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Let's discuss Radiators

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Let's discuss Radiators
J

jafo

Old Time Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Blue Springs, Missouri
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ7. 304 V8 3 speed.
I'm currently running the original radiator. Of course it has a minor leak. It's the radiator core itself. So I am shopping for an economical dependable replacement. I have seen the aluminum radiators on fleabay for around 125 bucks. They are a direct replacement. Has anyone bought one of these? The stock metal replacements are all around 200 bucks. I'm leaning towards the aluminum. I have ran aluminum before but in street/strip cars and they worked great.

Which leads to the next. Aluminum vs stock replacement. In the off road world, what are the pros and cons to both? 2 or 3 row? I read somewhere that in the cj's you're better off with the 2 row over 3 row mainly for fit.

I have built systems with electeic fans. Anyone use these systems? What is your experience with them off roading?
 
LG, I avoid stop leak like the plague. I have had some bad experiences with stop leaks. I found some stuff called K-Seal. It's the only stop leak I will use. Problem with that is they have two sizes, I bought large bottle to seal a rear freeze plug on my truck and it partially plugged my heater core. Being it is a Dodge Ram, to change out that sucker is a major undertaking or north of 1k as the entire dash has to be removed to replace the core. So I am really leary of stop leak now. Would rather repair or replace.

Not many radiator shops left around. The only one close I knew of has closed. I would rather start over fresh with a new clean radiator. I got the cash, just wondering in an off road application, which radiator and what system to set up and their pros and cons.
 
You could just get your existing radiator recored. You could also upgrade to at least a 3 core type. But then, good luck with finding someone to do the work.
 
jafo said:
LG, I avoid stop leak like the plague. I have had some bad experiences with stop leaks. I found some stuff called K-Seal. It's the only stop leak I will use. Problem with that is they have two sizes, I bought large bottle to seal a rear freeze plug on my truck and it partially plugged my heater core. Being it is a Dodge Ram, to change out that sucker is a major undertaking or north of 1k as the entire dash has to be removed to replace the core. So I am really leary of stop leak now. Would rather repair or replace.

Not many radiator shops left around. The only one close I knew of has closed. I would rather start over fresh with a new clean radiator. I got the cash, just wondering in an off road application, which radiator and what system to set up and their pros and cons.
Click to expand...

Barsleaks is used in many fleet operations, and I have some in my radiator now, cause I'm to lazy to pull the radiator for a small 'weeper' leak.
Like I said-Just use a cup of it.........
The alum/plastic radiators, when they leak-Buy another........
Soldering is a dying skill that I'm glad I learned decades ago, when building radios and such.
LG
 
jafo said:
There are also some systems available that has the radiator and electric fan setups as a kit for pretty decent price also.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/182210626059
Click to expand...

That is not the correct radiator for OEM, AMC engines
The bottom outlet has to be on the left(drivers)side.
LG
 
LG, I think I posted the wrong one. But yeah your right, that one is the wrong one.

I can solder. I have that skill set. I just want to if anything have someone take it apart, check the core etc. Or I van just get a new one. NAPA's are also around 200. But there are correct aluminum ones on ebay between 130 and 160.

I'm not in a big hurry, but would like to get one sooner than later.
 
You want 1/8" dia, 60/40(lead/tin)solder with flux and a can of extra flux with a acid brush.
LPG torch works well here.
Just remove the top tank of the rad. and run wires and flat steel stock down each passage way. This is called a 'rod-out'.
Resolder the top tank and any other known leaks and pressure test for bubbles at 20psi.
Do not use acid core solder.
LG
 
I have had the cheap fleabay aluminum radiator for a few years. I had to ream the mounting holes to make it fit but has worked flawlessly.
 
Aluminum 2 core cools better than a 4 core copper/brass
I know everyone will disagree but it’s true anyway. The reason is heat transfer from the front 2 cores too the rear 2 and heat conductivity True an old school 4 core will cool better than an old school 2 core but that is because the older 2 core rads used small cores. Look at them and you will see that they are the same size as a 4 core unit just 2 less and all inline with each other.Newer aluminum 2 core units have very large cores and some stager them to further lessen heat transfer from the front cores to the rears.

Thermal conductivity comparison
Copper 406-430
Aluminum 353-390
Brass 109-125

The cheaper Ebay pieces do have mounting hole issues sometimes but I’ve never had one fail.
 
Just had to put a new radiator in Friday. Went with the H/D from Napa for $200, not too excited about Plastic/aluminum, but I know its whats out there now. Does seem to run a little cooler, at least by the OEM gauge< but running warm was never an issue before either. I will keep the old 3 row all metal one and get it rebuilt when I find a reputable shop. A good buddy is a diesel mechanic for Cummins and says theres one he knows of in Artesia ( that's in SoCal for those of you in Rio Linda ;)) We'll see how this new one does for a while though.
 
Not here. With no shroud mine runs cool, even in summer.
 
Hole-Any chance you could post a couple of pictures of this new radiator?
I have always ran a shroud on mine.
LG
 
I have tried with and without the shroud and do be a bit cooler with it, even without a clutch. Cooler in the long run for sure. Its time for me to get a new radiator also.
 
Torx, thats the one I got.
Lumpy, I'll try , but I haven't posted pics since PB took my pics hostage, so I'll see what I can figure out.
 
im going to give the ebay, all aluminum with dual electric fans a try for my crawler cj after the holidays are over and the grand kids have all their presents from santa :)
I will report back with fitment and any issues I run into
 
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