Is basecoat/clearcoat or single coat better for a Jeep?

[builder77sDad]

I will be painting my son's 1983 CJ7 myself. The hood, doors, grill, windshield frame and fenders are all stripped to the metal. The body tub is unpainted aluminum. Ethan had the frame dipped in zinc and then he coated it with POR-15 and then the POR topcoat.

I plan to use zinc phosphate on the steel first. Then I plan to spray on an etching primer (which can be used with the aluminum also).

I have been told that an epoxy primer would be the best next step. Your opinion/experience?

My main question concerns whether to paint it (green metallic) using a basecoat and clearcoat system, or whether I should just use a one-step urethane without clearcoat. What would be the easiest to repair myself if I need to do some repainting after getting scratched or scraped? If I get minor paint damage what would be the easiest to repair by buffing?

Thanks for your advice!

 

[gone2hatteras]

For me the choise was a single stage system. I've found that it's easier to correct and/or repair than a base clear. In the end it all depends on what you are wanting. If you want a long lasting deep shine go base/clear. If you're not a pro painter, need to be able to work the paint and easy spot repair go single stage. By the way a single stage will normally be less exspensive in up front cost. Your prep work will determand how well it turns out regardless of which system. Good luck with your project.

 

[CJ]

I'm with G2H - One step is easier to fix and apply. At least as far as I know...

Now - An aluminum body! Have any shots of that thing? We would all love to see them!

 

[Kane]

I used a single stage polyurethane paint from Spies Hecker and it still looks brand new after many years. the poly paints hold a shine longer and really they don't need waxing.

 

[builder77sDad]

Thank you fellows. After reading and hearing advice from a number of helpful people, I have a plan.

First I will remove all old paint from the body parts and sand by hand any rough rust. [This does not apply to the windshield frame. I don't think I can adequately protect the inside metal if I strip it. Instead I will lightly sand (320 grit) the exterior existing paint.]

Next I will spray the metal with a zinc phosphate (Metal Ready by POR some other brand). I have read that it works on both aluminum and steel, and that it is a good rust prevention measure that is compatible with primer and paints.

Then I will spray with epoxy sandable primer, and wet sand (600 grit) with a flexible rubber block the observable areas.

Finally I will clean with tack cloth and paint with a one-stage urethane paint. The original paint on my son's Jeep was a metallic green. Having been advised on the difficulty of making metallic look good without being a very thin layer protected with clearcoat, I have decided to go with a non-metallic paint. As an amateur painter, another advantage to a single coat is that I can wet sand mistakes and paint over the bad section. This may also come in handy if I happen to scratch the Jeep. I don't want to be afraid to go off road.