Looking for advice - flywheel and clutch.

[CMack]

At another point where I need some advice and experience.

I have the engine out and the bell housing off. The block is ready to go to the machine shop.

Questions: how does the pressure plate and flywheel come off? Here is where things are now.



Do I need a puller to get the flywheel off, or will it slide off?

There are some teeth with some gouges in them. Should this flywheel be replaced?


What should I look for in the pressure plate and throwout bearing in terms of wear, replace or still serviceable?

When it comes to reinstall, does the flywheel need to be aligned a certain or does it not affect the timing?

And finally, does anyone know the torque specs on the flywheel and the pressure plate?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mriplaybass]

You remove the pressure plate by evenly backing out the bolts holding it on a little at a time until there is no longer pressure pushing against the bolts. The pressure plate can then be removed. Leave one bolt near the top for last so that the pressure plate does not fall on your foot. The flywheel comes of just by removing the bolts. Again, leave a bolt near the top for last so that the flywheel does not fall. The starter ring gear can be driven off with a hammer and a punch and a new one driven back on the same way. Don't try to save the old parts, it's not worth it. Just get the whole kit that includes the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Make sure you install the new pilot bearing! Torque on the flywheel bolts should be 35 to 41 ft.lbs.

 

[mtnwhlr]

What should I look for in the pressure plate and throwout bearing in terms of wear, replace or still serviceable?

When it comes to reinstall, does the flywheel need to be aligned a certain or does it not affect the timing?

^^x2 and you should replace the throwout bearing and pressure plate it will come with the kit as stated above. And no the flywheel as nothing to do with your timing.

 

[Torxhead]

CMack, also get the flywheel resurfaced. At reinstall, you could also check the flywheel for flatness and alignment with a dial indicator. The flywheel should have been balanced at assembly.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The bolt pattern is not concentric on the FW. Good idea to center punch a couple of 'line-up' marks on the FW to the C'shaft. To help with quick reinstall.
Do not reuse your FW bolts. Torque those new bolts to spec with red loctite.
Make sure your new FW bolts are not any longer than your OEM bolts were.
I use LUK clutches from NAPA Auto Parts.
Might want to go ahead and have a new starter ring gear installed when you have the FW re-surfaced.
Good luck-
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

To install the ring gear. Put the flywheel in the freezer and the new ring gear in your oven, you can use a torch. Heat the ring up to your oven max of about 550* for a half hour or so. Before heating look at your ring. You will see a beveled edge on one side. That goes on the inside or first if you will. If the right hot and cold combination is achieved the ring will simply fall on the fly wheel. If not you might have to tap on it with a hammer, but you won't have to POUND on it. Light taps will do. I use a block of wood to drive the hot ring on. Yep, simple pressure holds everything together.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

"Put the flywheel in the freezer " Good god-How big a freezer do you have?


LG

 

[Hedgehog]

My freezer is fairly big and yes I had to be careful not to damage my freezer putting it in. Fact is Rob at Willys Works told me how to put the ring on and it worked like a charm so I endorse the procedure. I imagine you could just heat up the ring with a torch, but I didn't want to heat the ring unevenly or over heat it in one place.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Most shops the resurface your FW. Will install a starter ring gear for a fair price, and it's on them to get it 'rite'.
Use'n a torch for this is not a good idea. As you can not get an 'even' heat for expansion.
LG

 

[mriplaybass]

Definitely do not try heating it with a torch! It's been so many years since I had to do this, (last one was on a 1940s IHC tractor) I forgot about using heat/cold to make things go easier installing the ring gear.
Recently, I used this method to set up several differentials. Bearings set on top of the radiant heater in our shop, locker put inside of a plastic bag and set out in the snow when it was around 0° outside. Bearings pressed on a whole lot easier this way.

 

[CMack]

In a million years, I never would have thought of a freezer, oven combination. But it makes a lot of sense. Now I'll just wait for a day the wife is out of town.

 

[CJim7]

I've found you don't even need to put the flywheel in the freezer. I've done this several times and only needed to heat up the ring gear in the oven. That was always enough and it would tap right on to the flywheel.

 

[Hedgehog]

In the winter the freezer probably does not make sense, after all it's probably already plenty cold enough. Funny the first time I tried this the oven was set at 500*, the ring wouldn't go on easily, so the oven was reset to 550*, max. temp. After 1/2 an hour the ring went right on. You can find plenty of youtube videos where the mechanic uses a torch to heat the ring. If you kept the torch moving it probably would work just as well, but over heating is easily avoided with an oven.

Lumpy - Changing the ring gear really is easy to do. Also for a novice doing it him/her self feels like you've accomplished something. An old Air Force aircraft mechanic I know pulls his ring gears every time he does a clutch service and turns the gear over reusing it, like rotating his tires. He swears it reduced wear on the gear. I think he's nuts, but doing it makes him happy.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

HH-I think he's nutz to.
The ring gear is directional with the bevel towards the front, for the starter's drive gear to better engage.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

You will find no disagreement with me, but he has done it for many years. I did look at my ring gear and they were perpendicular to the surface.

 

[JacksonLakeJeep]

What did you end up doing with that flywheel?

At another point where I need some advice and experience.

I have the engine out and the bell housing off. The block is ready to go to the machine shop.

Questions: how does the pressure plate and flywheel come off? Here is where things are now.



Do I need a puller to get the flywheel off, or will it slide off?

There are some teeth with some gouges in them. Should this flywheel be replaced?
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What should I look for in the pressure plate and throwout bearing in terms of wear, replace or still serviceable?

When it comes to reinstall, does the flywheel need to be aligned a certain or does it not affect the timing?

And finally, does anyone know the torque specs on the flywheel and the pressure plate?

Thanks in advance.