Lift shackles

Lift shackles
seanmnew

seanmnew

Jeeper
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Location
Colorado Springs
Vehicle(s)
86 CJ7 & 06 Liberty Sport
Ok, so I have an 86 CJ7 (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ), it was lifted before i bought it and do not know the lift size, it can cleanly fit 33's (what i have on now) without ever rubbing, my brother owned it before me and when he bought it from the guy it had 35's and had no issues driving... so im thinking 4"?

I have been thinking of doing a 1" or so shackle lift (old shackles, need to replace them anyways)... anyone have any opinion on this? Should I do more? less? none? types of shackles?
 
You asked for an opinion... Extended / lift shackles are bad - they usually screw up the caster of the front end and cause excessive wandering....

Avoid unless you can re-weld the perches on your diff...
 
CJ said:
You asked for an opinion... Extended / lift shackles are bad - they usually screw up the caster of the front end and cause excessive wandering....

Avoid unless you can re-weld the perches on your diff...
Click to expand...


CJ knows what he's talking about. You can 1" without problems but you start having problems the higher you go.
 
Nothing wrong with lift shackles. Lots of crazy people use them. It's simply another way to lift your vehicle, rather than spending all that $$ to do it right. They look awesome, all hanging out in front like a pair of ladders got stuck under your jeep, and the wandering they cause is like an adventure every time you take the old CJ out for a spin ! Their easy to find, most any trailer park will have a wrecked jeep (usually due to the shackle lift) under a tarp that has them on it, and you can prolly get them for a good price. I like em! not on MY Jeep, but on someone elses, I get a kick out of them.
 
CW is a little sick so he forgot to add the /sarcasm tag to his post... :)
 
i had a set on my jeep when i got it. they are gone now and i dont want them back. anything over 40mph and i felt my life was in danger. i now have a pro comp lift and it is much safer.
 
CJ said:
CW is a little sick so he forgot to add the /sarcasm tag to his post... :)
Click to expand...


:confused: Sarcastic???? Me???? I'm deeply hurt.
 
alright, so here is a link to one of my other threads http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/can-someone-tell-me-how-much-lift-they-think-i-have-2509/

I would like to fit 35's... does anyone have any recommendations for a way to fit them? without SOA? Im not against the SOA, just dont feel like using all that effort right now. I am not against replacing my springs/shocks/shackles... the lift springs i have now is a little squeaky and just old... it wouldnt break my heart to see something else (newer) under there... I am not looking for a $1000 lift kit, sadly my military budget does not allow for it! So... anyone with some ideas?
 
it can cleanly fit 33's (what i have on now) without ever rubbing,
Click to expand...
Fom your first post....

If you can fit 33's - why not just add a body lift and then maybe a wheel spacer. I'm not a fan of either one of those options but you said that your budget is restricted.

I'm also a little confused why you would really need a 35" tire over a 33" anyway - but that is really another discussion...
 
I figure 35's will lift my diff another inch, give me that extra bit of clearance (have you ever been wheeling in the rockies?) and for the MTR's that i want its on average only about 5-10 dollars more for each tire... so what not go with it? I think that if i just get an extra inch i should be good, not sure about the body lift... if i did a flat fender on the front and went with the TJ flares in the rear, do you think they would clear fine without lift? my brother had 35's on it when he bought it and said he had no issues, but did use 4x4 much
 
on my last CJ I used some free YJ shackles and got 1/2 or 3/4" lift can't remember which but still got a little lift for free and some shops may have some laying around...Just a thought.
 
I have to differ with you guys on the shackle thing, but then I am only talking to those willing to do a bit of work om their rigs.
I will cut off old, and reweld new spring perches onto a jeep. I like to get around 3 or 4 inches of lift on my cjs, run 33s and be able to articulate with them. So I like to do 2 inch springs and long shackles, that way I can get a softer rate spring than a 4 inch lift. I get those long 4 inch over shackles.
Now seeing as I am running mainly cj5s, and short early ones. I need to clock the rear axle up a bit to help the driveline geometry after a lift so I but 2 sets of perches from the metal supply store. (about 4 dollars apiece compared to jeep shop prices) One to clock the rear axle and one to return the front axle back to stock positioning. I really do not like big degree wedges as they take up way to much of the centering stud on the springs and cause a short amount into the perch.
But then that is something I like. As a lot of you know by now I pitter and putter around with these things liking to get things to my standards, which can be a little higher than most manufacturers. I feel they have to compete with others and will scrimp out on a step or two so they are in the same price range as others. What I mean is if supplying 6 degree wedges instead of 2 degree works, it makes the install on their kit cheaper than hacing the perches cut off and rewelded.
Just my thoughts.
 
