Ignition Issues

[Team Renegade]

Hi all, first time posting. In summary I am having issues starting my CJ.

Background:
Pulled the jeep (running fine) into the garage to work on a few items.
Replaced my horn relay, rebuilt the worn out clutch linkage, and replaced the solenoid to the correct one with the Transmission in gear lock out. Finished everything and went to crank and nothing. Volt gauge drops but nothing at the starter. I first thought is was a bad solenoid so I put the old one back on and same issue. I searched the forum and followed testing procedures for the solenoid. I have a good batt, connections, ground. Also all accessories work fine.

When the key is at run I have 0V at 'S' and 6.5 at 'I'. I get 12V at the 'S' terminal and 6.5V at the 'I' terminal when the key is on crank. I believe the 'I' terminal should also see 12V when cranking. I can jump the solenoid and the starter turns.

The 'I' wire which connects to the coil gets very warm after leaving the key on and always has 6.5V. I also have a plug coming off the coil connection I don't know where that should connect. I did find some questionable splices and wire "fuses" that could be cleaned up but neither of these should not cause any issue. Could the problem be ignition switch, coil, ignition module?? Not sure what I could have done to make one of those fail other than bumped wires while working under the dash or by the firewall.

Any help is appreciated!
- Robert

 

[jammer1]

With key in start position, check voltage at side of solenoid that goes to starter. Should be 12v. If 12v then check at starter (batt cable). If 12v check to make sure starter has ground. If you have 12v at starter side of solenoid and 12v at s terminal with key on start and 6.5v (approx) on I terminal in run you are ok. If you don't have 12v at starter side on start make sure solenoid is grounded (I imagine is should be since the s and i terminals are working. This is assuming the starter is not cranking (engine is not cranking over).

 

[Torxhead]

That 6.5 volts doesn't sound right. It could be a bad fusable link located off the battery side of the solenoid. There are 2 of them at that location, check that voltage as you jiggle them around. that plug coming off the coil positive should be for the noise suppressor. If you stll have one of those slip on coil connectors that can be a problem as they tend to loosen up after awhile. You can replace it or go to the coil with screw down connectors.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

"replaced the solenoid to the correct one with the Transmission in gear lock out."

Never was such a thing installed as OEM. All CJ's can start 'in-gear'.

Put the old horn relay back in--

LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Use only the "I" post. My replacement had two posts, but the instructions said to use only the "I" post for vehicles that are factory equipped with one post.

 

[jammer1]

I had a brain fart! If I remember correct the I should be power to coil on start (12v). The s is the 12v from the key through neutral safety switch to turn solenoid on Which allows 12v to go through to starter and 12v to go to coil. At least that's how the old style jeep solenoids work. Am I off on what I remember? And is he having a problem with cranking the starter or power to coil? Edit. Just remembered on the CJ8 I'm building I tested the new solenoid I bought (has s and I terminals). Connected to battery, ground to mount and jumper to S terminal I had continuity from batt post to batt post through solenoid. I also had continuity from batt side post to I terminal. When I connected battery + to I terminal I had no power or continuity to either side batt post on solenoid nor the s terminal.

 

[Team Renegade1]

For some reason the site didn't recognize my login, apparently a common issue on the help forum, so new account later...

Problem Found! I found that if I grounded the neutral safety switch connection on the solenoid it cranks fine. I must have damaged the original solenoid when I removed it.
After tracing the NSS wire it was abandoned at the Transmission wire connection. And only a 2 prong switch on the T-176 tranny.

At some point I will replace that switch with the correct 3 prong switch and fix the harness so it doesn't crank in gear.

Question: I don't like the bare wire at the coil connection see attached picture, anyone recommend a good replacement part for the coil wire attachment? maybe like Torxhead said get a new coil with screw down connectors.

 

[Torxhead]

Frayed wires can be repaired, some just take more work than others. They should also be protected against tearing on sharp metal. I my opinion, that slip on cap was built and designed for a quicker assembly process at the factory and not for a long term connection. Although N.A.P.A. sells those slip on caps to repair that coil connector, but not sure how its done. Making sure your existing coil is good also, there are a few checks that you can do to make sure it is working correctly.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

For some reason the site didn't recognize my login, apparently a common issue on the help forum, so new account later...

Problem Found! I found that if I grounded the neutral safety switch connection on the solenoid it cranks fine. I must have damaged the original solenoid when I removed it.
After tracing the NSS wire it was abandoned at the Transmission wire connection. And only a 2 prong switch on the T-176 tranny.

At some point I will replace that switch with the correct 3 prong switch and fix the harness so it doesn't crank in gear.

Question: I don't like the bare wire at the coil connection see attached picture, anyone recommend a good replacement part for the coil wire attachment? maybe like Torxhead said get a new coil with screw down connectors.

Again- Your Jeep CJ never had a starter lock out for the manual Transmission .
The OEM Jeep 'horseshoe' connector on the coil is a well known problem area.
A replacement coil with screw terminals is highly recommended.
LG