Is this a mistake or is it "Painless"

[Lumpy Grits]

Okay, after looking at all the options, and I really looked I went with the Painless wiring loom from Summit. I found this one thing to be disappointing, the website shows that customizing is available, NOT!

All n all knowing the wiring modifications that have been done there shouldn't be any real problems working with this kit. Now to find relays sold in bulk. I'm at needing 30 and counting. Since each relay will need a fuse that's 30 weather proof fuse blocks. Man this will be expensive. Lets see, I'll need to run hot wires to make the switched hot wire hot that another ..........

You only need 1 relay for the headlight circuit. Look at circuit breakers or fuse panels made for boats.
I would also use a relay for the heater blower motor and windshield wiper.
What are you run'n for headlights? I run the Hella conversions with higher output bulbs. Much less current used than with the OEM type.
LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The one thing about the Painless harness that drove me bonkers: no 4wd indicator lamp wire. I must have looked for it for hours. Turns out the kit I bought doesn't include one.

I've yet to DIY it. Doubt I ever will.

-Jon

Why not-It's easy, the switch only 'breaks' the GND is all.
Just like the reverse switch does for the backup lights.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Lumpy's right, there is a switch on some transfer cases. A simple on/off affair. Run a wire from a fused power source to the bulb from the bulb to one side of the switch a wire from the other side of the switch to a ground source. you know how these old CJ's are, you might need to run 3 or 4 ground wires to get a truly proper ground circuit. Please no protest letters the last part was only having a little fun with a serious subject.

 

[jdcaples]

The reason I have not is irrational, and embarrassing. I have some personal dragons to slay before I able to move forward on that.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The reason I have not is irrational, and embarrassing. I have some personal dragons to slay before I able to move forward on that.

I know that path very well.
LG

 

[jdcaples]

Thank you, Mr Grits. You continue to remain on of my top encouraging instructors.
Most of the time I doubt you've been aware since I lurk more than I post. You should know that you are a big reason I still own my functioning, drivable Jeep. Your postings are the reason my clutch chatter is gone. You opened my eyes to diaphragm tech. Sorry to go off topic, HH. Sometimes I just gotta say thank you when it is time. You are aces too.

-Jon

 

[Hedgehog]

Oh No no no no! You used the formal Mr. Grits, now he'll be impossible to deal with. There is little doubt when I'm forced into a corner that a thin blue line is about to be crossed when I write "Lumpy's right" but I simply don't know how "Mr. Grits" will be will affect us all. We may be stumbling into a brave new world...... I can't help but laugh, oh my I'm so pleased .....

 

[jdcaples]

I hate it when take a sledgehammer to yet another box labeled "property of Pandora.". Someone should make it illegal for me to handle tools!!!

PS Havin' me along is like losin' 200,000 CDC doctors.

 

[Hedgehog]

its all good my friend. I've smashed a few boxes myself.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Add me to that list too.......
LG

 

[007]

The reason I have not is irrational, and embarrassing. I have some personal dragons to slay before I able to move forward on that.

I've "seen that movie" too...on the same topic. Took me some thinking to figure out how my FWD light worked on my QuadraTrac .

Just consider your whole Transfer Case as a light switch, because in this case - that's what it is.

 

[Hedgehog]

Got the harness today. Yes, it was expensive, but I'm impressed with what I've got. Nothing looks or feels cheaply made or done.

 

[jdcaples]

Congratulations!

Which Painless Performance part number did you order?

I'm really happy with mine. It's really nice not having gremlins running amok.

-Jon

 

[Hedgehog]

10106 1975-1986 cj.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Hope the new harness works out well!
May I recommend, that where the harness routes up and over the steering colume and brace. That you sleeve it in some flexable hose. This to keep the sharp edges of the stamped brace from cutting/wearing through the insulation from road vibration and such. I have seen this happen to the OEM harness. It happened to my Jeep and started blow'n light fuses. Sleeved mine in some fire hose.
LG

 

[jdcaples]

I wish I'd thought of firehose. I just used corrugated, split conduit to keep the wires together and protected.

When a wire needed to leave the conduit, I wrapped it around a screw driver a few times, making curls or loop-de-loops before terminating with a connector.

I'm hoping that'll reduce vibration stress on the high vibration connectors by spreading out the motion along the length of wire.

If I'm wrong, well, it doesn't seem to be doing any harm; except for the mocking that comes from people who manage see my engine compartment.

-Jon

 

[Hedgehog]

Fire hose ..... It definitely would have had been tapped and had a covering over it to protect against abrasion.

Has anybody tried the really cool braded wire covering from Painless? The stuff looks very nice, but probably very expensive. It would look very professional.

 

[jdcaples]

I looked at it. It was cheaper from local retailers back then. It was an option I considered. In the end the best - and most cost - efficient - chaffing prevention was local marine supply retailers.


I am not discouraging you...just giving you options.


-Jon

 

[Hedgehog]

Not at all, that is why I asked.

 

[Drewski]

Any updates Hedgehog? I'm waiting to get back home from Africa to knock out my brake issues. Next on the list will be a new wiring harness. I've been looking at American Autowire.

This will be my first attempt at rewiring a vehicle so any tips/tricks is very much appreciated.