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Installing new wiring harness

Installing new wiring harness

TroyaCantrell

Old Time Jeeper
Posts
1,455
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Location
Orangevale, CA
Vehicle(s)
1966 CJ 6, Buick V6 Dauntless,
Dana 44 rear, Dana 27 front

Trans GM SM 420
First Gear ....... 7.05
Second Gear ... 3.57
Third Gear ...... 1.70
Fourth Gear ... Direct

Dana T-case (twin stick)

1970 Glass dune buggy. Short pan 1600
2008 Chevy HHR SS
Ok so you old CJ'ers out there, i mean with old CJs, not an age comment. I am installing a new painless wiring harness in the CJ, 1966 CJ6 , so you don't have to look at the profile, and the only place I can see to mount the fuse block is driver side high and left of the heater on the firewall.

Has anyone found a better location?

I also already installed an additional aftermarket heater to the right of center on the firewall so it can't go there.

Then instructions say to route rear wire inside the tub but I am thinking that is on newer jeeps. Any suggestions there?

Lastly, where should I route the wires through the firewall? The hole that is used now is to the right of the stock heater, fuse block will be left of it. No problems routing over the top of the heater really plenty of room.

There are two holes though right below where the fuse block will go so thought about using those.

These are the two shown form outside.
4y3y6e5e.jpg
 
Ok so mounted it in that spot and routed everything out the original hole with plenty of room. I also picked up 50' of heat shrink tubing to help keep it all tidy.

I will have a bunch of extra circuits though and I'm wondering what anyone may have done with their install. I thinking I will still pass them through the firewall to keep it clean and then clip and bundle them up. I could pull them back through the firewall and coil them up under the dash but If I need them up front I have to pull them through the firewall again and then they will not me in the tidy bundle anymore.

Also the new harness has wires for both headlights and marker/signals for both sides where the original setup used the junction on the driver side fender to junction to the passenger side. So the question, would you keep the junction or eliminate it and wire direct to both sides. Direct is probably cleaner but the junction is a bit more purest.
 
I'm not an old CJer, just old,but I like the wiring direct plan for the headlights so the wires can handle more current, especially if you convert to halogen headlights, if that is what you are asking. I really don't go for extra wires though, like under the dash. I just cut them and leave at bit so if later I want to use them I can. I converted to fuel injection a while back, and that really cleaned out my later model Jeep.
 
...but I like the wiring direct plan for the headlights so the wires can handle more current, especially if you convert to halogen headlights, if that is what you are asking. I really don't go for extra wires though, like under the dash. I just cut them and leave at bit so if later I want to use them I can...

I like both of these suggestions and will probably use them. Very practical. I am personally a few months away from the wiring harness myself. haven't decided to make this purchase yet or just work with what I had:dunno:?

Back to your project. If there is a wire you definately will not use any time soon I would just cut it long enough to use again and heat shrink the end. Leaves the option open, I like options!:chug:
 
Those "extra" wires just don't seem to get used.

Clip em :D
 
Thanks guys, there are definitely some I will not use, 4wd sensor for example but some seem useful, like the under hood light, I could see installing one there.

I like the heat shrink idea, since I picked up 50' of it why not. I'll leave a foot or so and dress them down and secure them.

I would think twice before going with another painless kit for this year CJ. I picked it up early in the process and might have picked up a cheaper, simpler one had I had a bit more experience. Don't get me wrong, it is an awesome setup. Not having any fuses or even a fuse block it is a great addition but there is a lot of overkill for this early of a CJ and I could have saved some money.

With a more complicated wiring setup, the '80 rigs perhaps, they might be a good fit. every freaking wire is printed along the entire length what it goes to. It has a section name, like headlight section, then where, left headlight, left marker,left turn signal...

It is a great kit, I could have gotten away with less is all.



Troy--
CJ Build thread- http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f98/1966-cj-6-build-15075/
 
Thank you for posting this! After I replace the clutch & brakes, this will be my next step. I have a 1980 CJ5 so your informative words is helping me just bite the bullet & get the Painless kit.
 
TroyaCantre These are the two shown form outside. [IMG said:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/4y3y6e5e.jpg[/IMG]
Troy, if you recall one off those holes is for the E-brake cable unless you went to a different system.Just thought I would mention that.Sounds like your doing a great job. Mike
 
Troy, if you recall one off those holes is for the E-brake cable unless you went to a different system.Just thought I would mention that.Sounds like your doing a great job. Mike

Thanks, no e-brake at the moment but still have the hardware (just no actual brake). I did save two of the holes one for the e-brake and one for the heater control.
 
So is there a trick to getting the wires/ plugs off the brake pressure switch?

They look like they are brass, they are round, like a typical round electrical connector but all metal and the buggers will not come off.
 

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