Hydraulic Clutch - Strange Adjustment

[JR74CJ5]

So, as most know, I threw a bunch of new parts at my jeep all at once

I installed a SM420, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch Kit, adapter bell housing from Novak with clutch fork (modified for clearance) and the hydraulic clutch conversion kit from Novak.

I have a return spring installed inside the bell housing, on the clutch fork, and on the pedal (clutch pedal).

Here's my symptoms...

For the most part, around town it drives fine. Even on long trips. The pedal still seems to not fully return though (i'd say about an inch away from fully out) but engine and tranny do engage. I still pull the clutch pedal all the way out to avoid possible throw-out bearing riding.

When off road for a while, it seems to not "fully" engage the clutch when just releasing the pedal. Sometimes have to toe pull the pedal. not often though...

So questions:

I assume just adjusting the slave push rod like I would have if it was regular old clutch system. True?

My hydraulic fluid line is about 6"-8" away from my headers. They get pretty hot... If the fluid level gets too hot, what would happen?

I'm heading to the Rubicon again in a couple weeks, so want to try a few things out.

 

[Torxhead]

I am not much on hydraulic fluids, make sure you get the good stuff. Check web info on that. Do you have a return spring on the inside clutch pedal?

 

[Hedgehog]

Hydrolic fluids do get hot, look at brake systems. About the only thing that can happen with a hydrolic clutch is the fluid will expand when hot. When there's no pressure in the system the extra volumn will bleed back into the master cylinder. If the system is pressurized (foot on the peddle for example) the return port is closed and the extra volume created by heat has no place to go and you'll have problems. For instance my old Harley-Davidson had a rear brake system that was very similar to your hydrolic clutch. I adjusted the brake for not enough free play and the rear brake locked up until I readjusted the peddle to allow for return fluid.

 

[JR74CJ5]

I am not much on hydraulic fluids, make sure you get the good stuff. Check web info on that. Do you have a return spring on the inside clutch pedal?

I have 3 return springs. 1 on the clutch fork inside the bell housing going back to the pivot ball stud area, one on the outside of the bell housing attached the the bracket for the slave cylinder and the outer area of the clutch fork, and finally one on the clutch pedal itself going from the upper area of the pedal to the lower ridge of the dash. If I add or strengthen the springs any further, I may as well be using my Uncles Cable clutch system (that things a beast to operate! lol)

Hydrolic fluids do get hot, look at brake systems. About the only thing that can happen with a hydrolic clutch is the fluid will expand when hot. When there's no pressure in the system the extra volumn will bleed back into the master cylinder. If the system is pressurized (foot on the peddle for example) the return port is closed and the extra volume created by heat has no place to go and you'll have problems. For instance my old Harley-Davidson had a rear brake system that was very similar to your hydrolic clutch. I adjusted the brake for not enough free play and the rear brake locked up until I readjusted the peddle to allow for return fluid.

Makes sense mostly...

So if my ressivor is lets say all the way full, then the fluid heats up too much, it may be pressurizing the system and putting pressure on the clutch fork without pedal engagement already correct?

I'm using regular DOT3 brake fluid for my clutch hydraulic fluid by the way...

 

[Hedgehog]

it's more likely to leak out that build actual pressure. The seal on your master cylinder isn't a pressure seal, it's a leak seal. You shouls have a rubber baffle at the top of the master cylinder built to take up space for heat. It's been a very long time since I had a hydrolic clutch so I don't remember what the master cylinder had for a cover seal. The system actually builds pressure in the cylinders themselves. Press the peddle, the hydrolic cylinder piston moves, first shutting off the return port then putting the squeeze on the fluid in the cylinder, the fluid puts pressure on the slave piston which moves the clutch rod. Adjust the clutch rod until it sits loose when not being used, this adjustment is largely automatic.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Thanks Hedgehog

 

[Hedgehog]

I hope this helped, I do try my man. I am surprised my shadow isn't here..... He usually has something to say of interest...