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Major malfunction

Major malfunction

BowHunt3r

Jeeper
Posts
64
Thanks
0
Location
South Colton, NY
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ7
258 cu in (4.2 L)
Tremec T-150, 3 speed
Transfer Case-
Stock
Wide Track Axles
Manual Brakes
Fiberglass Tub
American Racing wheels, BFG Mud Terrain T/A
The other day I changed my oil. 5 quarts
Castrol and a small bottle of brake in oil for the zinc.
2 day later it starts ticking like crazy I get it home and find I am out of oil.
I may have gone 30 miles.
I put another 5 quarts in and it is ticking all the time down by the oil pan.and I have a bad oil leak.
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2e660a15f766c7fcae215a4bbdf2bd48.jpg


Any ideas on what's going on. Rear main seal??
It did I just loose a bearing?


Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk
 
Well, for starters, it looks like a rear main seal. That ticking could just be a drained lifter. Since you have to pull the pan anyway, might want to check the bearings anyway
 
Thanks for sending that in, that does not sound good. You could use a stethescope to try and find out just where it is coming from.
 
I would pull the rocker cover and rotate the engine until each pair of rockers are at the closed valve position. Then see if there is any slop between the rocker and the push rod. If there is, Torx is probably right. However, in my experience, a collapsed lifter makes a constant tick, tick, tick, sound. What I am hearing from your video sounds different, possibly bearing or wrist pin.
 
Thanks guys,

I am not a mechanic, but I am guessing that the motor has to come out to do any work on the bottom end? Any Idea what this may cost?
 
Did you notice a change in your idle and cruising oil pressure before and after the oil change? Several quarts in 30 miles is a huge leak, would almost have to be a constant stream.

I haven't done it on a jeep, but you may be able to lift and crib/block the engine up enough to drop the oil pan enough to sneak it out or at least inspect the bottom end. Pull the fan shroud and watch the back of the valve cover against the firewall when pushing the engine up. Would be much faster/easier/cheaper than pulling the engine.
 
I noticed nothing out of the ordinary. Its my daily driver so I drove it to work today. Oil pressure is fine, temp is fine and besides that knocking it is running good. The noise goes from a knock at idle to just a tick when picking up speed.
I was reading at some Jeep forums that the main seals can be replaced with the engine still in without much trouble. if its a bearing I hope they can be changed without pulling it.

the day I changed the oil I also changed the Transmission oil. I did not put my skid plate back on, Does the skid plate help hold the trany in place? could the trany sag and put stress on the shaft causing the seal to fail??
 
I have pulled the pan on several 258s with it still in the jeep. Works just fine! It's really a lot easier then it first seems. Sorry to hear about your bad luck tho!
 
I am going to have to take it in, the seals I may be able to do but the bearings, if that is even what it is, is above me.
 
the day I changed the oil I also changed the Transmission oil. I did not put my skid plate back on, Does the skid plate help hold the trany in place? could the trany sag and put stress on the shaft causing the seal to fail??
The answer to this is yes the Transmission mount is on the skid plate without it it's going to be hanging down and throw everything out of wack.
 
Thank you.
I had a feeling that was what had happened. I called a local mechanic who told me it would be ok to leave it off. I had planned to put a new clutch in it.
 
The answer to this is yes the Transmission mount is on the skid plate without it it's going to be hanging down and throw everything out of wack.


X2 mtnwhlr ...your Transmission mount is what keeps your whole drive terrain from twisting also. With out it everything would be hanging on your engine bellhousing. Also stressing your two engine mounts.
 
I would check the back of the valve cover where it meets the cyl head to see if it's 'wet' with oil.
What weight oil did you use?:confused: If you want more lead-Add a blue bottle of STP.
How many miles on this engine?
LG
 
Thank you.
I had a feeling that was what had happened. I called a local mechanic who told me it would be ok to leave it off. I had planned to put a new clutch in it.
Never call that mechanic again.
 
:agree: And he ain't no 'mechanic'. :rolleyes:

LG
 
I would check the back of the valve cover where it meets the cyl head to see if it's 'wet' with oil.
What weight oil did you use?:confused: If you want more lead-Add a blue bottle of STP.
How many miles on this engine?
LG

It is a little wet, I have a new valve cover gasket to put on. I put in 5-30 and a small bottle of engine brake in oil.
It was rebuilt by the previous owner(deceased) , between 9-10 thousand miles on it I was told. bored 30 over, new pistons, rods, rings, bearings.
 
IMO-5W30 is just to 'lite' for these engines.
Try some 15W40 or what I run which is 20W50.
Bet most of the oil you're see'n at the pan came down from the valve cover.
Put a V8 size can of Restore in the oil. See if that calms things down some. It'll take about 500 miles of driving to fully take effect.
LG
 
IMO-5W30 is just to 'lite' for these engines.
Try some 15W40 or what I run which is 20W50.
Bet most of the oil you're see'n at the pan came down from the valve cover.
Put a V8 size can of Restore in the oil. See if that calms things down some. It'll take about 500 miles of driving to fully take effect.
LG

I went with 5-30 because it is below zero most of the winter here.
I will pick up some 20w50 and a new filter tonight, and the Restore. Can I put in 5 quarts of oil and a big can of restore??
 

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