Howell Fuel Injection

[Jeffroe3748]

Just installed Howell Fuel injection two weeks ago. In those two weeks my alternator has gone out 3 times. Are the two related somehow?

 

[Torxhead]

I'm not sure what you mean by gone out? and they are not connected other than it gets used more due to the electric fuel pump and a few more electronics like injectors and computer. You should be getting 14.5 volts at the battery when it is running and the same voltage at the Howell fuse box as per instructions.

 

[Jeffroe3748]

I'm not sure what you mean by gone out? and they are not connected other than it gets used more due to the electric fuel pump and a few more electronics like injectors and computer. You should be getting 14.5 volts at the battery when it is running and the same voltage at the Howell fuse box as per instructions.

When I said gone out, I meant it quit working. It went from 14.5 to less that 11.0. This is the third time this has happened in two weeks. Before i installed the Fuel injection my alternator had worked for 8 years with no issues. I was wondering if there was some electrical draw from the computer, fuel pump, etc...that may be over taxing the alternator...and if there is something how do I fix it???

 

[Torxhead]

If you still have the oem type alternator, you probably are overtaxing it. I think you should make sure the battery hot wire and fusible link are up to snuff. Like jiggling it around a bit while watching the voltmeter, see if you notice any difference. Another possibility could be lack of battery ground, this can be checked by running a jumper wire from the alternator housing to the battery negative post. You probably have the General Motors 10si alternator which could be upgraded to handle the power drawn by the electric fuel pump and computer. I think you should be able to bolt in a 12si model from a newer CJ and get one that is the 78 amp version that was for CJs with air conditioning. If you want to really upgrade there is the GM CS130, that was designed to handle the fuel injection and A/C, but that takes a little rewiring. There also could be a short somewhere also that can be checked with an amp meter between the battery negative wire and negative post.

 

[Jeffroe3748]

If you still have the oem type alternator, you probably are overtaxing it. I think you should make sure the battery hot wire and fusible link are up to snuff. Like jiggling it around a bit while watching the voltmeter, see if you notice any difference. Another possibility could be lack of battery ground, this can be checked by running a jumper wire from the alternator housing to the battery negative post. You probably have the General Motors 10si alternator which could be upgraded to handle the power drawn by the electric fuel pump and computer. I think you should be able to bolt in a 12si model from a newer CJ and get one that is the 78 amp version that was for CJs with air conditioning. If you want to really upgrade there is the GM CS130, that was designed to handle the fuel injection and A/C, but that takes a little rewiring. There also could be a short somewhere also that can be checked with an amp meter between the battery negative wire and negative post.

That makes since...I will trouble shoot per your conversation...hopefully it works...Thanks for the advise. I will keep you updated...it will probably be a few days..

 

[73CJ]

You might concider a 1-wire 130 Amp. Less than $100. It eliminates the external voltage regulator.

 

[bondo258]

The Howell setup works fine on a standard 10si Alt.

Make sure you have plentiful grounds with good contact, And remember, you removed and spliced a lot of wires installing the TBI. You may have jarred a factory splice loose (the duct tape ones), or yanked apart a thirty year old connection.