How to Remove & Install Clutch Pedal Spring 1980 CJ5

[wildman4x4nut]

I am installing a hyd clutch kit on my wifes 1980 CJ5 with a stock drivetrain.
I bought the kit from Parts Mike for $199 and it comes with all the hard parts you will need. HYDCL00SS HYDRAULIC CLUTCH KIT CJ AND UNIVERSAL

My problem is this, there is a spring on the clutch pedal that is too stiff to pull or pry off. I was finally able to slide the clutch pedal off the piviot shaft but am now faced with the task of installing the spring back onto the clutch pedal once I get it modified for the hyd clutch. The only advice I have found so far is to use a 2X4 and steel wire or a come-along to pull this spring. You have to drill a hole into your firewall to get at the spring for either of these ideas. Well I tried them to remove the spring and all I was able to do was break my wire.

So I am hoping someone who has taken the pedal off before will help me out and have a better idea of how to get the spring back onto the pedal.
Thanks for your help.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Never actually tried removing mine, and it's probably different between our years...

Wondering if you can leverage it somehow, or spread it somehow kinda like a reverse spring compressor, like a bolt, all thread and STRONG washer set up... Though I'm not sure how exactly i would try it... Like weld a double nut on a all thread piece, slip the washer in sideways and tread it through... something tricky... Without sitting in front of it I'm just thinking out loud, and not sure what size spring it even is etc...

Anyways, Noticed no one had posted anything for you, and figured I'd take a stab in the dark to help you work it through...



~ JR

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Pretty sure I just pulled mine really hard. Id try to get a pair of vise grips on it.. get some good footing and pull really hard.

 

[Purple77CJ7]

I hooked a vise grip to the spring and used a small pry bar against vise grip and the clutch pivot and a lot of cussing and busted knuckles.

 

[73CJ]

Since I don't stand on my head very easy anymore, I pull the pedal assembly out. Not that hard.

 

[Sasquach]

Since I don't stand on my head very easy anymore, I pull the pedal assembly out. Not that hard.

Good idea. It is extreemly hard to do while in the vehicle.

 

[wildman4x4nut]

Well the Jeep is back together and I now have a hydraulic clutch in the 5. I had already drilled a hole in the firewall when I was trying to remove the spring to get the clutch pedal off. I broke every piece of mechanics wire I had in the garage and was looking around at my local Ranch & Home (hardware) store for some stronger wire. They were showing me a roll of wire they use for bails of hay. Well I still wasn't sure this would be strong enough. I asked about some cable and they said yep they had some. Well I tried some stuff that had a tinsel strength of 195lbs. I don't remember the size but it worked. I got 10' of cable and 4 u-bolt clamps and then made a loop at each end. Put one end thru the firewall and onto the spring and the other on a come-a-long hooked to the rear on my wifes Grand Cherokee. Worked like a dream. Pulled the spring enough to get it back onto the clutch pedal and I was done.
Sorry I don't have any pictures as both my cameras are in my motorhome and it is currently about 2 hours away.

 

[wildman4x4nut]

Well I finally got my camera back and took a few pictures for you all.

I had to take the header and intake off to remove a broken bolt from the bellhousing. That was part of what started the whole changing to a hyd clutch.



You can see the tab I welded to the side of the frame for the clutch arm return spring.


The master cylinder mounted to the firewall. I used a 1 1/2" hole saw for the main hole and a 3/8" drill for the bolts. I also tightend the bolts and then welded them from the inside so it doesn't take 2 people to install M/C.


Trying to get a picture from the top of the slave cylinder. You can see it but it isn't the best picture.


Another shot of the S/C.

 

[wildman4x4nut]

A shot of the clutch pedal and the M/C rod connected to it. I'll post a few more shots.







Here is the heat shield I made for the S/C. I think it should help keep some of the heat off the S/C. Only time will tell, but I am also running DOT4 fluid to help with the heat. Here are a few more shots of the shield.








So I know this doesn't have anything to do with removing or replacing the clutch pedal spring but the reason I was messing around with the spring was to put a hyd clutch in the Jeep.

So to get the spring off I was able to just wiggle the pedal off the shaft. It just took a LOT of effort and was a total pain. To get the spring back onto the pedal I had to drill a 3/4" hole in the firewall. Then as I already discribed I used a small cable and come-a-long to get the spring back onto the pedal.



Here are the two holes I drilled. The bottom one was too low so then I drilled another high and once I verified that it was in the correct spot I drilled it to 3/4". Then I got some metal plugs to cover the holes.

 

[cstruthers]

I agonized on this topic also, deciding between the fastest way and the best way. I quickly learned the fastest way (I thought) would lead to bruised and bloody knuckles. I settled on the BEST WAY which is to remove the pedal assy. From there the spring hooks up in less than 60 seconds. Once on the shop floor (or bench) you can swing the pedal way past center, slide the spring into place and return the pedal to its normal position. Believe me, it is the most painless solution...

 

[Hedgehog]

I know it's to late but I must chime in here. After yanking and pulling and breaking my knuckles trying to get this spring in place I did as cstruthers and 73CJ said. Remove the clutch/brake assembly. It really isn't very difficult and while you are at it you can grease the pedal bearings. The spring is really a rollover spring used mainly to keep the pedal up. When the assembly is removed you can turn the pedal back (it would hit the firewall if in the vehicle) and ALL the pressure is off the spring. Then it's easy to put it in exactly the right position and that's important, then rotate the pedal back up in normal operating position. This is by far the easiest way to replace the clutch pedal spring. Believe me when I say that I tried every other method, including placing penny's in the coil to expand the spring. All that did was ruin several penny's and the spring.

 

[hole]

Wouldn't you know it but replacing my clutch peddle return spring is on this weekends list of things to do before an upcoming desert trip. Since I'm a touch hard headed, we'll see how many busted knuckles it'll take before I pull the peddle assembly

 

[Hedgehog]

The spring is a beast, but the real difficult part is getting it to proper align. You will notice the spring ends point in different directions and there is a channel in the assembly the spring is supposed to follow. The only spring I have working knowledge of is the one on my '75, your '83 might be different, but I bet it isn't much different. Seriously, save yourself some trouble and pull the pedal assembly. It really isn't very difficult and will save you a BUNCH of trouble. Be aware, the spring really doesn't do much. It cams over at the very top of your pedal movement holding the pedal up. Once you press on the clutch that big tough spring becomes a non factor in your clutch pedal feel. It's really kind of a cool way to get around the problem of holding your pedal up so the throw out bearing is free without carrying the spring weigh through the clutch action.

 

[Woolyworm]

I just replaced mine with a lighter spring from the hardware store and it works fine. No idea why the stock one is built to pull dump trucks. Like HH said all it does is hold the pedal up so the clutch stuff doesn't wear.


Wooly

 

[hole]

Mines been missing the entire time I've owned the darn thing, and I realized it when I put the T19 in and tried adjusting freeplay. Wooly, you are right about the size of the darn thing, looks overkill