BajaEdition said:
I have to differ with you guys on teh shackle thing, but then I am only talking to those willing to do a bit of work om their rigs.
I will cut off old, and reweld new spring perches onto a jeep. I like to get around 3 inches of lift on my cjs, run 33s and be able to articulate with them. So I like to do 2 inch springs and long shackles, that way I can get a softer rate spring than a 4 inch lift. I get those long 4 inch over shackles.
Now seeing as I am runing mainly cj5s, and short early ones. I need to clock the rear axle up a bit to help the driveline geometry after a lift so I but 2 sets of perches from the metal supply store. (about 4 dollars apiece compared to jeep shop prices) One to clock the rear axle and one to return the front axle back to stock positioning. I really do not like big degree wedges as they take up way to much of the centering stud on the springs and cause a short amount into the perch.
But then that is something I like. As a lot of you know by now I pitter and putter around with these things likeing to get things to my standards, which can be a little higher than most manufacturers. I feel they have to compete with others and will scrimp out on a step or two so they are in the same price range as others. What I mean is if supplying 6 degree wedges instead of 2 degree works, it makes the install on their kit cheaper than hacing the perches cut off and rewelded.
Just my thoughts.
Click to expand...

You went into a lot more detail then I did (about 10000 times more :) ), but you spot on about changing the perches!

CJ said:
You asked for an opinion... Extended / lift shackles are bad - they usually screw up the caster of the front end and cause excessive wandering....

Avoid unless you can re-weld the perches on your diff...
Click to expand...
 
BajaEdition said:
I have to differ with you guys on the shackle thing, but then I am only talking to those willing to do a bit of work om their rigs.
I will cut off old, and reweld new spring perches onto a jeep. I like to get around 3 or 4 inches of lift on my cjs, run 33s and be able to articulate with them. So I like to do 2 inch springs and long shackles, that way I can get a softer rate spring than a 4 inch lift. I get those long 4 inch over shackles.
Now seeing as I am running mainly cj5s, and short early ones. I need to clock the rear axle up a bit to help the driveline geometry after a lift so I but 2 sets of perches from the metal supply store. (about 4 dollars apiece compared to jeep shop prices) One to clock the rear axle and one to return the front axle back to stock positioning. I really do not like big degree wedges as they take up way to much of the centering stud on the springs and cause a short amount into the perch.
But then that is something I like. As a lot of you know by now I pitter and putter around with these things liking to get things to my standards, which can be a little higher than most manufacturers. I feel they have to compete with others and will scrimp out on a step or two so they are in the same price range as others. What I mean is if supplying 6 degree wedges instead of 2 degree works, it makes the install on their kit cheaper than hacing the perches cut off and rewelded.
Just my thoughts.
Click to expand...


Re ingeneering, and buying and installing an inherently flawed product are apples and oranges though. I would bet good money that the people buying lift shackles are simply bolting on what they believe will be quick cheap bad <-BAD WORD-> looking lift so they can run oversized tires. And end up with a wandering mess and steering geometry all jacked up. I wish they would just do away with the damn things. :mad:
 
I just hate them hanging low catching on every rock you come to. They look like :dung: too.
If they are only an inch or so longer it's not so bad.
 
Old Dog said:
I just hate them hanging low catching on every rock you come to. They look like :dung: too.
If they are only an inch or so longer it's not so bad.
Click to expand...


I sure as hell agree with that. Many times I have been wheeling with people that have them, They get caught on logs, hook rocks stumps and roots like It's their job, look foolish, and at the end of the day are bent all to hell. From time to time, they'll torque over just enough to break the hanger, just to make things interesting. An inch? Hard to even tell their longer than stock, but damn a shackle lift!
 
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