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Hub bolts..

Hub bolts..

Dan77CJ7

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76' CJ-7 4.2L/T-18/d20 d30sua/amc20soa M/T MTZp3 35/12.50/15s mc2100
#8902 SELECTRO HUB BOLT KIT | Stage 8

Two questions, has anyone used these^^^^? Kinda pricey..

Second question would be, what is your choice method of keeping the hub bolts tight?

If you have any pictures of your set up please post them, or a link to where they can be bought, thank you :notworthy:
 
Most guys go with grade 8 studs. There are those serrated nuts that help also, along with Locktite. The female threads on the hubs are a factor also.
 
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Just kidding....don't weld em in :D
 
Most guys go with grade 8 studs. There are those serrated nuts that help also, along with Locktite. The female threads on the hubs are a factor also.

:agree:

Go to the studs. A good 'bolt-house will have all you need.
Use AN washers and high strength ny-lock nuts.
LG
 
:)
Studs are great , but most people do not have the proper tool to set them other than taking two nuts tightened against each other to drive them home.

I would much rather use a specialty Set Screw. Much the same as a stud but with the added benefit of having an Allen head socket to drive it in and also aide in tightening & removal.............some even have an aircraft style locking insert imbedded and can be found in various lengths / sizes and grades of steel here: McMaster-Carr

:D:D:D:D

IMG_7114.webp
 
Interesting Tarry, but I would think that there would be a stronger shear point on a stud with a solid diameter and having the thread buried into the hub. I have sheared grade 8 bolts with my locked up front axle.
 
Tarry-I have seen those allen-type shear under load, where the solid style GD5 don't.
A coupling nut with a bolt inside to about the halfway mark, makes a great install tool for the solid type stud.;)
LG
 
If their OD is no larger than a AN washer, those would be great.
If you use a full size washer(SAE). The washer's overhang will not allow the wheel's center to clear for tire removal.
LG
 
Interesting Tarry, but I would think that there would be a stronger shear point on a stud

Tarry-I have seen those allen-type shear under load, where the solid style GD5 don't.)
LG

:)

Those are Grade 8 & I have ran products like that for years in similar applications..............In the case of a hub since the stud and surrounding parts are not a true interference or pinned fit , the ability to clamp the load and have that force remain constant is really all you have...........the only way things get to the point of shearing is when that clamped load has been diminished for whatever reason............ as nothing will shear until it becomes loose enough to move. If your relying on the studs only to hold those eventually the casting or threads will also fail. Point is keeping them tight is far more important.

:D:D:D:D
 
If you are using the stud correctly. You have the studs shoulder stopping the stub just a turn or two from bottoming out in the hole. The hubs flange should locate on this 'shoulder'.
Agree about keep the nutz 'tite'. :D That is a big issue with the Zinc casting material used by Warn. This was the main reason I switched to Mile Marker Hubs when I installed the Detroit Locker in my front end.
LG
 
I'm using the Nord Locks, but I haven't had a chance to put them to the test yet.
The demonstration at the parts store was completely impressive though
 
Jim-If you can, could you post the O.D. of those?
THX,
LG
 
Here yah go.

They hang out past the hub just a smidgen and haven't caused me issued with wheel removal or install.

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Wooly
 
Thank you much for the time! :chug:
LG
 
Thanks for all the great ideas, :chug: I havnt had time to join in the thread.. Doing tons of yard work, so the accountant says outta the books.... If ya know what I mean.. :cool:
 
Go here and read some very interesting tech. ARP | The Official Web Site These guys really know they science about bolts and studs.
 

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