JR broke more... Hubs

JR broke more... Hubs
JR74CJ5

JR74CJ5

Missing-Presumed Wheeling
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Location
Plumas Lake, CA, USA
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
So another thread here from me... :eek: I noticed my hub bolts had loosened from my last escapade to the mountains, and upon trying to tighten them up and planning to fine a locking washer supplier to get them to stay tighter, I found that on the passenger side, all but one bolt had sheared off in the hub.

This part (in case I'm naming it wrong)

images.ashx


The broken bolts are where I bolt the Warn lockouts to this (the 6 bolts)

So shes currently parked, again, because only 1 remains holding it on... (not very "safe" for people behind me, and I really don't want to loose a good warn locking hub... :cool:

So, as far as I can see my options are:

  1. Try to drill into the remnants of the bolts in each hole and get a ez-out to thread them out and buy some grade 8 bolts and use some lock tight.
  2. Buy a set of used ones for 100.00 and still need the new grade 8's and locktight.
  3. find locking tabs and regular replacement bolts somewhere for wither of the above two option (no luck so far)
  4. buy some e-bay or 4 wheel parts / morris 4x4 "Omix-ADA" new ones (Omix-ADA has left a sour taste in my mouth over the last products I ordered from them though...) Omix-Ada Part 16705.04 - Front Hub
  5. Or mod it with these: Jeep CJ5 Warn Warn Full Float Locking Hub - 1959-1983 Jeep CJ5 - Warn W3636655
spacer.gif

spacer.gif
Which appears to solve the problem completely and no need for new bolts. I think i seen the junk yard version of this, but am not opposed to spending the money on getting the whole kit shipped to my door. My Old warns could be gifted to my uncle to replace hims OEM plastic ones...

Which I assume would work great? and fit my Dana 30 front... (I would of course confirm the fitment...):cool:


So has anyone used the option 5? Thoughts?


Thoughts on which way would be best to go?


I believe the other side (drivers) also has 1 bolt broken if not just missing in it as well, so probably getting both any way I go...


:notworthy:

~ JR
 
JR74CJ5 said:
So another thread here from me... :eek: I noticed my hub bolts had loosened from my last escapade to the mountains, and upon trying to tighten them up and planning to fine a locking washer supplier to get them to stay tighter, I found that on the passenger side, all but one bolt had sheared off in the hub.

This part (in case I'm naming it wrong)

images.ashx


The broken bolts are where I bolt the Warn lockouts to this (the 6 bolts)

So shes currently parked, again, because only 1 remains holding it on... (not very "safe" for people behind me, and I really don't want to loose a good warn locking hub... :cool:

So, as far as I can see my options are:

  1. Try to drill into the remnants of the bolts in each hole and get a ez-out to thread them out and buy some grade 8 bolts and use some lock tight.
  2. Buy a set of used ones for 100.00 and still need the new grade 8's and locktight.
  3. find locking tabs and regular replacement bolts somewhere for wither of the above two option (no luck so far)
  4. buy some e-bay or 4 wheel parts / morris 4x4 "Omix-ADA" new ones (Omix-ADA has left a sour taste in my mouth over the last products I ordered from them though...) Omix-Ada Part 16705.04 - Front Hub
  5. Or mod it with these: Jeep CJ5 Warn Warn Full Float Locking Hub - 1959-1983 Jeep CJ5 - Warn W3636655
spacer.gif

spacer.gif
Which appears to solve the problem completely and no need for new bolts. I think i seen the junk yard version of this, but am not opposed to spending the money on getting the whole kit shipped to my door. My Old warns could be gifted to my uncle to replace hims OEM plastic ones...

Which I assume would work great? and fit my Dana 30 front... (I would of course confirm the fitment...):cool:


So has anyone used the option 5? Thoughts?


Thoughts on which way would be best to go?


I believe the other side (drivers) also has 1 bolt broken if not just missing in it as well, so probably getting both any way I go...


:notworthy:

~ JR
Click to expand...
Hi Bud!

