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Interior and floor pans

Interior and floor pans

Redbug43

Jeeper
Posts
7
Thanks
0
Location
Hensley, AR
Vehicle(s)
83 CJ7, 258, 5-speed trans., factory diffs am 20 and dana 30. Hard top and doors. 4" lift with 33" CO-OPs. Painted rims black. Custom made winch bumper with Warn 8000 low line.
Any good suggestions for alitte surface rust and a few holes in floors. I would like to sand down and coat with some primer or something for protection. I got jeep about a week ago and my wheels are spinning. I what to fix this CJ up so bad, time and money is issue. I dont want to go with rhino because I think it would be hard to clean. Do I get new floor pans or patch holesm sand, and paint over. Give me some good feedback. Thanks Jeepers:drool:
 
Your post confuses me?

You have floor pans with holes? Do you not want to fix any metal conditions (via welding or ??? )

You think Rhino Lining will fix the holes?

I'm confused? :confused:
 
Yes, I do have some holes in floor pans. I thought about buying the new floor pans or just cuting the small sections out for repair. Do they make any kind of patch kit to patch a hole about 1.5 inch around. After I do this what would be good to coat the inside of the jeep, being the floors, bed, and center hump.
 
You can buy replacement floor panels, but for small repairs I usually grab a hood/fender or something from a junk yard, cut it up into pieces and make my own repair panels, and whatever else I may need metal for. 70's ford trucks had good metal, and a fender or something similar is easy and cheap to get.

Sand off the paint and rust see exactly how much damage has occured.
Then cut out the rusty area and weld in a patch.
Once it's all cleaned up from welding, prep it then coat it inside
and out with POR-15, once the POR-15 has dried scuff it with a
scotch brite pad to dull the surface, then coat it with which ever
liner is your favorite. Since you said money is tight check out
Herculiner, and just apply it with a brush, thin coat first once it's
sticky apply a second heavier coat, and continue to layer until you reach
the desired thickness. I did the entire floor and 2" up on the sides and
had 3 coats and still had some left over.
 
Thanks for the reply. Good plan.
 
Can you post pics at all of the bad spots?? It really helps to give the most accurate response. One mans small spot is another mans crater and everything in between.
Thanks for the reply. Good plan.
 
X2 on the pictures. If you just have one hole and then just a bunch of surface rust that hasn't really thinned out your metal then I say cut the hole to an even square and weld in a patch and pick up a grindiNg wheel and grind the surface rust off to expose the good metal then paint with a primer to seal it.

I want to be the first to say thAt your reason for not bedlining your tub is no good. It would be easy to clean. The bedliner would seal your floor up and keep the metal in rust prone areas, such as floor pans, where crud and water collect preventig the metal from being ableto oxidize(rust). Also Bedliners such as herculiner have chunks of rubber in them that will ,amongst things, help reduce noise in the cab. If you have to clean the tub you can literally hose the floor down and not have to be concerned about speeding up rust development.

I picked up a herculiner kit from the zone for about 90 bucks and it came with a gallon of liner. I just did he floor and not the walls and I still have 1 or 2 quarts left.
 
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I just did the front floor board , it took a quart can I want to say it was $30 but I suffer from CRS so don't take my word, make the call. At one time they made white and red Herculiner but I could find none. Pictures of rust first, Do you weld?:cool:
 
I just did the front floor board , it took a quart can I want to say it was $30 but I suffer from CRS so don't take my word, make the call. At one time they made white and red Herculiner but I could find none. Pictures of rust first, Do you weld?:cool:

You have to order the red stuff I could only findnit by the quart
 
Do you weld is the question here.
I keep a section of 16 gauge sheet metal around the garage, got it from the remnant table at the metal supply store, works great for metal repairs on the Jeep.
If you do weld, have you ever done body work welding? You want to do a bunch of short tack welds and let cool so the panels do not warp. Then grind flat.
as far a liners go, and ease of cleaning, I cannot answer that as I cannot figure out the word cleaning and Jeep:p
 
You can buy replacement floor panels, but for small repairs I usually grab a hood/fender or something from a junk yard, cut it up into pieces and make my own repair panels, and whatever else I may need metal for. 70's ford trucks had good metal, and a fender or something similar is easy and cheap to get.

Sand off the paint and rust see exactly how much damage has occured.
Then cut out the rusty area and weld in a patch.
Once it's all cleaned up from welding, prep it then coat it inside
and out with POR-15, once the POR-15 has dried scuff it with a
scotch brite pad to dull the surface, then coat it with which ever
liner is your favorite. Since you said money is tight check out
Herculiner, and just apply it with a brush, thin coat first once it's
sticky apply a second heavier coat, and continue to layer until you reach
the desired thickness. I did the entire floor and 2" up on the sides and
had 3 coats and still had some left over.

Isn't this overkill? When i did my TJ, I just scuffed up the paint. This stuff can be applied straight to bare metal, and it will adhere and protect it from rusting.
 
Isn't this overkill? When i did my TJ, I just scuffed up the paint. This stuff can be applied straight to bare metal, and it will adhere and protect it from rusting.
90% of a good job is Prep, good prep and it does not plake in a few years. what can be said.
 
Isn't this overkill? When i did my TJ, I just scuffed up the paint. This stuff can be applied straight to bare metal, and it will adhere and protect it from rusting.

Yes and no. Just make sure you get off any surface rust. Most people say sand it down but I am impatient and will use the angle grinder and grinding wheel. If you have the patience pqr is the way to go. But if you want to just remove the current rust and scuff the paint up you should be good to go unless it starts to rust from the bottom up. O have found that in both my fsj's and now my cj that they seem to start rusting from the inside the cab floorboards where water likesto sit more that the bottom of the truck.
 
With a clean painted rust free panel I scuff and line it.
But with a rusty surface I sand it down then coat it with POR-15,
scuff, then line it.
Rust prevention is never overkill.
And like Baja said prep is key.
 

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