LOCATE Rock Tite Metal Fabrication, makers of NICE HD steering bracket mount
MN CJ7
Senior Jeeper
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- Location
- MN
- Vehicle(s)
- 1978 CJ7
Silver paint with black hard top on 33" radials & eagle alumium rims. Good looking ride and have done lots of work to make it look and run great.
Stock equipment is 258 carb, power brakes, power steering, hard top & hard doors (per vehicle gross weight) tilt steering wheel, big brake package with large rotars & drums, T18 Trans with low 6.4 granny gear, Dana 20 transfer, Dana 30 front axle, Dana 44HD rear axle with 3.73 gears. True Trac ft & rear.
I was around jeeps in the 70's and drove a 1973 Jeep Truck. My family had 4 jeeps at the time. We also joined a jeep club back then too. So about 6 years ago looked for a Jeep CJ and found the vehicle above.
Re: Sam's Offroad mfgs nice Heavy Duty Steering Bracket Mount, made in USA
Dear PaRenegade,
Thanks for your note..... good questions.... can tell your mind works well and I bet your CJ runs pretty well also.... Thanks for posting the pics of the MORE and Rusties mount also that helped me in my evaluation.... I went back and looked at a few of the products and instructions to see if I can help further. Quadratech has the MORE inst on .pdf so I went back to read them again and look at the products...
First Question,
SAMs....The thin spacer is 1/4" and the thick one is 3/4" and are both very thick wall and had a gold anit rust coating on all parts.
Second question...
The Sam's Offroad steering bracket inst. say to mount under the cross member and mark drill the 1/2" hole.... more or less...This will max the strenght of the new steering bracket...
BUT.... when you said MOST HD Steering Brackets have the optional third hole that can be added to the CJ front Cross Member???? I went to look again at the other products... I think Sams and MORE are the only ones that have this from what I see.... but not all the lit pics show the top of bracket......
MORE IMPORTANT.... The MORE Instructions said this/below and will help you since you have the MORE product... This is for the forward mount one but think should be true for both bracket styles, or quick measurement / worth a call if need..
MORE INST.
STEP 2: [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]For extra strength the Steering Box Bracket has been designed to use a third bracket-to-crossmember bolt. This hole must be drilled in the crossmember using the bracket as a template. To do this, set the bracket on TOP of the crossmember with the third hole toward the driver side frame rail. ([/FONT][/FONT]See Figure 4 [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]for location of third hole in the bracket). Align the two existing holes and loosely thread two of the 7/16 bolts in the bracket from the bottom. Now with the bracket held in position by the two bolts, mark the location for the third hole. Remove the bracket, center-punch the location and drill with a ½" drill. Deburr the hole top and bottom. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]So..... The holes have a isoscelies triangle, two sides equal, so the stock holes to optional hole are equal distant.... So if most likely true for the std bracket vs 1.25" Forward bracket inst above. The MORE can be marked from bottom or top.... So ck distance for your two triangle legs, put on top of cross member, add two 7/16 bolts/nuts and snug up. I would use hole to slowy drill the 3rd hole or at least start the hole...Drill Bit suggested is 1/2" and is 1/6" larger than the fasteners to there is some play.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]I called SAMs for you and me to see if similar to More Triangle Isosclies because my inst say to mark from bottom.... MORE is a copy of the Sams bracket by the way...... so I thougt would be the same and Sams could update their instructions.... Sams holes are 1/4" different from stock hole to optional hole...... I suggested that Sams move the hole 1/8" and then can update the inst to say mark from the top or bottom and use the isoscelies triangle.... They liked the idea also.....[/FONT][/FONT]
i had a hard time spelling the isoscelies spell ck blew me off.....hehe
Suggestions for hole drilling.....
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]If your optional hole is "equal distance from the stock holes in bracket.... mark from top using the bracket since you have MORE.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]IF NOT equal distance.... tape paper on top of bracket mark all holes and tape on top of the CJ cross member and center punch the optional hole. I would also cross hatch the optional hole to help mark on center of hole.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]WE think a like PaRenegade..... if the inst said to put on top and mark/drill from top I would have more likely to use the third hole.... I did not want to drill extra holes but I just got done fitting all holes for my winch plate, side plates, etc. My side plates are some old 1/4" plate and bolt to 3/8 winch plate.... I do not thinnk there will be much frame flex for my use..... time will tell?[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]By the way the center hole of three on the frame rail was the one off for me also... One fold of frame was off by .050" on rear part of hole.... took just a few seconds to mod with some Snap On dremel like bits for my air die grinder.....anyone that does any fab work.... i love those metal dremel bits...[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]I hope this help you![/FONT]
[/FONT]
What is the thickness of the 2 smaller spacers they supplied?
