too.
BrockGrimes
Jeep-CJ.com Archive Master
I use a quality cable lube used on mountain bikes, it keeps things moving freely.
Sometimes you can get it in the bike section at wallyworld.
Sometimes you can get it in the bike section at wallyworld.
dslywalker
Full Time Jeeper
I had it out and did during the restore process and had acorns shoved in it from ground squirels.Cleaned it up everything worked and looked fine.Pivot bracket works good lubed the cables.It always pulled hard from the factory and dealer said back in 83 it was the length of the cable and they were going to modify it.I think AMC was in trouble then and it got put on the back burner.
I put a aftermarket set in and it pulled hard enough to separate the new cable.I think the length of it and the curve that it runs at has a bit to do with it.Cable pulls good when its out.The inner cable pulls good by itself and when you hook them together the resistance starts.Thanx for the pic EB
Mike
I put a aftermarket set in and it pulled hard enough to separate the new cable.I think the length of it and the curve that it runs at has a bit to do with it.Cable pulls good when its out.The inner cable pulls good by itself and when you hook them together the resistance starts.Thanx for the pic EB
Mike
Last edited:
rambo
Jeeper
Thank you EB for the great picture that is what I needed. I take it that the red lines are my cables? Thanks again.
elwood blues
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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lokobuff
Jeeper
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Straight 6, Dana 44 rear, Dana 30 front.
Excellent picture of the airflow system, thank you Elwood. I'm new to the forum (first post) with a new-to-me 86 CJ7 . From what angle do I need to access this system? Inside the jeep with seats out is my guess? I think the heat/vent cable has become disconnected, as I get no response from the vent box when I pull the knob.
Thanks,
Lokobuff
Thanks,
Lokobuff
elwood blues
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 1978 CJ7 4.2L Comp Cam & valve train, MC2100 carb, MSD ignition, Dana 30 front, T18 trans, Dana 20 txfr, AMC 20 rear.
That picture was taken without the dash panel installed from right over the Transmission hump. So, it's a little decieving.
You can replace all three cables with the dash installed, I did when I first got my CJ. You only have to be a little bit of a contortionist to get at them. It worked best to just remove the passenger seat, lay on your back where the passenger seat was and work on them that way. If you're going to replace one, you might as well replace all three, while you're in there.
Control Cable Kit 5463657K
You can replace all three cables with the dash installed, I did when I first got my CJ. You only have to be a little bit of a contortionist to get at them. It worked best to just remove the passenger seat, lay on your back where the passenger seat was and work on them that way. If you're going to replace one, you might as well replace all three, while you're in there.
Control Cable Kit 5463657K
frhrwa
Jeeper
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- 1984 CJ-7 (just bought it, so I have to do some work and see what it has in it.. other than 4.2L Auto.. 4" lift, 33" tires... my '75 had a 304 2" Burbank supspension, warn winch, full cage, all the goodies, the '79 had a 401 turbo charged hi-po with t98 or 18, which ever one had the granny low first gear (never can remember which).. had all the items needed to 4wheel, none of the show and go poopie.. I don't believe "chrome will get you home"! I'm also not one to go out to see if I can tear up my jeep, I go where I must, usually with a group that I hung with.. Used to be part owner in Diablo Off Road Center in Concord California.. Jack Essex owned Diablo 4WD, George Clause was Mr. Base CAmp, and mine was "Sounds Etc" all under one big roof "the Diablo Off Road Center"..
the resistor pack plug, on the inside of the housing, does it have something that plugs into it? i cannot find a wire group with that plug hanging in there after I removed the heater to put the new blower and core in? didn't want to put this back together to find out I'm missing something.. pita you know..
