Is a Jeeps bed structural?

[Hedgehog]

Lately I've been looking at my CJ5 's bed. That poor little 3'x4' area has seen it's share of insults, holes drilled, great dents and even tears where some sort of long gone piece of equipment tore itself loose. Before I had my MIG welder I straightened some of the dents and welded the tears. Unfortunately I had no business welding thin metal with my stick welder and did an ugly, but I will say strong enough job of it.

I've been considering cutting the old floor out and replacing it. At first the idea of putting in a stock replacement floor appealed to me and it still does. But I've been considering something I've never seen before.

I'd like to replace the solid sheet metal floor with an wood style floor like an old step side pick up had. I think it would be cool for so many reasons.

While doing the floor some maintenance can be done on fuel lines, fuel tank and I could get rid of a great hunk of steel (3" deep x the width of the frame) welded to the top of he frame in front of the existing fuel tank.

A wood floor would be both warmer and cooler that a sheet metal floor.

I hate to admit this, but I think the floor would look very great too.

I do have a question though. Since the jeep has a more or less uni-body tub, would removing the solid sheet metal bed add a level of flexibility that would significantly weaken the tub? I'm thinking about welding up a nice strong sub frame to support the floor, but in truth I have no idea.

Your thoughts would be welcome.

 

[IOPort51]

you will have to add at least three heavier cross members to support the bed, have a place to bolt the wood and to keep the sides from moving. You could consider laying the wood on top of what you have. I can see where that would work.

 

[somedude922]

I think that would look awesome. What IO said too.

 

[Hedgehog]

Thought of doing that, but I had to slap myself for a couple of reasons. First - I would view that as being a fake venire sort of application. Second - I can't loose the 1" or so inch of box depth.

If I'm going to build a bed, there is an opportunity to use the lost space between the tank and the Transfer Case . Granted it isn't much space, but in a CJ, especially in a CJ5 you need all the space you can get. So, the final produce needs to look factory made, at the factory height.

 

[jzak]

This sounds like a fantastic idea. Good luck! You have to post some pics of the finished product. I wanna see a CJ5 Woodie!

 

[IOPort51]

At worst you would loose 5/8".

The boards used in pickups are a standard tongue and groove siding boards.

The interesting part would be to attach an angle at front and back to hold everything in place. still doable.

I would think that after adding the needed support members across the bed to replace the bed support you would not gain much depth. I think the biggest problem with what I suggested would be to keep water from doing nasty things between the layers.

 

[Hedgehog]

If I do it I will remove the bed and weld up a solid sub frame with cross members designed to have a finished product very close to the factory floor height.

I don't think the wood for a wood truck bed is regular tongue and groove. From what I've seen the wood is grooved on top to fit metal strips between each board. Most bolts go in the metal strips. I think it's very doable. Price is the next thing.

 

[gutthans]

If I do it I will remove the bed and weld up a solid sub frame with cross members designed to have a finished product very close to the factory floor height.

I don't think the wood for a wood truck bed is regular tongue and groove. From what I've seen the wood is grooved on top to fit metal strips between each board. Most bolts go in the metal strips. I think it's very doable. Price is the next thing.

My thoughts on your welding...Remember that the Jeep structure is designed to flex. Every weld you place that stiffens the chassis means some other part is going to absorb the stress. Early jeeps are prone to cracking at certain stress points already (especially around the spring mounts). So think through where other welds may need to be to offset your improvements' unintended effects

 

[duffer]

My thoughts on your welding...Remember that the Jeep structure is designed to flex. Every weld you place that stiffens the chassis means some other part is going to absorb the stress. Early jeeps are prone to cracking at certain stress points already (especially around the spring mounts). So think through where other welds may need to be to offset your improvements' unintended effects

Made to flex? Yes and no. I haven't messed with the newer CJ's so will only offer my opinion as it relates to flatties/early 5, 6's and M38A1. None of those tubs are really made to flex and the frame flex should be accommodated by the body mounts. If those have no give, you will indeed end up with a lot of sheet metal damage.

However, the bed is integral to the tub structure and without it, there will be a lot of flex in both the wheelhouses and tailgate mounts. Personally, I think a solid sheet of steel needs to be there and it needs to be securely fastened, preferably welded. Wood does have a unique look but it's also a maintenance headache and why you don't find it anymore on new vehicles.

 

[Hedgehog]

Deffinately welded in and the rest of the advce seriously considered.

I was surprised at how thin the bed metal is, the stuff is difficult to crack repair, granted we are working with metal that has been weakened due to excessive flexing. I really would like to know what kind of machinery was bolted to th floor. It has the feel of a post hole digger, but I'll never really know.

 

[motorhead]

Just my opinion but if you are cutting out the entire floor in the back half you should weld in supports before cutting. Just a couple of bars across the top edge will do, so your body doesn't twist. You could YouTube how to chop a top off a car for ideas. You will also need to build a new structure or frame to strengthen your tub and bolt the wood to. I don't know how much space you have under yours but you could probably set the floor an inch lower than factory and gain some more room. A wood deck sounds like it would be beautiful but make sure you get the metal strips in between the wood or else water, mud, dust, exhaust with come up through it.

 

[Hedgehog]

If I do it I will remove the bed and weld up a solid sub frame with cross members designed to have a finished product very close to the factory floor height.

I don't think the wood for a wood truck bed is regular tongue and groove. From what I've seen the wood is grooved on top to fit metal strips between each board. Most bolts go in the metal strips. I think it's very doable. Price is the next thing.

Been there already thought of the sub floor. But adding temporary supports wouldn't be a bad idea. I believe the floor already has supports under it, well at least one major cross member, that would likely have to stay.

I've seen the hot rod shows where they essentially gut a car to ruin the original lines by chopping it. It really is amazing to see the cars sag when they forgot to reinforce the body. Doors are always a night mare.