Knuckle plating

[Posi]

Clearance for H1’s



1/4” steel - toasted an angle grinder cutting these

 

[Old Dog]

I don't get it, help me understand what you're doing here.

 

[BajaEdition]

that is an amazing amount of work. What did it accomplish?

 

[Posi]

For those who run or plan to run a D-60 and have thoughts of using a double beadlock H1 rim you would need to shorten the arms to clear the rims.

The D-60 was not designed to run high steer arms doing so adds extra stress to the knuckle. This is why they sell beefed up knuckles to run high steer at over $500 a set.

I wasn’t going to spend that kind of money I already had the stock, so I decided to add some ½ plate for added strength. After cutting the plates I used a press and some round stock to bend the pieces.

Side note: Most D-60 knuckles will do just fine but they do and can fail plating is just another option.

I hope this helps.

 

[CJ007]

Those look great. I was watching this thread and almost made a smart arse (joking) comment about lowering the center of gravity , but I could see me doing that to save few bucks if I was doing a 60. Good stuff.

 

[Posi]

Thanks for the comment.

Yes, a bit heavier and better then the alternative.

(D60 not mine)

 

[BajaEdition]

I still do not get it
I have friends that run the Hammers 10 times a year and do not have that type of problem. Are you saying the D60 has a flaw with the knuckle, or that you seem to break them all the time?
I have run the Rubicon about 5 times on the same D27 and never done that.
and the same D27 has hit the Dusey 3 times. all that time on 31s with people telling me I was under tired and was going rip the axles from under my Jeep.

I tell you it seems to be a lot of work to reinforce. Maybe you need a bigger axle for your style of wheeling?

 

[Posi]

You shouldn’t be breaking a D-27 with 31 tires or a D-60 with under 40. However, when I ran 34” 9.5 on my D-25 I broke a knuckle and bell crank shaft. Running larger then 40 on a D-60 with high steer and hydro steer does put stress at the top of the knuckle.

As mentioned they sell beefed up D-60 knuckles for a reason. I guess I’m too cheap to spend that kind of money but I’ve never been afraid of hard work or trying new (to me) things. Plating my knuckles and keeping my D-60 works for me. I’m sorry you don’t get it.

Edit: yup, Ross steering, 34”, with a flat head needless to say a heavy workout.

 

[BajaEdition]

fell sorry you had to deal with Ross steering, most of us switch it out.
OK I see, what you are doing is running tires to big for your knuckles, so you have to do such

can I ask a question?
why do you need that big a tire?

 

[Posi]

Please, don’t feel sorry for me, I benefited from the upper body workout. Besides it was a transition Jeep.

Why do you I need that big a tire?

If your running 1 tons 37” tires are about the smallest you want to run or dragging the diffs becomes more of an issue. Another reason is wheel base and break over angle. If you have a long wheel base and small tires you won’t be getting over many obstacles. With a longer wheel base a larger tire increases your break over angle.

I wasn’t planning to run larger then 38” but I came across 4 - 42” TSL's mounted on 5 slot aluminum rims at a stupid price of $AMC 150 . At that time I decided to plate the knuckle for added strength.

Personally, I enjoyed plating the knuckle and as much fun as I have wheeling I have more fun working in the shop.

Hope this helps.

 

[BajaEdition]

ok, because I can see 37 ish tires on a CJ5 , but 42s, man that is either a <-BAD WORD-> measuring thing or just a good deal on tires
yes Fabing is fun, I do quite a bit here myself.
OK then I see the reason you did it, I was just confused why someone needed that big of a tire.
and I run light gear, usually a Dana 30 /44 combo, 33s are a nice size for them and you go where ever you want to.

 

[Posi]

ok, because I can see 37 ish tires on a CJ5 , but 42s, man that is either a pinkie measuring thing or just a good deal on tires

[FONT=&quot][/FONT] CJ5 ?

There is no mention in this thread of mounting 42” tires on a CJ5 . My sig has a CJ5 listed with Dana 44 axles and were talking D-60 here.

However, mounting 42” tires on an 81” (early) or 83” (intermediate/late) CJ5 would be unsound at best even if you got them free IMO. I wouldn’t entertain the thought of putting 37” tires on my CJ5 as well. The CJ5 in my sig runs 33” 12.5 on 44 axles. Personally I wouldn’t run anything larger then 34” on an 83” or under CJ.

A short wheel base Jeep with big tires doesn’t impress me I’m a bit long into the game to be swayed by peer pressure. When running larger tires wheel base and break over angle should be considered in IMO.

 

[BajaEdition]

Now you see why I was so confused?

 

[CJim7]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT] CJ5 ?

There is no mention in this thread of mounting 42” tires on a CJ5 . My sig has a CJ5 listed with Dana 44 axles and were talking D-60 here.

However, mounting 42” tires on an 81” (early) or 83” (intermediate/late) CJ5 would be unsound at best even if you got them free IMO. I wouldn’t entertain the thought of putting 37” tires on my CJ5 as well. The CJ5 in my sig runs 33” 12.5 on 44 axles. Personally I wouldn’t run anything larger then 34” on an 83” or under CJ.

A short wheel base Jeep with big tires doesn’t impress me I’m a bit long into the game to be swayed by peer pressure. When running larger tires wheel base and break over angle should be considered in IMO.

Totally agree. The only way that thought should even be entertained is by keeping full width and stretching the rear...which most guys do anyways even on CJ7 's, YJ's, TJ's etc. Cut-down axles and stock wheelbase with big tires is a no-no

I plan on stretching my wheelbase when I do my D60's. I'll be running 43" SX stickies.