:)Those should not have broken , but it seems they were probably coming loose over a period of time and failed...........retrieve the old broken parts if you can and chase your internal threads.........if you have to heli-coil some do so. Not really a question or need for grade 8's if it makes you feel better have at it. Don't over torque I think those are 5/16"x18 maybe 25 lbs use some blue locktight.
Make sure if your drilling those out get a good center punch mark in the center and start with a small drill so it does not wonder off into the hub. Some times if there loose enough you can take a small punch and drive them around a circle counter clockwise and they may come out that way, ...........take you time.
Option #5: I drill the bolt head or in my case I used a head drilled allen bolt and safety wired the hubs on..........either that or check them more frequently.
:D:D:D:D
 
Thats what i don't get... I checked them and tightened them right before this last trip to the rubicon. So did my Uncle.

By the time we got back, uncle had one hub fall off in the front driveway :eek: as he was backing in...

If I wouldn't have towed mine back, i would have lost it on the freeway for sure!

:confused::confused:

But I agree I need to use some locktite (assume the blue) and since i need new bolts was thinking grade 8, but you are right theres not much reason to have grade 8's, just like the thought of stronger...
 
On my CJ I have installed those internal hubs like you posted. It is an improvement without a doubt, but a very expensive one. On my last trip to the Rubicon at Buck Island Lake, I noticed my Mile Marker hubs at that time with only one grade 8 bolt holding them on, the rest with the heads busted off. I was fortunate enough to have a fellow club member with a left handed drill bit and drill motor, problem fixed. I had tightened them with red locktite as always before each trip.
 
JR74CJ5 said:
Thats what i don't get... I checked them and tightened them right before this last trip to the rubicon. So did my Uncle.

By the time we got back, uncle had one hub fall off in the front driveway :eek: as he was backing in...

If I wouldn't have towed mine back, i would have lost it on the freeway for sure!

:confused::confused:

:):)But I agree I need to use some locktite (assume the blue) and since i need new bolts was thinking grade 8, but you are right theres not much reason to have grade 8's, just like the thought of stronger...
Click to expand...


Lot of stress there and if your threads are getting worn out which they well , either heli coil all of them or I would safety wire them on.
That's a bad setup because the bolts a so long..............when you have a long bolt its hard to torque up over that length , that's why they come loose.
I still like the old Cutlass hubs with the short bolts.
:D:D:D:D
 
That first posting on that hub conversion kit is the same as the last as the last post you made, Just the price is quite different thats all. The full float rear hubs have a set screw on the switch to prevent them from unlocking.
 
Torxhead said:
That first posting on that hub conversion kit is the same as the last as the last post you made, Just the price is quite different thats all. The full float rear hubs have a set screw on the switch to prevent them from unlocking.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression the first was for a 44 with 30 spline and second a 30 front with 27 spline.

:confused::confused:

~ JR
 
Sasquach said:
JR, You are NOT a good student. You were part of this thread I see after digging it up http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/loose-hub-bolts-cure-11334/?highlight=loose+hub+bolts+cure but I'm same as you lot's of the time and choose to learn the hard way. :D
FYI...current update with the Stage 8's is NO MORE LOOSE HUB BOLTS and prior to these I could not go a mile with the front locked in without bolts backing out. :chug:
Click to expand...

:notworthy: you are correct... I am a knuckle head. But as said, I "did" tighten them down right before the trip, and had not noticed them loosening that quickly ever before, though did thing on Rubicon I had not before either :cool:

So Sasquach, any chance you can shoot up a link to the parts you ordered from summit? I couldn't find them (after I too realized I had been part of that thread and went looking...)

Was also looking into 73CJ's recommendation on the internal splines hubs... from a ford F-AMC 150 ?

But If I can get the current hubs to last me, I'd prefer to not be in trouble again for inflating the CC balance :D

:chug:

~ JR
 
JR, maybe it's just me but I would use the stage 8 over locktight. Remember you have to take these off to service the bearings and such.
(which I do quite often as we run through a lot of water here)
I used grade 8 bolts and regular lock washers on mine and haven't had any problems since. Maybe just luck on my part.
 
Sorry for the delay JR, was out testing the locks :D.
Stage 8 Manual Locking Hub Fasteners
Here's the part you can locate a vendor, same as you I did not find a current listing at Summit.
 
What do those locking fasteners look like JR?
 
coldair said:
What do those locking fasteners look like JR?
Click to expand...

offroadhub.jpg


Just ordered from Summit, a little worried about the 1-1/4" length... but we'll see...

:chug:

~ JR
 
How long are the stock bolts? Ive never put a tape on the stock ones to see
 
I just went out and checked my grade 8 bolts, they are 1.25 long. You should be good to go.
 
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