It's a Gusher!!

[MDJEEPER]

Guys,

So, I replaced my water pump and flushed the cooling system in my Jeep. Apparently, I did too good of a job because once I fired it back up the radiator decided to pop a pin hole leak right by the upper radiator hose (see picture). It's not a big leak, but it's definitely a leak! Talk about defeat snatched from the jaws of victory!!!

Is there any way I can plug this leak for awhile until I can get approval from "The Boss" to spend yet more $$ for a new radiator?? And no, I don't have a welder...

JB Weld?

Epoxy?

Bueller? Bueller??

Thanks!

 

[CoreyYoungCj577]

Guys,

So, I replaced my water pump and flushed the cooling system in my Jeep. Apparently, I did too good of a job because once I fired it back up the radiator decided to pop a pin hole leak right by the upper radiator hose (see picture). It's not a big leak, but it's definitely a leak! Talk about defeat snatched from the jaws of victory!!!

Is there any way I can plug this leak for awhile until I can get approval from "The Boss" to spend yet more $$ for a new radiator?? And no, I don't have a welder...

JB Weld?

Epoxy?

Bueller? Bueller??

Thanks!

Can you solder? I cant remember 100% but i think you need a resin core based solder and it will seal it, you could google on what type of solder you would need.

 

[IOPort51]

Don't even think about trying to solder it!! That is one truly loosing proposition.
Pay a pro and check his references, A radiator can turn into a story to be told around the fire for the next life time. JB gets soft when it is hot and it will make it difficult to fix later.
Let it run for a while and see if it will heal up, yes it can happen if the hole isn't too big and you still have enough silt in the coolant. Stop leak works, it has to be your decision . I only use it in emergencies and the biggest problem I have had is it seems to reduce the capacity of the heater coil.

Can you solder? I cant remember 100% but i think you need a resin core based solder and it will seal it, you could google on what type of solder you would need.

 

[MDJEEPER]

I can solder, but I can't say I do it very well!

 

[MDJEEPER]

Don't even think about trying to solder it!! That is one truly loosing proposition.
Pay a pro and check his references, A radiator can turn into a story to be told around the fire for the next life time. JB gets soft when it is hot and it will make it difficult to fix later.
Let it run for a while and see if it will heal up, yes it can happen if the hole isn't too big and you still have enough silt in the coolant. Stop leak works, it has to be your decision . I only use it in emergencies and the biggest problem I have had is it seems to reduce the capacity of the heater coil.

Seeing as how I just flushed and changed out the antifreeze, do you think there could be sufficent silt to plug it up again?

 

[elwood blues]

Have you ever soldered or welded something together before? If you have, you can fix this. Even if you haven't, you can still fix this. The best part is you don't have to pull the radiator.

You will need, a large soldering gun, not a soldering iron, soldering gun. Probably 250W or so is big enough to heat up the copper. Or, even easier would be the propane torches that plumbers use. You are basically going to sweat the radiator like you would a pipe in your house. You'll also need some solder and flux.

First thing you need to do is drain the radiator. After that you need to clean the surface of the radiator where the hole is. Really clean, antifreeze is nasty stuff. You need to clean the area surrounding the hole (probably 1 to 2 inches). First start with a wire brush, get the big stuff off first. Then move on to steel wool, or a scotchbright pad. After that you can take emory paper (not sandpaper there is a difference). Once you've finished cleaning the hole use some acid, or copper cleaning compound, to get all of the fillings that you've just shaved off of the radiator out of you workspace.

Here is the key to soldering anything, REMEMBER THAT YOU NEED TO HEAT THE METAL, NOT THE SOLDER. Appply some acid free flux to the area around the hole, this will help the solder melt. Apply heat to the area around the hole. This is important too, don't overheat your radiator, you don't want it to glow orange, you'll damage the water runs inside. Unroll 4-6" of solder from the roll, leaving it attached, don't cut it, touch the solder to the area almost directly above the hole, waiting for it to begin melting. Don't push the solder, or apply pressure, just kind of rest it against the raidiator. Once the radiator has reached the melting temperature of the solder, the solder will start flowing. And because this is a horizontal surface it's going to try to just drip off. Take your time and us a little solder at a time. "The bigger the glob the better the job" is not going to work.

Once you feel confident that you've plugged the hole, take a dremel tool and file down the excess

 

[MDJEEPER]

Have you ever soldered or welded something together before? If you have, you can fix this. Even if you haven't, you can still fix this. The best part is you don't have to pull the radiator.

You will need, a large soldering gun, not a soldering iron, soldering gun. Probably 250W or so is big enough to heat up the copper. Or, even easier would be the propane torches that plumbers use. You are basically going to sweat the radiator like you would a pipe in your house. You'll also need some solder and flux.

First thing you need to do is drain the radiator. After that you need to clean the surface of the radiator where the hole is. Really clean, antifreeze is nasty stuff. You need to clean the area surrounding the hole (probably 1 to 2 inches). First start with a wire brush, get the big stuff off first. Then move on to steel wool, or a scotchbright pad. After that you can take emory paper (not sandpaper there is a difference). Once you've finished cleaning the hole use some acid, or copper cleaning compound, to get all of the fillings that you've just shaved off of the radiator out of you workspace.

