Maint. Problems/questions

Maint. Problems/questions

cdlongjr

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Newark, De
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1983 Jeep CJ-5, 1987 Wrangler YJ, 1974 J-10
Besides the brakes, I have oil leaking from the front of the rear drive axle. I'm assuming that I can fix this problem by replacing the seal. I also have oil on the transfer case. I'm assuming that I shoul clean the transfer case w/ degreaser & drive her some to find out where the oil is oming from? How do you guys grease the u joints? I can't get a standard gun on any of them. Also, I hav a manual, but can't figure out how to plumb the canister on the passengr's side of the inner fender to the fitting on the side of the air filter housing.
 
you can use a needle tip adapter on your grease gun (available at all parts houses) to grease the U-joints.
Be careful when greasing the CJ, only pump enough grease into the fitting to fill and replace the old grease. If any starts flowing out of the seals, you put too much in.

where exactly is the oil on your front driveshaft? you will need to determine if its coming from the shaft *(which doesn't leak oil, rather it slings grease, meaning its been over filled), the U-joint (same thing), or the transfer case rear seal. Check your manual for proper rear seal replacement procedures.
 
Besides the brakes, I have oil leaking from the front of the rear drive axle. I'm assuming that I can fix this problem by replacing the seal. I also have oil on the transfer case. I'm assuming that I shoul clean the transfer case w/ degreaser & drive her some to find out where the oil is oming from? How do you guys grease the u joints? I can't get a standard gun on any of them. Also, I hav a manual, but can't figure out how to plumb the canister on the passengr's side of the inner fender to the fitting on the side of the air filter housing.


Let's see, The rear axle leak is prolly a pinion gear seal. You can drop the rear driveshaft, pull the big nut on the pinion yolk then use a puller to pop the yolk off. The seal is right there and easy to change, then just reverse procedure. The U- joint greasing problem could be because someone was'nt paying attention when they replaced the joint and put it in backwards :mad: That puts the zirk fitting at an angle that makes it about impossible to get to. My rule of thumb is, If a shaft comes out, a new u joint goes in! Maybe a good time to swap yours. T-case leak is probably just another yolk seal. PITA to change depending on which one, but really not too hard to do. I'm clueless about emissions, but I'm willing to bet CJ can hook you up with a schematic. Rumour has it that he even has them for the space shuttle!:eek:
 
This? Or do you need an actual picture?

attachment.php
 
An actual photo would be better. Remember the "old eyes"? All that little stuff starts to run together.

The oil coming out of the front "nose" on the rear carrier, (where the yoke goes into the carrier), is actually coming out the bottom & running down the bottom side of the carrier.
 
An actual photo would be better. Remember the "old eyes"? All that little stuff starts to run together.

The oil coming out of the front "nose" on the rear carrier, (where the yoke goes into the carrier), is actually coming out the bottom & running down the bottom side of the carrier.
I'll see if I can get a photo for ya. I can't promise you though... :)

As for the oil leak from the dif. Just as CW said, it's the pinion seal. You'll need to pull the drive shaft, loosen and remove the pinion nut - you'll need one hell of a cheater bar or an impact wrench, if your lucky the yoke will slide off - you may need to tap it with a hammer or use a puller, remove seal - be careful not to nick the housing, tap in the new seal, slide back on yoke, tighten nut to the correct spec (very damn tight), then reattach drive shaft.

Technically your supposed to check pinion bearing preload with an inch pound torque wrench but since your not pulling the carrier or the axles you should be OK with just torquing it to specs... :)
 
Let's see, The rear axle leak is prolly a pinion gear seal. You can drop the rear driveshaft, pull the big nut on the pinion yolk then use a puller to pop the yolk off. The seal is right there and easy to change, then just reverse procedure. The U- joint greasing problem could be because someone was'nt paying attention when they replaced the joint and put it in backwards :mad: That puts the zirk fitting at an angle that makes it about impossible to get to. My rule of thumb is, If a shaft comes out, a new u joint goes in! Maybe a good time to swap yours. T-case leak is probably just another yolk seal. PITA to change depending on which one, but really not too hard to do. I'm clueless about emissions, but I'm willing to bet CJ can hook you up with a schematic. Rumour has it that he even has them for the space shuttle!:eek:


Hay my wife and I call my mother PITA and my mother thinks its funny:D:chug:
 
First of all try greasing the U-joints a bit. Chk to it that it doesn't overflow.
I think that leak may be due to a hole from the front of carrier. Maybe its coming out from the bottom and running out thru the bottom right side.. Who knows?
 
Besides the brakes, I have oil leaking from the front of the rear drive axle. I'm assuming that I can fix this problem by replacing the seal. I also have oil on the transfer case. I'm assuming that I shoul clean the transfer case w/ degreaser & drive her some to find out where the oil is oming from? How do you guys grease the u joints? I can't get a standard gun on any of them. Also, I hav a manual, but can't figure out how to plumb the canister on the passengr's side of the inner fender to the fitting on the side of the air filter housing.

Maybe this pic will help- it's hard to get a picture of the complete hose system.


WeberVacuumHookup2.jpg


The Rear end leak is most likely the yoke seal as mentioned. I dealt with that twice until I finally did what I knew I should have done after the first try. Look at the yokes surface that contacts the seal when you remove it and see if there is a worn groove in it. A slight groove may be acceptable but if it's worn enough, the new seal will leak soon. Also if the surface where the groove is, is pitted, that will wear out the seal in a short time. The pitting is usually where moisture and grit have accumulated. Contaminated oil in the rear end should be replaced too. A new yoke and seal and a gear oil change would really make for a long lasting repair. It is good to place some RTV sealant on the end of the splines and the thread area before installing the yoke- oil can seep out there too.
Make sure the bolts are tight between the transfer case and tranny for that leak. If it's leaking from the rear bearing cone, it's best to remove that cone and replace the bearings and seals too if you find it has too much end play or any play and check that yoke too. I also made the mistake of just replacing the outer cone seal and it leaked again after only 100 miles, so I took it apart and found out I had a bad bearing.
This was an easy 2 hr job.
This is the cone I'm referring to;
IMG_3858.png

The innards- bearings, spacers etc;

IMG_3871.png
 
Tried to grease the yokes w/ needle adapter. Front driveshaft yoke took a couple pumps, then nothing. The rest of the yokes took nothing. I used a small screwdriver to make sure the ball moved after I cleaned the fittings. Both yokes on the front axle have no grease fittings. I have yokes in my 10 wheelers that hve the grease fittings in one of the end caps. Anyone know if those type are available for our jeeps?
 
Thanks CJ. Should I also replace the u joints on the front axle with these. Mine are sealed, not greasable.
 
I wouldn't just change out the front U-Joints because they don't have grease fittings. They are most likely sealed HD solid U-Joints. If they are worn out or loose, I would but just not for the heck of it. The front drive shaft is only used when your in 4WD anyway... :) Thats probably only a small percentage of your time.
 

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