Did they give any directions or a template on how to locate the third hole on the crossmember?
Most? of these brackets offer that additional hole but fail to tell you how to get the hole in the right location. There is zero room to mark it or drill it from the bottom where it mounts. A template made using the other two holes to triangulate the new hole is about the only way I can figure out how to locate it. You'd think they'd help out with adding this additional hole.
Dear PaRenegade,
Thanks for your note..... good questions.... can tell your mind works well and I bet your CJ runs pretty well also.... Thanks for posting the pics of the MORE and Rusties mount also that helped me in my evaluation.... I went back and looked at a few of the products and instructions to see if I can help further. Quadratech has the MORE inst on .pdf so I went back to read them again and look at the products...
First Question,
SAMs....The thin spacer is 1/4" and the thick one is 3/4" and are both very thick wall and had a gold anit rust coating on all parts.
Second question...
The Sam's Offroad steering bracket inst. say to mount under the cross member and mark drill the 1/2" hole.... more or less...This will max the strenght of the new steering bracket...
BUT.... when you said MOST HD Steering Brackets have the optional third hole that can be added to the CJ front Cross Member???? I went to look again at the other products... I think Sams and MORE are the only ones that have this from what I see.... but not all the lit pics show the top of bracket......
MORE IMPORTANT.... The MORE Instructions said this/below and will help you since you have the MORE product... This is for the forward mount one but think should be true for both bracket styles, or quick measurement / worth a call if need..
MORE INST.
STEP 2: [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]For extra strength the Steering Box Bracket has been designed to use a third bracket-to-crossmember bolt. This hole must be drilled in the crossmember using the bracket as a template. To do this, set the bracket on TOP of the crossmember with the third hole toward the driver side frame rail. ([/FONT][/FONT]See Figure 4 [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]for location of third hole in the bracket). Align the two existing holes and loosely thread two of the 7/16 bolts in the bracket from the bottom. Now with the bracket held in position by the two bolts, mark the location for the third hole. Remove the bracket, center-punch the location and drill with a ½" drill. Deburr the hole top and bottom. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]So..... The holes have a isoscelies triangle, two sides equal, so the stock holes to optional hole are equal distant.... So if most likely true for the std bracket vs 1.25" Forward bracket inst above. The MORE can be marked from bottom or top.... So ck distance for your two triangle legs, put on top of cross member, add two 7/16 bolts/nuts and snug up. I would use hole to slowy drill the 3rd hole or at least start the hole...Drill Bit suggested is 1/2" and is 1/6" larger than the fasteners to there is some play.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]I called SAMs for you and me to see if similar to More Triangle Isosclies because my inst say to mark from bottom.... MORE is a copy of the Sams bracket by the way...... so I thougt would be the same and Sams could update their instructions.... Sams holes are 1/4" different from stock hole to optional hole...... I suggested that Sams move the hole 1/8" and then can update the inst to say mark from the top or bottom and use the isoscelies triangle.... They liked the idea also.....[/FONT][/FONT]
i had a hard time spelling the isoscelies spell ck blew me off.....hehe
Suggestions for hole drilling.....
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]If your optional hole is "equal distance from the stock holes in bracket.... mark from top using the bracket since you have MORE.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]IF NOT equal distance.... tape paper on top of bracket mark all holes and tape on top of the CJ cross member and center punch the optional hole. I would also cross hatch the optional hole to help mark on center of hole.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]WE think a like PaRenegade..... if the inst said to put on top and mark/drill from top I would have more likely to use the third hole.... I did not want to drill extra holes but I just got done fitting all holes for my winch plate, side plates, etc. My side plates are some old 1/4" plate and bolt to 3/8 winch plate.... I do not thinnk there will be much frame flex for my use..... time will tell?[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]By the way the center hole of three on the frame rail was the one off for me also... One fold of frame was off by .050" on rear part of hole.... took just a few seconds to mod with some Snap On dremel like bits for my air die grinder.....anyone that does any fab work.... i love those metal dremel bits...[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]I hope this help you![/FONT]
[/FONT]