Misc. Looking at Different CJ's to buy- advice on issues sought.

[Baddarryl]

Hi all. As you know I am starting to look at different CJ7 's and thought I might post questions about different ones in one post. Im still mulling that 77 Renegade about in my mind and using as a bench mark.

So:
1. How hard is it to do a 4 or 6 cyl swap to a V8 in an 80-86 CJ? Does the whole drive line need to be upgraded? I am pretty sure I have decided I want a 4 speed V8. I am finding most of those years have the 6 or 4 (which the 4 I won't even consider) also quite a few out there with swaps already done. I would consider a 6, but haven't driven one yet. How do they compare to a stock AMC 304 all other things being equal? I drove a AMC 304 with 33's on it today that I felt should have more power, but the only one I have to compare it to is 77 above and that one was obviously 'built'. Going to drive another V8 4 speed tomorrow for comparison.

2. A stated by owner clicking sound similar to a cv joint in the right front while in reverse only? 1984 4 speed, AMC 304 . Mint condition $25000. Going to look at tomorrow.

3. A very nice 1981 Laredo 6 cyl 4 speed with simple leaks. Engine has about 180k miles and getting tired as stated by owner. Steering box leaking, possible valve cover or rear seal, seal on out put of Transfer Case . None of these really worry me as the engine will probably need to be rebuilt soon anyway if it is the seal. This may qualify for the swap. Garage kept and beautiful $14,000

4. 1985 Laredo AMC 304 4 speed absolutely beautiful. All options, tilt steering, leather, factory A/C etc. 33's for tires. Low miles at a dealer that only sells high grade muscle and classic cars. Possible rear main seal or pan gasket leaking, e brake release light stays on, fuel gauge out, clock not working, AC needs attention/possible conversion as its not blowing cold, but comes on. Only other issue is looks like after an market fuel tank interferes with removal of rear differential cover for maintenance. May require replacement tank. Obvious v8 swap due to year. Otherwise flawless. All little stuff. Waiting on price. Looked at and drive today.

5. I am starting to think I shouldn't get something that I would be afraid to tear up. Maybe a less pretty but solid rig. The Renegade I first posted out qualifies as that with some upgrades of course.


I am sure I'll have more questions. Thanks.

 

[TSB8C]

Depending your planned use(s), the inline 6 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l is a good engine. But if I were doing a V8 swap, I would do a SBC or LS rather than the AMC304. Easy swap, readily available parts/accessories/options, great power. You will most likely need changes to the drive line due to differences in overall length (tranny or Transfer Case adaptor, etc). And obviously changes in exhaust.

Depending on tire size, Transmission final gear ratio, and axle gearing, not uncommon to seem sluggish with larger tires. When I went with 35" tires and a Transmission with Overdrive , I regeared the axles due to low torque and seemingly weak power (even though the engine is 420HP).

I'd be leery to pay $25K for one I need to work on. Could be simple bearing or u-joint or hub lock issue. I see good looking CJ's with a Chevy 350 V8, tilt column, all gauges working for $24K. Here's one (it does have a soft top and doors also):

Your #4 above (Laredo with all the options) might be better depending on the price you get back.

The '81 with a few leaks and 180K miles for $14K should be a bit cheaper. This one in FL is $16K with an AMC360 in it, 4-wheel disc brakes and a fiberglass body:

 

[Baddarryl]

Depending on tire size, Transmission final gear ratio, and axle gearing, not uncommon to s

Yeah I was wondering about that. The one with 35's had way more torque than the one with the 33's. The Renegade with 35's even had a 3 speed vs 4 on the Laredo . I was entering an on ramp with the nice 4 speed Laredo at about 25 mph and 3rd gear really struggled to get it going. I think it maybe gearing as it easily did 55 or so comfortably in 4th once up to speed.

Also the Renegade has a brand new not even broken in engine so it's definitely tight. Not sure of miles on Laredo .

 

[Baddarryl]

Here is another I'm considering. It's an 81 CJ7 . AMC 304 4 speed. Fiberglass tub, stated new gas tank and fuel lines, freshly tuned up and runs good. Could have brake booster issues according to him, but all else stated as good. Some rust on frame that I'll need to checkout in person. I'm planning to go look on Thursday. He's asking $9000, but stated
on his own that he is negociable.

 

[TSB8C]

I see a few frame issues, missing skid plate under the gas tank and makeshift straps holding it in, body mounts look pretty rough, looks like it's also missing the front sway bar and connects. Still have the 2-piece axles in that rear AMC20 ? If it runs/drives OK and lights and gauges still work, maybe $7,500 IMO.

 

[Baddarryl]

Also this one. Stated no rust or any issues other than leaking steering box. Says motor is AMC 150 ,000 miles and smoking that likely needs a rebuild, but there is a built long block that goes with it. 6 Cyl and not 8. 176 tranny and Dana 20 and 30 differential. $8000.

 

[boney]

What is your plan with these? They both look like heavily modified project off-roaders to me. If that's what you're after, then here you are. If you're looking for a reliable daily, then this is probably not it.

With these, you are buying someone else's project and need to keep that in mind. In my opinion, they are not worth the asking price... just because they spent money on them, doesn't mean they're worth it. I'd want to know if the axles have been re-geared to match the size of the tires. Whether they're still running two-piece axles. A compression test on the "smoking" one. (A spare block to me, is worth about $100- because I will have it rebuilt- if it's any good- while I drive my smoker around.)

All-in-all, from my perspective, these are high priced projects that you will likely spend thousands on to either get them to your standard, repair all the things not done right, or both.

Figure out your budget. Spend a few minutes getting the details for these things and find out how much the "fixes" may cost you. Then offer the difference, since you'll have to spend that money to have what you want.

My honest opinion- the first one is an easy pass. Walk away. The second one I'd have a closer look at. It may be all cosmetic and no powertrain, but at least it looks like someone cared about it.

 

[Baddarryl]

What is your plan with these? They both look like heavily modified project off-roaders to me. If that's what you're after, then here you are. If you're looking for a reliable daily, then this is probably not it.

With these, you are buying someone else's project and need to keep that in mind. In my opinion, they are not worth the asking price... just because they spent money on them, doesn't mean they're worth it. I'd want to know if the axles have been re-geared to match the size of the tires. Whether they're still running two-piece axles. A compression test on the "smoking" one. (A spare block to me, is worth about $100- because I will have it rebuilt- if it's any good- while I drive my smoker around.)

All-in-all, from my perspective, these are high priced projects that you will likely spend thousands on to either get them to your standard, repair all the things not done right, or both.

Figure out your budget. Spend a few minutes getting the details for these things and find out how much the "fixes" may cost you. Then offer the difference, since you'll have to spend that money to have what you want.

My honest opinion- the first one is an easy pass. Walk away. The second one I'd have a closer look at. It may be all cosmetic and no powertrain, but at least it looks like someone cared about it.

Thanks for your input boney. My plan is a trail, woods, beach vehicle primarily that will get driven around town only occasionally really. Needs to be roadworthy to get to local trails and the beach, but I will trailer if going up to Uwharrie or further for sure. My budget is about $15K at this point. Like I said I am more interested in mechanically sound rather than a spot free Jeep. I spoke with the owner of the last one I posted (the one with the long block) and he seemed to care like you said. I asked him for more pictures, but he said it was under a cover and covered from the snow they had last week. It is 2 1/2 hours away so I will want more pics before making a trip like that. He did state fervently that it was rust free and a solid vehicle other than what he told me about the motor and the steering box. Good point about the gearing though. Ill as about that. The drivetrain doesn't worry me as much as getting a solid rust free body and frame.