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Let's discuss Radiators

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Let's discuss Radiators
Well FWIW, I went to a local radiator shop and he said to convert my oem style 2 row radiator and convert to a HD 3 row it would cost $345. This would mean using the oem top and bottom. That is a California price also, so I am still looking.
 
Find another shop-:eek:
All he is doing is a 're-core'.
Ask this guy what he wants for a new radiator.......
LG
 
Torxhead said:
Well FWIW, I went to a local radiator shop and he said to convert my oem style 2 row radiator and convert to a HD 3 row it would cost $345. This would mean using the oem top and bottom. That is a California price also, so I am still looking.
Click to expand...

https://www.halls-engine.com/

Give Greg a call.
Jeep people.
 
Well got my solder and flux out again today. Come to find out, the top tank had a pin hole in the tank side. Wasn't corroded or weak spot. At some point something cravked it or put a hole in it. Never the less, got it fixes yesterday. Drove it, all looked good until this morning. Found one small drip on floor. Grrrr. Popped the hood and on the same side back corner engine side there was a leak along where the tank and core are soldered together. After two tries (repaired with radiator still in jeep) I think I finally have it. I had to solder about 4.5 inches of the seem and it came out great.

Lessons learned here. Clean, clean and clean again. I had to go back and hit it again as I missed a small spot around the curve on the end. Cleaned it real good, fluxed it, torched it and the solder flowed right in. Just missed it on the first go-round. The rest of the radiator seems sound.
 
Sounds good Jafo. I do have a CJ radiator question though. Does the heavy duty radiator that came with the later model CJs have a center fill spout or is it offset like my standard duty radiator is? On my front grill there is a clearance made for an offset spout so that is what I seem to need and would like a three core replacement.
 
Back 20-30 years ago we had 4 or 5 radiator shops within 5 miles of home. They have disappeared now and I can't think of any around.
 
Belizean said:
Back 20-30 years ago we had 4 or 5 radiator shops within 5 miles of home. They have disappeared now and I can't think of any around.
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Same here. We had a couple really top shelf shops years ago...... went looking a couple months back to get mine boiled out and pressure tested, and found out the closest shop is over an hour away, and they quoted me almost AMC 150 to just boil Andy paint. Repairs would be extra. He said the EPA added so many hoops and hurdles on the chemicals most just closed the doors.
 
Torx,
I haven't been around Jeeps long enough to know. All I can say is that my '79 has a center fill. It's also a 3 row radiator. Whether it is the actual stock radiator that came with the Jeep, who knows. I'm basically the second owner of this Jeep or technically the 3rd owner. It made a brief stop with the original owners daughter who I bought it from. So I'm not even sure if my radiator is original. All I can say is it is a 3 row, and a center fill.

I found that someone put two thick washers on the top two mounting bolts. I have no idea why. Until I do, I put them back for now. I am a little concerned as when doing that it moves the radiator closer to the fan.
 
Belizean,
I hear ya. I had a radiator shop 5 minutes from the house. I can't find one now. I'm sure there is someone around, just haven't found them. I do need to try the actual phone book instead of falling back on the internet all the time.
 
I get it you want to replace it with a brand new unit .I do that alot on parts that could be repaired it's a comfort think I figure .I haven't used an aluminum radiator I guess it would be fine . I'm going to buy a new oem replacement just because of fit issues and such plus in Ohio salt covered winter roads will eat up aluminum fins in the radiator here. An OEM well maintained will last a very long time
 
Yeah, I was looking at price comparisons between oem and aftermarket aluminum. The after markets depending on supplier was much cheaper, but may not be as durable. I don't know. I just look at it differently now after this thread. I can repair my oem radiator compared to not with an aftermarket. The corrosion thing is another reason as you stated.
 
Another thing if you had to repair an aluminum radiator it may be a lot more difficult
 
Belizean said:
Back 20-30 years ago we had 4 or 5 radiator shops within 5 miles of home. They have disappeared now and I can't think of any around.
Click to expand...

Same with my area too.

My "quality" brass and copper rad leaked. Called a rad repair shop. Dude has been repairing rads for over 30 years. He said he could fix it no problem on the phone. Took it down there and from across the shop, I mean 30 feet away, this guy says the core was bad. And of course he couldn't fix it. He talked about brazing in metal patches if needed on the phone to repair leaks. And doing a custom $750 rad for a 57 Chevy.

Now running these Chinese Oreilly's aluminum ones. Boy I feel like it will blow any day on me. Runs cooler than the brass/copper one, not concerned about that. My Jeep never even gets half way on the temp gauge. Barely into the green with a verified, boiled on the stove, 195F thermostat. Not running a shroud either. And now going/gone through winter, engine never would warm up driving 16 miles to work. I want my copper/brass one back lol.

slomo
 
Slomo.
You really need to check your dash's GND connection and temp sensor then.
FWIW-I run a hard wire 10ga lead from my dash panel to the battery GND.
You don't 'braze' brass. You use lead core solder.
Respectfully,
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Slomo.
You really need to check your dash's GND connection and temp sensor then.
FWIW-I run a hard wire 10ga lead from my dash panel to the battery GND.
You don't 'braze' brass. You use lead core solder.
Respectfully,
LG
Click to expand...

Good advice. I already did the big 4 upgrade with 1/0 real copper battery cable. Think I have an 8ga strap from firewall to - battery post.

slomo
 
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