lockright install, lil help?

lockright install, lil help?
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BurntMoney

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Location
Memphis
Vehicle(s)
84 CJ7 4.2 engine
Got a 84 CJ7 AMC20 with 3.31 gears that Im getting ready to install a lock-right on. Got a few questions.

First is It appears the gas tank will have to be dropped to even be able to get the diff cover off. Is this right?

2nd question is can the cross-pin be driven out without pulling the carrier? I have been reading some posts and it seems ring gear size can be a determining factor on this.

3rd Ive also read the lock-right install can be done with sliding out only 1 of the 1 piece axles. Is this right?

Any and all help is appreciated here.:)
 
only help i have is yes you can take the cover off without taking out the gas tank. i jacked mine up and put the jack stands under the frame so the axle drops down for more room.
 
BurntMoney said:
Got a 84 CJ7 AMC20 with 3.31 gears that Im getting ready to install a lock-right on. Got a few questions.

First is It appears the gas tank will have to be dropped to even be able to get the diff cover off. Is this right?

2nd question is can the cross-pin be driven out without pulling the carrier? I have been reading some posts and it seems ring gear size can be a determining factor on this.

3rd Ive also read the lock-right install can be done with sliding out only 1 of the 1 piece axles. Is this right?

Any and all help is appreciated here.:)
Click to expand...


While living in Memphis I installed one n my AMC20 with one piece axles, very easy, jack the back of the Jeep up let the back axle hang down, pop the cover off remove the bolt that holds the cross pin in, start tapping the pin out once it starts out rotate your carrier around until the cross shaft is pointing back towards you and pull it the rest of the way out, you will need the axles loose (not out all the way)so that you can install the components of the new locker. It took me an hour or 2 to install mine years ago, no special tools needed, and no additives in the gear oil either. :chug: its a lot of fun off road
 
Awesome!! Thanks for the input. Locker scheduled for delivery today. I had installed the front one on a Dana 30 a few weeks ago and liked it so much I just had to do the back one. Psyched about hitting the Sardis lake bottoms this weekend.
 
OK, got the locker in, diff cover still off. I noticed what seems to be excess slack when I work the driveshaft yoke back and forth. How much if any slack should be there?
 
up and down play in the pinion or in and out play in the pinion? you should have a little slack when turning it back and forth (slack before the wheels turn)

up and down play with the yoke is bad
 
A little up and down, not so much that way more so noticing the pinion gear and the ring gear dont stay completely engaged, the yoke might be moving in and out less than 1/4 as the gear teeth pull in deeper together. not slipping past the ring gear or anything like that, but without tension on the yoke the gears kind of back off one another.

If there is up and down or in and out play with the pinion would that likely be a bad pinion bearing, incorrect shimming or a combination of both?

I have been trail riding with it every weekend for months and have never heard any odd noises from it. I also dont notice any odd wear marks on the gears. I usually dont push it very hard either. I just want to make sure while I still have it apart.
 
sounds like the pinion is a bit loose. its probably not wrong shimming because it would make noise and cause weird wear. if the pinion bearing was wore out it would make weird noise. i would just run it and keep an eye on it. maybe check to make sure it isnt getting worse every couple days or so.
 
BurntMoney said:
A little up and down, not so much that way more so noticing the pinion gear and the ring gear dont stay completely engaged, the yoke might be moving in and out less than 1/4 as the gear teeth pull in deeper together. not slipping past the ring gear or anything like that, but without tension on the yoke the gears kind of back off one another.

If there is up and down or in and out play with the pinion would that likely be a bad pinion bearing, incorrect shimming or a combination of both?

I have been trail riding with it every weekend for months and have never heard any odd noises from it. I also dont notice any odd wear marks on the gears. I usually dont push it very hard either. I just want to make sure while I still have it apart.
Click to expand...

That is bad...replace the pinion bearings and pinion seal. you should NOT have any fore and aft movement or up and down of the pinion/yoke. rotation of the pinion/yoke is ok. On the AMC20 axle replacing the bearings is also easy if you have a press and bearing puller and can be completed in a few short hours. just pull the carrier out pull of the yoke press the bearing off the pinion install new bearing in rear with new seal put pinion back in torque to spec, put carier back in torque to spec slide axles back in and close it up. There is a link on this site to the 1982 Factory Service Manual. Use it very helpful. If you replace the pinion bearings check your wear pattern on the ring gear it should still be just fine :chug:
 
Ok so I pulled the carrier and ring gear out and removed the yoke and pinion seal. Book says to tap the pinion shaft on through the outer bearing or use a air hammer with a blunt end to drive it through.

Wont go, Ive tried both of those instructions and then moved on to a 4lb hammer and wood block over the pinion shaft. Still wont budge. Any thoughts or suggestions on this? Am I missing something thats not in either book (CJ builders Manual, and Haynes) or on the exploded view diagram?
 
So yes that would be the exact same spot where I chipped a tooth off my pinion :mad: as mne would not move either. my 20/20 hind sight says to have a buddy catch the pinion before it hits the ground like mine did while you are using a brass punch with your 4 pound hammer :chug:
 
Awesome, will make sue that doesn't happen.Will also post results of the brass punch and hammer attempt.
 
Got it out, seems it needed a sharp blow with a blunt punch. Seems the wood block was dampening the blow too much. Anyway it came on out.

Interesting discovery in a shop manual I have, it says tighten the bearing cap bolts to 87 INCH LBS, well that cant be right, must be a typo. Must mean 87 ft lbs. The book does call for 55ft lbs on the bearing caps for the Dana 30 in front. Same book also says 17-25 in lbs for the pinion nut though. Im thinking I need a new book.
 
haha thats funny thanks Old Dog, thats the same one I have :)

Check out page 869 for the bearing cap error :)
 
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