Here is the key to soldering anything, REMEMBER THAT YOU NEED TO HEAT THE METAL, NOT THE SOLDER. Appply some acid free flux to the area around the hole, this will help the solder melt. Apply heat to the area around the hole. This is important too, don't overheat your radiator, you don't want it to glow orange, you'll damage the water runs inside. Unroll 4-6" of solder from the roll, leaving it attached, don't cut it, touch the solder to the area almost directly above the hole, waiting for it to begin melting. Don't push the solder, or apply pressure, just kind of rest it against the raidiator. Once the radiator has reached the melting temperature of the solder, the solder will start flowing. And because this is a horizontal surface it's going to try to just drip off. Take your time and us a little solder at a time. "The bigger the glob the better the job" is not going to work.

Once you feel confident that you've plugged the hole, take a dremel tool and file down the excess

I do have a large soldering gun and solder. I don't have the flux, but can get some. But what about IO's point that soldering is a bad idea??

 

[elwood blues]

I do have a large soldering gun and solder. I don't have the flux, but can get some. But what about IO's point that soldering is a bad idea??

I have to respectfully disagree with IO on this one. I think this is something you can successfully repair yourself.

 

[MDJEEPER]

I have to respectfully disagree with IO on this one. I think this is something you can successfully repair yourself.

Any particular type of solder required?

 

[elwood blues]

I do agree with everything else IO says though, JB weld never works on a radiator. Bar's Leaks and Stop Leak tend to plug up your heater core. And there is a very slim posibility that it'll heal itself.

 

[elwood blues]

Something like this; lead free plumbing solder. Whatever you do, don't try to use elctrical solder, make sure you use plumbing solder.

 

[MDJEEPER]

Something like this; lead free plumbing solder. Whatever you do, don't try to use elctrical solder, make sure you use plumbing solder.

It's a good thing I asked since I would have otherwise used the All Purpose stuff that's mainly good for basic electrical (but not electronic) work!

 

[MDJEEPER]

While we're on this subject...If the repair does not work, what type of replacement radiator is recommended? Two row vs. three row? Metal tanks vs. plastic?? Copper vs. Aluminium???

Looking online there are too many choices, with prices ranging from about $140 to over $300!!

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

they sell this stuff called liquid aluminum at the autostores. I had a whole bunch of little likes in my radiator and I poured some of that stuff in and it seems to be holding I haven't found any wet spots since I used it and do not have any over heating issues.

 

[mylittlecj5]

with a small pin hole leak, why would you replace the entire radiator? I just had mine rebuilt by a professional shop.
He flushed it, soldered a leak in the lower tank, painted it and straightened out the fins so it looks like brand new.
Total out the door? about $52.00.

 

[elwood blues]

While we're on this subject...If the repair does not work, what type of replacement radiator is recommended? Two row vs. three row? Metal tanks vs. plastic?? Copper vs. Aluminium???

Looking online there are too many choices, with prices ranging from about $140 to over $300!!

It depends. What do you do with your CJ? Daily driver, weekend wheeler, mud racing, rock crawling? I would say stock replacement is good for daily driver and weekend wheeler. Unless you're running a big lift and big tires and DD it, would you need to upgrade to a bigger (3 row) radiator. And if you're mud running or rock crawling then you need to look in to all aluminum 3 core super sexy $300 plus radiator.

 

[MDJEEPER]

It depends. What do you do with your CJ? Daily driver, weekend wheeler, mud racing, rock crawling? I would say stock replacement is good for daily driver and weekend wheeler. Unless you're running a big lift and big tires and DD it, would you need to upgrade to a bigger (3 row) radiator. And if you're mud running or rock crawling then you need to look in to all aluminum 3 core super sexy $300 plus radiator.

So, based upon what your saying, I'm right that the stock radiator is a 2 row, correct?

 

[Old Dog]

with a small pin hole leak, why would you replace the entire radiator? I just had mine rebuilt by a professional shop.
He flushed it, soldered a leak in the lower tank, painted it and straightened out the fins so it looks like brand new.
Total out the door? about $52.00.

Thats what I would do.

 

[elwood blues]

So, based upon what your saying, I'm right that the stock radiator is a 2 row, correct?

Yes, I'm almost positive that the stock radiators where 2 row.

mylittlecj5 makes a very valid point, if this isn't anything you've ever tried before and are a little hesitant to try, find a local radiator repair shop and pay the $50(ish) to have it repaired. Beats shelling out $AMC 150 or more for a brand new one and usually the repair shops works is warrantied for some amount of time. Just more food for thought...

 

[Speedfreek]

they sell this stuff called liquid aluminum at the autostores. I had a whole bunch of little likes in my radiator and I poured some of that stuff in and it seems to be holding I haven't found any wet spots since I used it and do not have any over heating issues.

or Baars stop leak! or K&W block seal. Works everytime. Just pour it in the radiator.