Build Thread Jeep CJ for my daughters first car.
- Posts
- 12,365
- Featured
- 3
- Media
- 71
- Resources
- 2
- Thanks
- 278
- Location
- Rockwall,TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
-
Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
Build Thread Jeep CJ for my daughters first car.
- Thread starter BIG4D
- Start date Start date:
- Last post Last post:
BIG4D
Active Jeeper
- Posts
- 338
- Media
- 8
- Thanks
- 3
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
Started it for the first time in more than a year yesterday. Ran good, but may need to go through the carb.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Closing in on 2 weeks..... WHATS HAPPENING????? Where are the update pics????????????? We're getting impatient
Belizean
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
- Posts
- 6,916
- Featured
- 1
- Media
- 20
- Solutions
- 3
- Thanks
- 717
- Location
- New Orleans area
- Vehicle(s)
- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
BIG4D
Active Jeeper
- Posts
- 338
- Media
- 8
- Thanks
- 3
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
Okay. Sorry for the lul....gave up on the carter carb. Bought a Webber 32/36 kit had got it installed. Had issues with the linkage clearance with the brake booster like lots of others.
Flipped the bracket over and bent the bellcrank mount 180 degrees. This moves the bell rank closer to the carb and away from the booster. Had to shorten the rod between the bell rank and the throttle arm but works beautifully.
Been working on the hard top. It was in pretty rough shape. Something had fallen on it at one time and it had a large crack in it. Cleaned that up and fiberglassed it.
The bottom edge on one side had been beat up pretty bad and had to rebuild that.
“Painted” it with Duplicolor rattle can bed coating. Looks great! It took six cans! I painted the inside with rattle can white.
In its previous life the top had the bronze colored privacy glass. When I got it one side window and the rear hatch glass had been replaced with “regular” glass. They looked like they were cut windshields. They were laminated. Replaced the side glass with the correct bronze colored glass. Those of you thinking of replacing yours with this method, be aware, the side windows ARE NOT FLAT! They have a gentle curve to them and flat glass does not fit right and will leak.
The rear hatch has bad rust and had been fiberglassed to attempt a repair ( just like the floors had! Ugh!!) I got the glass out and peeled the fiberglass off. Then did the acid dip to remove the rust. I also cut the spot welds and separated the frame to get to the inside.
After the acid dip, there is NOTHING left. It’s beyond repair. Another Jeep part hits the metal bin. One less rear hatch in the world.
Found one on eBay with the bronze glass! Score!! These things are rarer than hens teeth! If you have a good one hold onto it! Protect it! Fill it with cavity wax to help keep the rust away!
Pictures coming.
Just for info. My daughter decided she does not want it! :-) We bought her a 79 square body short bed truck with a lift and several upgrades. She is happy and so am I!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Flipped the bracket over and bent the bellcrank mount 180 degrees. This moves the bell rank closer to the carb and away from the booster. Had to shorten the rod between the bell rank and the throttle arm but works beautifully.
Been working on the hard top. It was in pretty rough shape. Something had fallen on it at one time and it had a large crack in it. Cleaned that up and fiberglassed it.
The bottom edge on one side had been beat up pretty bad and had to rebuild that.
“Painted” it with Duplicolor rattle can bed coating. Looks great! It took six cans! I painted the inside with rattle can white.
In its previous life the top had the bronze colored privacy glass. When I got it one side window and the rear hatch glass had been replaced with “regular” glass. They looked like they were cut windshields. They were laminated. Replaced the side glass with the correct bronze colored glass. Those of you thinking of replacing yours with this method, be aware, the side windows ARE NOT FLAT! They have a gentle curve to them and flat glass does not fit right and will leak.
The rear hatch has bad rust and had been fiberglassed to attempt a repair ( just like the floors had! Ugh!!) I got the glass out and peeled the fiberglass off. Then did the acid dip to remove the rust. I also cut the spot welds and separated the frame to get to the inside.
After the acid dip, there is NOTHING left. It’s beyond repair. Another Jeep part hits the metal bin. One less rear hatch in the world.
Found one on eBay with the bronze glass! Score!! These things are rarer than hens teeth! If you have a good one hold onto it! Protect it! Fill it with cavity wax to help keep the rust away!
Pictures coming.
Just for info. My daughter decided she does not want it! :-) We bought her a 79 square body short bed truck with a lift and several upgrades. She is happy and so am I!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Belizean
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
- Posts
- 6,916
- Featured
- 1
- Media
- 20
- Solutions
- 3
- Thanks
- 717
- Location
- New Orleans area
- Vehicle(s)
- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
sounds like the trade works out for everyone
BIG4D
Active Jeeper
- Posts
- 338
- Media
- 8
- Thanks
- 3
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
Yes, yes it did! She is so proud of that old truck.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mdeluca
Full Time Jeeper
Got the hood on tonight, finally.
Beautiful...!!!
BIG4D
Active Jeeper
- Posts
- 338
- Media
- 8
- Thanks
- 3
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
Thank you! Once it sets up nice and hard, I’ll color sand and buff it. Should shine like a diamond in a goats ***!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just finished reading through your thread. I am about to restart my rebuild and I think I will take your comment about getting the whole side instead of trying to patch all the rust spots. Very nice build. Enjoy the 
out of it.
out of it.BIG4D
Active Jeeper
- Posts
- 338
- Media
- 8
- Thanks
- 3
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
Thank you! Yes, if yours is as bad as mine was, just replace the entire side. TAKE YOUR TIME WHEN FITTING IT! It will not fit perfectly when you get it.
Before cutting to old side off, make you a jig for your door opening. Mount it from the front of the door opening to where the striker is located. Once the side are cut, the tub tends to “sag” and close up the door openings. I learned the hard way, even with the tub on a jig!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Before cutting to old side off, make you a jig for your door opening. Mount it from the front of the door opening to where the striker is located. Once the side are cut, the tub tends to “sag” and close up the door openings. I learned the hard way, even with the tub on a jig!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
