Jeep won't run when key is in "run" position

[hatfield]

Need some help as I am at a loss here... Previously I installed a new wiring harness (Painless #10110) on my 75 CJ5 with little or no issues. However, a few days ago, my jeep stopped running when the key is in the "run" position. It will engage the starter and start when the key is turned to the start position, but will die immediately when the key is released to the run position.

I have replaced the ignition switch and the starter solenoid, but it still has the same problem. I'm pretty sure I wired the new ignition switch correctly, but just to make sure:

The painless harness has the following key for the ignition switch wires:

Red/white - ign stitch (coil ign)
Ylw - ignition switch (hot)
Red - Ign switch B+
2nd Red - ign switch B+
Lt Blu - ign switch start
Brown - ign switch (accessory)
Blk - ign switch (ground)

My new ignition switch has the following posts:
Starter
Battery
Ignition
Accesory

So what wire goes where? I've tried it in several configurations and I always have the same problem (no power comes off the solenoid "R" post when the key is in the run position, checked with multimeter). Any other ideas/ solutions welcome...

 

[harleydragon]

just find which wire is hot when in the run position and run it to the coil

 

[Jimbos76cj]

What ignition system are you running? If it's the stock dura spark have you checked the resistor? When cranking the motor the I post on the solenoid delivers 12 volts directly to the coil, that's why it will start and run while cranking. The red white wire coil b+ wire should be spliced with one wire going to the red wire of the ignition module, the other wire should go to the ballast resistor. The ignition bypass brown wire should go from the I post on the solenoid and be spliced back in to the red white wire if you wires it per the directions you have either burnt up the resistor wire or have a bad connection some place.

The only time power comes off the solenoid lugs is when the motor is cranking. The right lug bypasses the resistor and the left one is used to activate the solenoid.

I'm assuming your using a standard ford style solenoid.

I'd bet there's nothing wrong with the parts you replaced. To check see if the read wire going to the ignition module has 12v with the key in the on position.

Ps I gif the wire color from a painless install direction on the web if it's wrong.

 

[harleydragon]

yeah,my bad..if you have points then the run wire should go through the resister so the points will last longer

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Oh and double check the fuse..

 

[zilla]

I have a 75 Cj. Mine did that once. There is a ballast resistor on the firewall. It is broke and needs replaced. The engine will start when the starter cranks but dies when not cranking. The resistor is bypassed for starting.

 

[sgtallerheiligen]

I had this problem last week. I replaced the ICM on the driver's side fenderwell and it fixed the problem. I was having other issues that related to the ICM also.