Body Leaking Top

[Super8mm]

The top on my 80 CJ5 leaks at both doors at the top forward corner. There is a gap where the top meets the windshield frame. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it maybe some sort of gasket or maybe a metal plate? When ever it rains it fills the pockets at the bottom of the doors with water.

in one picture i was shining a flashlight from the inside

 

[Armyvet25]

Good luck, hopefully someone has an answer, I was never ever able to completely seal anything with a soft top older than 86

 

[TSB8C]

Starting question: Sure your windshield is set at the right angle? Can it be pulled back just a bit more by adjusting the bolts in the windshield brackets? Those brackets have slotted holes in them to allow for some adjustment of the windshield angle.



Also keep in mind that on a '75 and earlier, the windshield angle was different from newer models - the older being more upright. If the doors aren't for the correct year, they won't match up with the windshield angle correctly.

Now on to the doors. Your pics show more of a gap at the leading edge of the doors where it meets the windshield frame rather than sealing at the very top of the doors where they meet the frame for the top. This would be more of the door being installed at an angle (doors are not level front to back). Here's a shot of my door install instructions showing the adjustment points. If you have the adjustment points shown in the pic below (lower right image in the pic), then there's your place to focus. If not, then adjusting the lower hinge pin can help with straightening this issue (move the bottom rear of the door further up so the top front of the door is closer to the windshield frame). This adjustment is shown in the bottom left part of the pic below. Even my older CJ5 doors without the extra adjustment points had an adjustable lower hinge pin. Hopefully yours does too.

The top part of the doors can be bent inward to close the gap to the frame of the top, and your doors should have a rubber weatherstripping on them that seals against the frame of the top going across the door opening. Newer Bestop soft doors have extra adjustments in their frames for this. But older ones can still have the framing in the upper part of the doors bent inward as needed. On the other hand, it's a Jeep and in my experience I have never been able to completely seal out wind/rain with a soft top and soft doors. I have a zippered car cover made for a Jeep that I use when it's parked and there's a threat of rain so as to minimize water entry while parked. A nice trail cover can also serve this purpose. But of course when driving in rain, just keep your knee away from the door.

I also had to slightly bend the three vertical "rods" where the upper half of the door attaches to the lower half (the lower right pic). So by adjusting the collars on those rods, I got the left-right adjustment good (door level and tight to windshield frame); and then by bending them inward slightly, I got the top part of the upper door half to sit more snug against the frame of the top where the weatherstripping of the door seals against. It takes a heavy rain for water to come in mine, and usually only when driving and wind is making the door move/vibrate a bit.

 

[Super8mm]

Thanks for the information, I am still not sure how the windshield brackets work. When I put this top on (new) I had to loosen these all up and still had to use ratchet straps to gradually pull the windshield back just to get the top on. I can not find anything that describes if you pull the windshield up or move it down just what it does.

I did not know about the adjustment on the door frame. I loosened the nut but I can not get it to move, I even used chisels to separate as much as I could but so far I can get it to move. I am not sure what part slides.

 

[TSB8C]

Your first image showing the hinge pin is the adjustment. Loosening that nut then allows the hinge pin to slide side to side (in or out of the door) the width of that slotted hole. Sliding more out (to the right the way your pic shows) would raise up the top rear edge of the door, moving the leading edge closer to the windshield (what you want). With the door shut and facing it from the outside, you need the door to rotate slightly counter-clockwise. Is it rusted, or just stuck, or already as far as it can adjust?

 

[Super8mm]

Your first image showing the hinge pin is the adjustment. Loosening that nut then allows the hinge pin to slide side to side (in or out of the door) the width of that slotted hole.

I did find another bolt hidden under the material that folded around the frame. I loosened it and raised up on the back edge of the door and tightened the bolts and that helped a bit. Just don't tell my surgeon that or he will have me wearing my brace 24-7 again.

Now that the gap is down to about the size of a pea I think I will loosed the windshield clamps and use my ratchet straps again and see if I can pull the windshield back a bit more????

 

[TSB8C]

Glad you had some adjustment that could be made. Good luck with moving the windshield a bit more. Another consideration might by a solution from a YJ. There are inserts or frame pieces that bolt to the sides of the windshield frame to complete the door opening. They are readily available for $25-$30. Depends on your soft top and door style and frame. I have a YJ top on my CJ7 , bought new with complete frame and all, and it did not come with these and I don't have them on my rig. But an option you may look at to see if it would help. Here are some part #'s if you want to search a few: Rugged Ridge 12306.03 and 12306.04 (driver and passenger side), Crown 55176225 and 55176224, Omix 11033-07 (the pair). Here's a pic of how they go in, along with two pics of my door opening (door open and closed).