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Hello new here and looking for some answers.

Hello new here and looking for some answers.

pgrunt24

Jeeper
Posts
8
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Location
Owensboro, KY
Vehicle(s)
1969 CJ5 225 Buick Dauntless V6
Hi. I actually own a lifted JK, but am here to help my father in law with his build. He is working on his 1969 CJ5 . My wife and I just got him his new glass for his hard top for xmas. We were there yesterday and my boy and grandpa were messing around with the jeep and we got on the conversation of what he still needs to do. I want to help him finish this project. So here is my question.... before he can drive it we need to figure out how he can drive it. He's a navy vet and has a messed up left left, so using the clutch is very very difficult. Option A is install an automatic. Option B is convert it to hydraulic clutch and use a paddle/dash clutch. Trying to find the most economical way with the least amount of parts to switch out way to do this. Any help is greatly appreciated. He doesn't know I am doing this as my wife and I are going to start just surprising him with parts. That way all three of us (him, my boy, and myself) can spend time on the weekends helping him get this thing on the road.

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Sounds like you want to get your father-in-law back in the jeep. Have you considered purchasing a Jeep with an auto already in it? As it would also be more comfortable and easier to drive. Putting an auto in a short CJ would be quite a project. A hydraulic conversion is easiest, but would it really help that much more? Looks like your boy is already planning for his Jeep. My $.02 and welcome to the forum.
 
The CJ7 was introduced by Jeep so that they could offer an automatic in their line-up. The CJ5 was just too short for the long automatic transmissions. That being said, the GM TH350 in a 4x4 configuration can be used in a CJ5 . They usually use an adapter (cheapest on eBay), and the Dana 20 . You would have to rebuild the Transmission (easy to do) and replace the rear output shaft of the Transmission . You can get these from Novak: https://www.novak-adapt.com/ You will also need a special driveshaft from Tom Woods: Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist So the automatic Transmission is not the cheapest route to go but from experience (I to am a Vet with to total knee replacements) will be the best route in the long routs. All that being said, I agree with Torx that maybe selling that Jeep and finding a good CJ7 with an auto in it would be better.

By the way, JK is a bad word around here...:poke: Like the picture too.
 
thank you for the replies. I don't think i'll pry him away from it LOL. I will work it out somehow lol, always do. thinking about hydraulic clutch set up and i will find a set up where i can control the pedal movement to make it shorter. at least i think i will explore that avenue first. we have other things to do until then. first on the list is going to buy him a 2.5" lift since he said he has the "CJ5 lean". guess the springs are wore out.
 
Going to be a project putting an auto into a short CJ5 . As posted, he will end up with a very short rear driveshaft, which may create driveline angle problems. If you go automatic, I'd consider moving the engine forward as far as practical. Does the CJ have the V6?
 
I put the chain drive clutch linkage in my 67 and cured all the issues, ther is a tech article around here somewhere about it

here it is

https://www.jeep-cj.com/articles/chassis-and-body-7/early-cj-5-clutch-linkage-retrofit-14/

it is an advanced adapters kit

I looked at the installation pdf they provide. Not knowing what the pedal pressure is like with this setup, it looks like you could change the size of the chain wheel for better pedal pressure. Correct?
 
The one I looked at had only one chain gear, I don't believe the relative size of that one gear will make a difference on pedal pressure. If it were combines with another gear, I.E. bicycle, there could be a big difference, but you would loose clutch travel relative to pedal travel.

I'd be talking to folks that specialize in handicapped vehicle set up. They must deal with questions like this all the time. Unfortunately I bet they will say, "Use an automatic."
 
I looked at the installation pdf they provide. Not knowing what the pedal pressure is like with this setup, it looks like you could change the size of the chain wheel for better pedal pressure. Correct?
I think the biggest thing is getting rid of all the old sloppy system lowers the pressure a lot, any way if you want easy, rig up a hydraulic system, would not be real hard
 
The one I looked at had only one chain gear, I don't believe the relative size of that one gear will make a difference on pedal pressure. If it were combines with another gear, I.E. bicycle, there could be a big difference, but you would loose clutch travel relative to pedal travel.

I'm not so sure about that. For example look at wheel barrows with large bicycle type tires compared to the small fat tires, and how about the larger wheels on some push mowers. A single size does make a difference. The smaller the wheel the more times it has to travel around to go the same distance. The larger the wheel the less times it has to go around to travel the same distance. This would mean the pedal would have to travel less distance which would require less push power. Straight old time physics.
 
I believe your examples have more to do with diameter and the surface the tire is rolling over. A thin hard tire rolls with less force over a hard surface, far less so over a soft surface. On a rough surface the larger the diameter the more the tire bridges gaps and the easier it rolls. Multiple gears are all about mechanical advantage. In this case the chain gear is essentially a type of pulley where surface is not a factor. The gear is used to change the direction of force while doubling the force and halving the over all distance traveled, a doubler at the pulley, but a 1 to 1 relationship on the chain. A bigger pulley won't change that. Physics.
 
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I use a foot hydraulic pedal clutch, and it's much easier...

That being said, I would probably lean towards the automatic swap in, however I do have a love for CJ's with a clutch...

Problem would be if he doesn't want to use foot, I thought of retrofitting a hand pull e-brake handle (for leverage) to the dash in a hydraulic set up, but only have two hands and one has to shift and other has to steer... Maybe it could lock in disengaged area, shift, then release clutch softly like normal... This is not really realistic probably, but a thought I had while reading...

the hydraulic clutch is so much easier than the linkage & cable set ups. Have never used one like Baja uses, but did look at the build thread on it and it looked promising!

Here is a couple of "stock options for the CJ's, though as others said not stock for CJ5 , certainly not for a pre 72. 72's got longer in the 5's.

If you did full custom drivetrain with short motor, short tranny, and Transfer Case , you may be able to make it work.

https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/automatic/

That is a good link for knowledge of swaps! Novak-adapt. This is also where I got my hydraulic set up...

:chug:
 
Just looked around a bit and found this...

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