HELP! NO POWER to ignition lights or dash gauges

HELP! NO POWER to ignition lights or dash gauges
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Location
Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle(s)
1972 CJ-5 Renegade V8 with 8 inch lift and I am still discovering the other mods since I just purchased it.

1943 Unimog

07 Chevy 1500 Z71 5.3L V8

97 F150 lariat 4x4 4.3L V8

2007 Yamaha Big Bear 4X4
I recently purchased a 72 CJ5 v8 heavily moded. It ran good for a day except the battery had to be jumped a few times. However after the first time I the drove the jeep with the lights on the jeep would not turn over or show any signs it was getting power the horn, dashlights, and headlights also do not seem to be getting voltage.

I chased the current and this confused me even more because I found that the power is being sent to the alternator and even the horn however none of the systems hooked up to the "starter solenoid" are getting power...

To make things even worse when I had the lights turned on to test the voltage the positive battery terminal wires began heating up and smoking. I also figured out that by just touching the positive post ring I can achive a spark so I am guessing there is some feed back due to bad wiring.

HOW DO I GET MY ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS TO START WORKING AGAIN?!?!?
 
I think the first thing to check is the block were wires go through the fire wall for bad connection. It sounds like you could have a short some place and maybe a bad ground.
 
Unfortunately there is no magic bullet for a botched wiring job.

Start on one circuit at a time and trace it.

Lots of wiring diagrams on the net.
 
I think the first thing to check is the block were wires go through the fire wall for bad connection. It sounds like you could have a short some place and maybe a bad ground.
A stock 72 doesn't have a firewall block. They were introduced later. I also believe you have a short, but unfortunately as ww stated before you at just going to have to start tracing the wiring. :)
 
To make things even worse when I had the lights turned on to test the voltage the positive battery terminal wires began heating up and smoking. I also figured out that by just touching the positive post ring I can achive a spark
This sounds like you have a hot wire that is grounding out. Look for wires that are up against the metal or going thru the firewall that could have rubbed thru.
 
I just went through the same thing with my '80 CJ5 and it drove me crazy for a bit. It turned out to be a bad temp gauge which affected the gas gauge and volt meter gauge as well. I replaced the the whole speedo cluster and volt gauge for $200. Everything works again and my Jeep is re-born! (o miles on the odometer ha ha)
 
WOW!! Thanks for all of the replies you guys are AWESOME!

After some further review I think that most (if not all) of wiring is not worth trying to save, I think I am going to replace most of the wiring anyway trying to find the short. So I think I have decided to go ahead and rewire the whole jeep except for the tail lights. I also found out that the parking break cable has snapped...yay

Can you guys recommend any good wiring kits for a 72 CJ5?

P.S. That wiring diagram is gold.
 
i had a smilar problem with one of the cjs i bought, the wiring was completely toast, i ended up replaceing all the wiring, along with a new body,
 
If you got a spark at the pos batt terminal by touching it is probably loose/bad connection. If a positive wire is shorted to ground, it cooks until something gives; a fuse, the wire, etc. The spark happened because there was a draw/demand there.

Id suggest cleaning and securing the terminals first. Visually inspect where the cable goes into the lug.

You may have a problem at the ign. switch but having battery and connection problems can cause that.

Having power at the horn is normal. I havent checked my jeep, but generally you are closing an open ground when you depress a horn button. The key position shouldnt matter.

Also, alot of times you will have power when there is no load (lights off) but if you turn them on, the bad connection/circuit fails and no lights.
 

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